Eliminate yellowing of beet leaves

Even with such an unpretentious vegetable as beets, a nuisance can happen - early yellowing of the tops will lead to the formation of small root crops and disappointment during harvesting. Knowing the reasons leading to the problem will help to avoid it.

Lack of moisture

If beets have early yellowing of the tops, carefully examine the leaves, root crops, pay attention to the weather and soil condition.

Insufficient watering is often the reason for yellowing of beet leaves. If it's too hot outside, and the plant is moistened less than 2 to 3 times a week, the leaves of the vegetable will look lethargic and quickly begin to turn yellow.

On hot days, moisten the beets only with warm water in the morning or evening.

The sun is too bright

Another reason for the unpleasant phenomenon can be too bright the sun, as a result of which the foliage withers and turns yellow. If the bed with beets is located in a sunny place, then in the midday period the plants should be slightly shaded.

This cause of yellowing of beet leaves is most often a problem in the southern regions.

Too bright sun and lack of moisture cause yellowing of beet leaves

Lack of food

It turns out that for all its unpretentiousness, beets are very demanding on nutrients.


If in the initial period of development, accompanied by an increased growth of the vegetative mass, the vegetable experiences a lack of nitrogen, then this will manifest itself in grinding and yellowing of the tops. The yellowing will begin with veins and then cover the entire leaf. To avoid this, immediately after thinning the beet bed, feed the plant with a solution of liquid mullein (1:10) or infusion of bird droppings (1:15). Or use a mixture of mineral fertilizers - 15 g of superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate per 15 liters of water. This amount is enough for 5 m2.

Subsequent after nitrogen fertilization should include only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.


In addition to nitrogen, beets need iron. Lack of this element causes chlorosis of the leaves. In order to eliminate the lack of iron in plant tissues as soon as possible, you need to spray the tops of beets with iron sulfate - 10 g of substance per 10 liters of water.


Leaves without magnesium become chlorotic, yellow-red, as if burnt. The working solution for foliar treatment consists of 15 g of magnesium sulfate and 10 liters of water.


The lack of this substance is manifested by yellowing of the interveinal space. Then the yellowed areas die off. To fill the deficit, you need to add 5 to 10 g of manganese sulfate per 1 m to the soil2 or spray the beets with a solution of 2–5 g of the same preparation per 1 liter of water.

To avoid a shortage of necessary elements, before sowing seeds, you should increase the nutritional value of the soil by introducing organic matter or mineral fertilizers for digging. During growth, beets are fed with mullein infusion, ash. Agronomists advise when growing crops to use a complex fertilizer "Bordeaux" containing trace elements in a form accessible to plants.

The lack of nutrients is reflected in the leaves of the beet

High soil acidity

Too acidic soil, with pH values ​​below 6, disrupts the absorption of nutrients, including nitrogen... Soil acidity is easy to determine with litmus test paper. Also, look for weeds. On acidic soils will grow:

  • horse sorrel;
  • plantain; field horsetail;
  • heather;
  • sedge.

To deoxidize the soil, you need to add fluff lime or dolomite flour. The rate is determined depending on the type of soil and the degree of acidity.

Table - the rate of lime application to the soil

Soil typeApplication rate (g / m2)
pHup to 4.54,6 - 5,05,1 - 5,55,6 - 6,06,1 - 6,5
Sandy380 - 550250 - 340200 and lessNo need to depositNo need to deposit
Sandy loam400 - 650260 - 350230 and lessNo need to depositNo need to deposit
Light loamy530 - 950410 - 550340 - 400250 - 300No need to deposit
Medium loamy580 - 1150460 - 660340 - 470250 - 300No need to deposit
Heavy loamy730 - 1350560 - 800440 - 520290 - 410250 and less
Clayey830 - 1650610 - 820490 - 550340 - 450300 and less


Yellowing of the leaves can indicate possible diseases, especially when the color change is accompanied by other symptoms - spotting, twisting of the leaf plate, its drying out.

  1. Rust. On the leaves of the beet, yellowish spots and round small (from 2 to 6 mm) rusty dots appear. On the underside of the plate, light brown convex areas are formed, in which the spores of the fungus mature. To combat the fungus, the following drugs are used:
    • 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, if the disease has just manifested itself;
    • 3% suspension of 90% copper oxychloride;
    • Abacus Ultra;
    • Tsineb.

      Fungal spores spread very quickly through the beet bed.

  2. Alternaria. The disease manifests itself on the old lower leaves of the beet. At first, yellow spots form on them, which soon turn brown. Then the affected areas darken and become covered with a black coating of spores. If the weather is dry and hot, the leaves quickly curl, the diseased tissue dies off. There are several drugs to treat the disease:
    • copper sulfate solution - 20 g per 10 l of water + 20 g of soap shavings (at the first symptoms);
    • Abiga Peak;
    • Bravo;
    • Quadris;
    • Ridomil Gold MC.

      Alternaria most often affects a vegetable that is weakened by insects or has mechanical damage

  3. Jaundice. A viral disease manifests itself first at the tips of young leaves. They change color - brighten and turn yellow. Then the veins die off, and after that the leaf becomes dense and fragile. Reddish brown spots may form on older leaves. Unfortunately, there is no cure for this disease. The affected plant must be immediately dug up and destroyed.

    A diseased plant must be removed and destroyed immediately to stop the spread of the virus.


Pests can provoke yellowing of the leaves.

Beet aphid

A large colony is located on the inside of the leaf. The active suction of the vital juices of the plant leads to yellowing and wilting of the leaves. To combat aphids, you need to attract ladybirds or ordinary lacewings to the garden bed.

To attract ladybirds you need:

  • plant their favorite plants:
    • umbrella crops such as dill;
    • sweet clover;
    • dandelion;
    • buckwheat;
    • yarrow.
  • use pheromone baits;
  • do not use insecticides that destroy harmful, and at the same time beneficial insects, for example, Actellik;
  • equip houses for wintering. You can buy them or make them yourself;

The lacewing can be attracted by early flowering shrubs, since the insect needs a large amount of pollen after wintering.

The diet of the lacewing includes not only aphids, but also scale insects, spider mites and caterpillars

Beet miner fly

The yellowing of the tops is caused not by the fly itself, but by its larvae. Hatching into the light, they begin to actively feed on the pulp of the leaf, gnawing holes in it. As a result, necrotic areas are formed, which crumble. The leaf turns yellow, dries up and dies off.

In addition to the listed pests, the following insects can cause yellowing of the tops:

  • beet flea;
  • beet shields;
  • beet crumb.

What other insects threaten beets - photo gallery

To rid the beets of harmful insects, different chemicals are used:

  • Karbofos;
  • Borey Neo;
  • Break.

So that the leaves of the beet do not turn yellow, you just need to follow the simple rules of care - water and feed the plant on time. But don't forget about disease and pest prevention as well.

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Why do the leaves of zamioculcas turn yellow

Zamioculcas is an unpretentious indoor plant popular among amateur flower growers, which is often used by professional designers for landscaping various premises. High decorativeness, undemanding conditions of keeping, resistance to pests, diseases and external factors - these are the main features and advantages of this culture, belonging to the Aroid family. For all its merits, the flower requires attention and care from its owners. You cannot miss the signal for help from the plant, you need to eliminate the problem that has appeared in time. Yellowed leaves can be one of these signals. The reasons for their yellowing are varied, but there are the most basic ones. An urgent need to find out the truth so that the plant can be saved.

Beet leaves turn yellow: why and what to do?

As we learned earlier, beet leaves reflect their well-being. If the "patient" is overcome by pests and diseases, tops becomes stained if the beets lack nutrients such as potassium, sodium and phosphorus, the foliage turns red. An equally common symptom of poor health is yellow color of the leaves. Why beet leaves turn yellow and what to do summer residents in such cases - we will figure it out today.

1. Lack of moisture in the soil

The first and most understandable reason why the leaves turned yellow is that the beets do not have enough water. Rare watering or scant rainfall leads to the fact that the leaves grow small, lethargic, yellow. Beets are a great water bread, so regular watering, especially at the stage of root crops formation, is a must. How much to water? A whole article on our website is devoted to this topic - "Beets: watering and feeding".

2. Lack of nutrients and trace elements

The beetroot reacts differently to the lack of a certain nutrient in the soil: in one case, the tops turn yellow, in the other they turn red, in the third they become stained. An interesting diagram from the Atlas of Field Crop Diseases:

  • lack of nitrogen (leaves acquire a pale green, chlorotic color, become thicker and coarser, yellowing begins from the veins and adjacent tissues, die off, plant growth slows down),
  • lack of magnesium (outer leaves become chlorotic, as if burnt, yellow-red),
  • lack of iron (chlorosis on the lower leaves, their tips turn yellow and begin to die off).

Chlorosis is characterized by yellowing of leaves due to weak formation or destruction of chlorophyll. The causes of the disease can be: lack of nitrogen, manganese, magnesium, iron, poor soil aeration, viral diseases, as well as damage and diseases of the roots.

Thus, yellow leaves in beets are a signal of poor nutrition. What to do? Appropriate feeding and watering are required. You can also read about this by following the link above.

Rust: round, orange spots appear on beet leaves. Diameter - 2-6 mm. Then, in the places of dislocation of spots on the upper side of the leaf, small light brown dots are formed, and on the lower side, cup-shaped containers of spores. After 10-12 days (usually in June), small yellowish-brown pustules appear on the leaves - uredinia, rarely located in concentric circles. After a while, they also appear on the petioles, stems and even on the glomeruli of seeds. Rust appears in late spring or early summer on young leaves. In plants affected by rust, photosynthesis is disturbed, premature death of leaves, a decrease in yield and sugar content.

What to do: For root crops collected from fields where there was rust, cut off the sprouts at their base, remove the thin root tail so that the cut diameter is 8-10 mm. The decayed tails are cut to healthy tissue, the cut is disinfected with a putty made of clay and a 1% solution of ferrous sulfate. All plant residues are collected and buried to a depth of at least 0.5 m. After harvesting, the fields are sprayed with suspensions of one of the preparations: 80% cineb (3.2-4 kg / ha), 90% copper oxychloride (3, 2-4), 80% polycarbacin (2.4-3.2) or 80% cuprozan (2.4-3.2 kg / ha). If peronospora, rust and cercosporosis are detected, the crops of factory sugar, as well as table and fodder beets are sprayed with the above fungicides. In wet weather, if there is a further increase in diseases, the spraying is repeated after 15-20 days. Do not spray testes during flowering. Crops are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid, or 0.3% suspension of 90% copper oxychloride, or 0.4% suspension of 80% zineb within a radius of 5 m from diseased plants (until they are removed) if the affected plants account for more than 0.5%, carry out continuous spraying, repeating it after 15-20 days, and in humid weather - after 10-12 days (consumption of working fluid 400-800 liters per hectare). It is important to avoid high doses of nitrogen fertilizers and grow disease resistant varieties.

Jaundice characterized by yellowing of the leaves of the lower and middle tiers. It starts from the tops, and then gradually spreads along the edges and between the main veins of the leaf. Along the veins and at the base of the leaf, the tissues remain green for a long time. Affected leaves are wider, but shorter than healthy ones, more dense and brittle.

In the affected leaves, the sieve tubes and adjacent cells die off and are filled with a yellow mucous mass. The membranes of the affected cells turn yellow and swell somewhat. First, this occurs in the veins of the leaves, then in the petioles and often in the vascular-fibrous bundles of the root.

The causative agent of jaundice is a complex of virus strains (Betae virus 4 Smith, etc.). Its carriers are aphids. It is preserved in the uterine roots of affected plants. Weeds are also a source of infection - dandelion, marsh, quinoa, beetle. The disease can reduce the yield of roots by more than 25, and sugar content by 1.5-3%.

What to do: timely and systematic disposal of weeds, control of insects - carriers of beet jaundice viruses.

4. Overcome insect pests

The last reason why beet leaves can turn yellow.

Beet aphid appears on beets in the second half of May; over the summer, more than 10 generations develop. Adult insects and larvae suck out the juices on the underside of the leaves, as a result of which the entire leaf blade deforms and curls. Damaged leaves turn yellow, curl, their edges and tops roll down, lose their elasticity, wither and dry out in dry weather. The growth of plants is delayed, the weight of root crops is sharply reduced.

Natural enemies of beet aphids: beetles and larvae of ladybirds, larvae of hoverflies, lacewing and other entomophages. These beneficial insects must be attracted to vegetable gardens by sowing various nectar plants (testes of onions, carrots, cabbage and other crops), on the flowers of which they often concentrate, and then migrate to beets and other plants where aphids are present.

To combat aphids, insecticides and folk remedies are used:

  • infusion of onion peel (200 g per 10 l of water),
  • infusion of green potato tops (1.2 kg per 10 liters of water),
  • infusion of green dandelion leaves (400 g per 10 liters of water).

In addition to beet aphids, pests are dangerous:

  • common beet flea,
  • beet shields,
  • beet fly,
  • beet crumb.

The listed pests gnaw the tops, as a result of which it withers, dries and turns yellow. You can read more about beet pests here: link ...

2. Temperature failure

In early August, high average daily temperatures are replaced by cold anticyclones - Arctic eddies. Lowering day and night temperatures by 5-10 degrees Celsius is not beneficial to thermophilic cucumbers. They immediately stop growing, which affects yields. Changes in day and night temperatures lead to illness. If the plants are grown in a greenhouse, then you can delay the onset of many diseases by closing the vents at night.

Preventive measures

As already mentioned, if the leaves of the pumpkin turn yellow, it means that the rules of care have been violated or the vegetable is sick.

Fixing the problem is always difficult, and there is a risk of crop loss, so prevention is best.

Preventive measures are aimed at creating an environment in which the risk of diseases and pests is minimized.

Agricultural techniques

Chemical and folk remedies

  • carry out pre-sowing seed treatment, make it permissible by soaking before planting in a weak solution of potassium permanganate
  • twice during the growing season, plantings are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid to prevent the appearance of fungal infections
  • choose pest resistant varieties
  • increase the immunity of plants by introducing fertilizer complexes and organic matter
  • spray plantings with infusions to repel pests (with garlic, onions, wood ash, tobacco)
  • when the primary sign of a lesion appears, they are treated with fungicidal and insecticidal agents.

If the lower leaves of the seedlings began to turn yellow, this means that it must be planted in the ground as soon as possible. The overgrown root system of the seedling in such a situation completely entwines the earthen lump in the pot, and the plant does not have enough nutrition. All the strength of a young tomato is spent on growing as many new roots as possible, which will supply the plant with nutrients. Therefore, the leaves of the tomato begin to turn yellow.

The lower leaves of tomatoes may turn yellow if the plants were planted in the soil at their summer cottage too early. Yellowed leaves indicate hypothermia of the plant. This can be caused by cold soil or low air temperatures. If this happens in spring, then it is advisable to install metal arcs on the tomato garden, and cover them with plastic wrap on top, creating greenhouse conditions for the plants.

When replanting or as a result of too active loosening of the soil in a garden with tomatoes, the roots of plants can be damaged. As a result, the lower leaves of the tomato begin to turn yellow. If this happened, then you should wait a while and not be zealous with loosening the earth.

Soon, the root system should be restored and the plants will regain their normal appearance.

Although tomatoes are drought tolerant plants, if there is a lack of moisture in the soil, their lower leaves can begin to turn yellow. Usually, during the fruiting period, tomatoes are not recommended to be watered too actively, since the fruits may begin to crack and rot, but it is also not worthwhile to completely leave without moisture or water the plants superficially. It should be remembered that the main root of a tomato is located deeply, therefore, with low watering, moisture will evaporate from the surface, without reaching the root system. Tomatoes should be watered sparingly, but abundantly.

Yellowing of the lower leaves may indicate a lack of trace elements in the soil. Lack of nitrogen leads to the fact that the tomato leaves turn yellow. In such a situation, the tomatoes must be fed with a not too concentrated solution of mineral fertilizers.

The cause of the appearance of yellow leaves in the lower part of the plant can be a dangerous fungal disease Fusarium. With it, the leaves not only turn yellow, but also become lethargic, despite regular watering. If the cause of leaf damage is precisely Fusarium, then the plants should be treated with antifungal drugs - such as "Fitosporin" or "Phytocide". They must be diluted in water in accordance with the instructions; it is also advisable to repeat the spraying procedure after 10 days. Diseased yellow leaves should be removed.

The yellowing of the lower leaves in tomatoes can be caused by a variety of reasons. Experienced agronomists, when this alarming symptom appears, recommend starting with the normalization of watering the plants.

Read also:

Grapes are a perennial plant grown in the southern regions and central Russia. Wine, juices, jellies and compotes are made from it. The berry contains many vitamins and minerals that are beneficial to humans. To avoid diseases of grapes, it is necessary to follow the rules for caring for the crop, and timely fight against pests.

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