Indoor hydrangea: care, description of cultivation, types, reproduction


Houseplants Published: 01 February 2012 Reprinted: Last edits:

Botanical description

Hydrangea (lat.Hydrangea) belongs to the Hortensiev family and has up to 35 species. Another, more scientific and later name is Hydrangea, but it is so widespread and did not take root. The plant grows in natural conditions in Asia and the American continent.
Representatives of the genus are shrubs with large falling leaves. There are species expressed by small trees or vines. In the middle of the inflorescence, the flowers are fruiting and small, and along the edges of the plant there are large flowers that do not produce fruits - they consist of 4-5 sepals, similar to petals, usually pink, white or blue. A capsule with two to five lobes is a fruit containing a large number of small seeds.
Home hydrangea blooms for a long time and abundantly, hardy and unpretentious to care for. Indoor hydrangeas are grown in spring when they bloom in red, blue, white or pink. And in summer and autumn they can be planted in the garden. In order for the plant to bloom well, it must winter at a temperature of at least 8 ° C, and optimally at 12 ° C; the soil should be moist at all times.

Planting and caring for hydrangea

  • Bloom: copious from spring to autumn.
  • Lighting: bright diffused light.
  • Temperature: in spring and summer - 18-22 ºC, in winter the temperature should not fall below 8 ºC.
  • Watering: from spring to autumn - abundant and frequent. Since autumn, watering is reduced, but the earthen coma cannot be allowed to dry out. Since the end of winter, watering has been gradually increased.
  • Air humidity: increased. The plant requires spraying all year round. The pot is placed on a tray with wet pebbles.
  • Top dressing: from spring until the end of flowering every week with complex mineral fertilizers for flowering plants. During the dormant period, feeding is not needed.
  • Rest period: after the hydrangea sheds its leaves, it enters a dormant period that lasts 2-2.5 months.
  • Transfer: annually in the spring.
  • Cropping: every spring.
  • Substrate: ready-made soil mixture for azaleas or a mixture of two parts of sod land, one part of leafy soil, one part of peat and half of sand.
  • Reproduction: cuttings.
  • Pests: aphids and spider mites.
  • Diseases: chlorosis and problems due to poor care.
  • Properties: poisonous hydrangea leaves can cause dermatitis!

Read more about growing hydrangeas below.

Hydrangea - photo

Hydrangea care at home

Lighting

It is impossible to grow a hydrangea at home under direct rays of the sun, therefore the eastern and western windows are the best option for the location of the plant. On the northern windows, flowering will not be so abundant, and the plant itself will stretch out. In the southern rooms, the hydrangea must be placed away from the window so that the sun's rays do not fall on the plant. From June to August, it is advisable to take out the hydrangea plant in a shady place in the fresh air. But from the middle of winter, just at the time the buds begin to develop, the hydrangea needs to be kept under the sun.

Temperature

In spring and summer, the temperature should be 20 ° C plus or minus 2 ° C. In winter, the temperature should be lower, but not below the 8 ° C mark. Household hydrangea does not grow well next to central heating radiators.

Watering the hydrangea

In the spring-autumn period, hydrangea is watered abundantly, immediately after the topsoil has dried. In the fall, watering begins to decrease, watering so that the earthy clod does not dry out. When leaves begin to appear in mid to late winter, watering should be gradually increased.

Spraying

Indoor hydrangea requires spraying throughout the year to ensure high humidity. Also, it is advisable to put the plant on a pallet with water and pebbles or expanded clay, not allowing the water to touch the pot.

Dormant period

When the hydrangea sheds its leaves, a dormant period begins, which lasts 2-2.5 months. Plants are kept in ventilated and cool rooms throughout the entire period.

Bloom

If the care is carried out correctly, then the hydrangea plant will bloom from mid-spring to the end of autumn. Hydrangea inflorescences are similar to corymbose or globular umbrellas. The flowers at the edges are larger and have sepals instead of petals, the color of which can be changed, if you water the plant with aluminum alum (0.5% solution) before flowering, the pink flowers will turn lilac, and the white ones - blue. When iron salts are added to the substrate, the flowers on the plant will be blue.

Feeding hydrangeas

When the buds begin to appear and throughout the growing season, the hydrangea is fed every week with mineral fertilizers. During the dormant period, the plant does not need to be fed.

Pruning

Each spring, the plant is pruned, removing weak stems that are not suitable for the appearance of inflorescences on them. Pruning also accelerates the development of new shoots, makes flowering more abundant, and new inflorescences larger. You need to trim it so that a maximum of 6 eyes remain on the shoot.

Hydrangea transplant

Hydrangea varieties with pink, white and red flowers are transplanted into azalea mix every spring. You can make a substrate from two parts of sod, one part of peat and leaf land and half of sand. Humus is not used for growing hydrangeas.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings

In March, the lower young shoots of hydrangea are cut off and cut into pieces of about 5 cm (there must be at least a couple of internodes). Cuttings are planted to a depth of 2 cm at a distance of 5 cm from each other. After one and a half to two weeks, the cuttings take root and they are seated in their pots. The tops of a young hydrangea plant should be trimmed at the end of spring, which will contribute to a more lush hydrangea development. A year after planting, young plants will bloom, usually late spring - early autumn. Flowers only appear on last year's stems.

Virulence

Large-leaved hydrangea must be handled carefully, because its leaves are poisonous and can cause dermatitis.

Diseases and pests of hydrangea

Chlorosis of hydrangea leaves. It is impossible to use sod land in the substrate, as well as watering the plants with water with excess lime - this leads to Hortense's disease with chlorosis.

Spots on hydrangea leaves. Light spots on the leaves can appear if there is too much light.

The ends of the hydrangea leaves dry out. The tips of the leaves begin to dry out if the air humidity is too low or the plant lacks moisture in the soil.

Hydrangea grows slowly. If the plant is not fertilized enough, then it may not bloom or develop poorly.

Hydrangea pests. The main pests are aphids and spider mites.

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Hydrangea tree / Hydrangea arborescens Read more ...

This shrub grows up to 1-3 m in height, the crown is round. The shoots are pubescent. The leaves are bare on the underside, elliptical or ovate, can reach a length of up to 20 cm, have denticles along the edge, green above, gray below. Infertile flowers grow up to 2 cm in diameter. Inflorescences grow up to 15 cm in diameter and contain both sterile and fertile flowers. The fruit is expressed in a three-millimeter box.

Hydrangea paniculata / Hydrangea paniculata

This shrub in nature grows up to 10 m in height. The leaves are ovoid or elliptical, reaching a length of up to 12 cm; on the lower side, the leaves are pubescent much thicker than on the upper side. The inflorescence is expressed by a pyramidal 25 cm panicle. Fertile flowers have white petals and are small in size, and sterile ones are larger, petals - initially white - take on a pink tint. For the first time, the hydrangea blooms in the 4th or 5th year.

Garden Hydrangea (large-leaved) / Hydrangea macrophylla

This species is native to Japan and China. In natural conditions, this shrub grows up to 4 m in height - in subtropical zones. The farther from the equator the plant grows, the smaller its size. Shoots are straight. The leaves are bright green and ovoid. The sterile flowers are large (up to 3.5 cm in diameter), pink with strokes of a dark carmine shade; fruiting flowers grow in shields up to 15 cm long and up to 10 cm wide, they are white, lilac or blue.

Literature

  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the family Hydrangea
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Indoor Plants Information

Sections: Houseplants Beautiful flowering Plants on G Hydrangea


Garden hydrangea (large-leaved) - planting and care in the open field, pruning, reproduction

Hydrangea is one of the most beautiful garden shrubs. Growing this plant is not difficult, but in order for the bushes to bloom beautifully, several conditions must be observed. Description of the shrub hydrangea garden (large-leaved), planting and care in the open field, reproduction, pruning, are presented in this article.

  1. Shrub description
  2. Popular types
  3. Large-leaved hydrangea (garden) - description
  4. Varieties
  5. Choosing a place in the garden, soil requirements
  6. Landing
  7. When to plant?
  8. Soil preparation
  9. Landing technique - step by step
  10. Care after landing
  11. Growing and care
  12. Watering
  13. Fertilizer
  14. Autumn care, wintering
  15. Pruning - in autumn, spring, summer
  16. Propagation by cuttings
  17. Diseases and pests
  18. Chlorosis
  19. Leaf sunburn
  20. Gray mold
  21. Leaf spot
  22. Powdery mildew
  23. Pests
  24. Why doesn't hydrangea bloom?
  25. Application in landscape

Chamelacium care at home

Location and lighting

Chamelacium is a light-loving plant and is excellent for direct sunlight. The flower container with the plant must be placed on the lightest window sill in the apartment on the sunny side. When growing chamelacium in a flower garden in the country, it is also worth choosing the lightest land plot, which is under sunlight and warmth for the maximum amount of time during the day.

To facilitate the full development of the plant during a short daylight hours, it is worth using fluorescent lamps to create additional illumination.

Temperature

The ideal temperature for growing chamelacium indoors from March to October is 20-25 degrees. The rest of the time (during the rest period) - no more than 15 degrees. On very hot summer days, when the thermometer approaches 30 degrees, it is necessary to cool the air in the room with the help of ventilation, since the shrub plant may not survive the heat.

Air humidity

Since chamelacium comes from areas with rocky slopes and a minimum amount of moisture, the level of humidity is not very important for it, and watering should be moderate and not abundant. On the contrary, when the soil is waterlogged, the root part of the plant will begin to rot, and the flowers will wither.

Watering

In the spring-summer period, chamelacium must be watered regularly, especially during active flowering. Water for irrigation should not be cold, previously settled for 2-3 days and with a small addition of lemon juice or citric acid (2-3 times a month).

In winter, when the plant is dormant, watering is reduced to a minimum, but the soil in the pot should always be slightly damp. Do not allow the soil to dry out in the flower container.

The soil

The soil mixture for growing chamelacium should contain humus, peat, moss and sand. With such components, the soil will be light, it will be easy to loosen it, which is very important for the development of the plant. Loosening of the soil must be carried out regularly.

Top dressing and fertilizers

You can apply fertilizers for chamelacium only twice: in the active phase of growth and during flowering. Top dressing should contain potassium and phosphorus and are designed specifically for flowering indoor plants. The rest of the time, fertilization is not required for the plant.

Transfer

The root system of the domestic chamelacium shrub is very vulnerable, therefore, the transplant is carried out by transshipment without damaging the earthy coma.

Pruning

Most of the chamelacium varieties are fast-growing plants and require regular pruning of lush shoots. Pruning is recommended only after flowering is about thirty percent of the length of the shoot. The shape of the shrub can be formed not only by pruning, but also by pinching the upper leaves.


Hydrangea care

Caring for hydrangea jasmine room and large-leaved at home requires a certain approach. Then it will look great on the photo and on the windowsill.

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Location and illumination

The plant does not like direct sunlight, diffused light or slight partial shade is better for it. It is worth placing a container with a flower on the windowsill next to a tall bush that will cover the hydrangea.

Temperature regime

The optimum temperature for flower growth is 1822 degrees. In winter, it is necessary to create conditions for rest. The temperature is lowered to 10 degrees.

The soil

Caring for a large-leaved room hydrangea at home requires a certain type of soil. Depending on him, she is in the garden and in the photo of various shades.

Hydrangea loves slightly acidified soil. Therefore, a substrate is prepared for it, consisting of sod land, leaf fall, peat and sand in a ratio of 4: 2: 2: 1. The leaves are sometimes replaced with soil taken from the conifers in the forest.

Watering

Regular. Hydrangea loves moisture, but it should not be waterlogged, as excess liquid can lead to decay of the root system.

Top dressing

The bush is fed once every 14 days with special solutions for hydrangeas, which already contain all the substances necessary for the flower. You can combine top dressing with watering.

Pruning

Pruning hydrangeas in a pot at home is done twice a year. In the spring, a sanitary one is done, during which broken and damaged branches are removed, which also interfere with the development of the crown, thickening the bush.

In the fall, each branch is cut off by a third of the hydrangea, the shoots are removed. The inflorescences are cut off only after drying. Care consists in collecting the cuttings and disposing of them, as they may be affected by diseases or pests.

Transfer

Held for the first time after purchase. This will help check the condition of the plant, since unscrupulous sellers sell recently transplanted flowers that have not yet taken root, which can lead to the death of such shoots if they are sold with a damaged root system.

Moving the same plant into another pot, you can inspect the roots of the hydrangea. If they are not damaged, they are placed in a new container and covered with prepared soil. If there are minor problems, it is better to cut off such places with a disinfected sharp knife.

Other transplants are performed annually in the fall. They take a pot of a larger diameter, lay drainage on the bottom, for example, a layer of expanded clay, then cover it with a little prepared earth. The substrate itself was described above.


Planting and caring for Nikko Blue hydrangea

The crop will not bloom if agricultural technology does not meet the requirements. When planting, take into account the composition of the soil, the location of the site allocated for Nikko Blue's hydrangea. By winter, the plant is pruned and shelter measures are carried out. They are planted in spring and autumn, preferably at the beginning of the growing season; over the summer, the hydrangea will get stronger and more easily endure the winter.

Selection and preparation of the landing site

The plant will have a decorative appearance when the place for planting is selected correctly. The culture is characterized by low drought resistance, it needs constant watering, but it will not grow in a swampy area, since it does not tolerate stagnant moisture. The site must be well drained.

Heat-loving hydrangea cannot grow without light. In the shade, the stems are elongated, the flowering is scattered, rare, the inflorescences are small, dull in color. Hydrangea does not respond well to direct sunlight at midday. The planting site is determined with partial shading, located behind the wall of the building or not far from low bushes, but taking into account that there is enough ultraviolet radiation for the flowering plant in the morning and evening.

The root system of the species is superficial, therefore, close proximity of other crops with the same type of root is not desirable; due to competition, hydrangea may not receive nutrients in insufficient quantities. This factor will primarily affect the decorative effect of the shrub.

Particular attention is paid to the composition of the soil. Herbaceous shrubs will not grow on calcareous soil. With a neutral indicator, the vegetation of the aboveground mass is normal, with good stem formation, but it will not work to achieve a blue color of flowers. The inflorescences will turn out to be pale pink. Slightly acidic soil is the best option for a seedling. If necessary, the indicator is adjusted by making appropriate funds.

Landing rules

The work is carried out in the spring, when the earth warmed up to 15 0 C and above (approximately at the end of May). It is better to plant a crop on the site with seedlings that are at least two years old.

You can buy planting material in a nursery or grow from seeds.

  1. They make a pit 60 * 60 cm in size.
  2. You can put coniferous litter on the bottom, it will acidify the soil, sprinkle it with soil on top.
  3. Mix in equal parts sod layer with compost and peat, add 50 g of superphosphate.
  4. Pour the substrate into the well and fill it with water (10 l).
  5. Hydrangea is placed vertically (in the center) and covered with earth.

After completion of the work, the soil is not compacted, but re-watered with water. Cover the root circle with last year's needles, the mulch will maintain moisture and acidify the soil.

Watering and feeding

Hydrangea Nikko Blue is moisture-loving, watering it is vital, but waterlogging can lead to negative consequences. There is a threat of decay of the root system and the development of a fungal infection. Watering is carried out depending on the precipitation. For normal vegetation, the plant needs 15 liters of water for five days.

The first year the plant is not fed, it has enough nutrient mixture introduced during planting. For the next season, they are guided by the inflorescences, if there are few of them and they are small, they immediately apply funds containing potassium sulfate and superphosphate. This means that the soil on the site is not fertile and there is not enough nutrition for Nikko Blue's hydrangea. In subsequent years, in early spring, the bush is fertilized with Agricola, during flowering with Kristalon.

Pruning hydrangea large-leaved Nikko Blue

In regions with a cold climate, Nikko Blue hydrangea is pruned in the fall, this is necessary in order to better cover it for the winter. In the south, cosmetic pruning is done in the spring. Dry inflorescences lose their color, but retain their shape well; against the background of snow, the plant looks quite aesthetically pleasing.

  1. All inflorescences are cut off.
  2. Leave shoots of one year, so that there are at least six vegetative buds from below. If there are more of them, it will be difficult to cover the crown, the plant may die.
  3. Old stems are removed completely.

The bush is formed by 12-15 shoots. In warmer climates, more buds can be left on annual stems, each of which will sprout and form an inflorescence in spring. The height of the bush will be higher. If the plant hibernates in stationary conditions, pruning is carried out after the bush has lost its decorative effect. The height is adjusted as desired.

Shelter for the winter hydrangeas Nikko Blue

Cover the crop growing in the open field when the temperature drops to zero. The main task is to preserve the root and part of the vegetative buds.

Shelter culture technology:

  1. The remaining leaves are cut from the plant, the stems are pulled together with a rope.
  2. The root is spud and covered with a thick layer of mulch, you can take any material: needles, straw, sawdust. It must be dry.
  3. Around the stakes or metal rods make a construction in the form of a cone, the upper part of the stakes is pulled together, the lower one should cover the root circle.
  4. The height of the frame should be 15 cm above the tops of the stems.

Any covering material that does not allow moisture to be pulled is pulled onto the structure

The lower part is turned inside out and covered with earth, pressed down with boards, bricks. After the onset of frost, they are covered with spruce branches or covered with snow.


Where does hydrangea grow?

Hydrangea grows in South and East Asia, America and Russia. A wide variety of species of this plant are found in China and Japan. In Russia, frost-resistant types of hydrangea are mainly common, such as paniculate and tree-like.


Reproduction of room hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated at home by cuttings, dividing a bush or seeds. The easiest and most effective way is grafting. Hydrangea, propagated in this way, blooms in the second year after planting. Rooting of cuttings is easy both in soil and in water.

Cuttings can be made from late May to September.

Cuttings in the ground

For grafting you need to prepare:

  • sterile pruning shears
  • drug Kornevin
  • planting substrate (clean sand or infertile soil)
  • small low pot
  • shelter (cellophane, cut plastic bottle, etc.)
  • warm water spray
  • turmeric or charcoal powder for processing slices.

For cuttings, it is better to choose green, non-lignified shoots.

Step-by-step process of grafting:

    Cut off the selected green stalk.

Carefully cut off the chosen twig

Cut off the stalk under the lower bud

Cut off the top above the upper kidney

The lower leaves of the cuttings are now useless

Leaves should be trimmed by about half.

We stick the cutting into the substrate

Wet the substrate abundantly with water

Cover the cuttings to preserve moisture

Video: how to propagate hydrangea by cuttings

Water rooting option

We perform the same actions as for rooting in the substrate, but we do not dip the lower cut of the cutting into Kornevin, but add this preparation to the water at the tip of a knife. You can add Methylene Blue (available from pet store aquariums). It conditions and disinfects water, protecting against fungal infections. It is enough to tint the water a little with it to a blue tint.

Methylene blue conditions and disinfects water

Hydrangea cuttings do not emit substances that greatly spoil the water, so it does not need to be changed. but only add as it evaporates.

We put the cutting in the water until the roots form and plant it in the ground after the roots grow a little.

Hydrangea cuttings root well in water

The roots usually grow within a month.

Dividing the bush

It is better to divide the bush in the spring, although this operation can be performed in the fall (before or after flowering).

  • get the hydrangea out of the pot
  • shaking off excess soil
  • we check the roots, cut off the dried ones if necessary.
  • we are looking for a suitable place for separation and cut the bush with a sterile sharp knife
  • we plant delenki according to the usual scheme.

This bush is cut in two

Seed propagation

Plants obtained from seeds bloom in the third year.

  • Hydrangea seeds are sown in February in a mixture: 4 parts of leafy land, 2 parts of peat, 1 part of sand, 1 part of humus
  • Can be sown in one of the purchased soils for hydrangeas (as well as conifers, azaleas, rhododendrons)
  • Hydrangea seeds do not need pre-planting treatment, but for better germination into the water, which will moisten the soil from a spray bottle, you can add Epin: 7-8 drops per half liter of water.

Step-by-step instructions for sowing hydrangea seeds

  1. Sow seeds superficially and evenly on a moist substrate.
  2. Sprinkle with sand on top quite a bit (!). Moisten with a spray bottle and cover with glass or other transparent lid.
  3. We put it in a warm, bright place (+ 18–28 o C). But not in direct sunlight!
  4. We monitor the humidity, regularly spray the substrate.
  5. We ventilate every day for about five minutes, wipe the glass from condensation.
  6. When shoots appear, remove the glass.

The seeds germinate within a month.

Seedlings are planted in the same substrate when the first pair of leaves appears on them.

When young plants have five leaves, they need to be transplanted.

Hydrangea seed reproduction stage

Small sprouts need to be fed with fertilizer from nitrogen and potassium 2 times a month (watered or sprayed).

The composition of the fertilizer: dilute half a teaspoon of carbamide (urea) in warm water, add a few granules of potassium permanganate (potassium fertilizer) until a slightly pink color is obtained.

Despite the fact that caring for a hydrangea is quite difficult, it fully justifies itself when luxurious buds appear. No other flower can compare with the hydrangea in either the size or the brightness of the inflorescences.


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