Dormant period of plants and flower care during rest: fertilization and watering of flowers during dormancy

Houseplants Published: 06 September 2012 Reprinted: Last edits:

Almost all plants have a period of active growth and a dormant period, during which some of them, dropping leaves and shoots, hibernate in the form of a tuber or bulb. And there are those who simply slow down their growth in the cold months - they do not grow shoots and leaves, do not bloom. Some plants do not have a pronounced dormant period, but this does not mean that they do not need rest. Any flower needs rest, just outwardly this stage looks different for each plant. If the plant does not rest, its lifespan is noticeably reduced. Rest is a very important time in the life of plants, so care must be taken to ensure that it goes well.

Dormant period of plants

In my apartment there are two plants that, after flowering, "go into hibernation" and several of those that slow down their vital activity during the dormant period. The rest of the flowers are said to be winter or summer.

A prominent representative of falling asleep plants is home gloxinia, or sinningia, which blooms with beautiful, velvety bells all warm months. In late autumn, she sheds leaves, her shoots die off, and her tubers show no signs of life until spring.

Another representative of hibernating plants is triangular oxalis (Oxalis triangularis) or Bowie's oxalis, which has amazingly beautiful and original form with purple leaves. Many people grow it directly in the ground, because its nodules can tolerate frost. I planted the sour cherry in a flowerpot and keep it in the room.

Both gloxinia and triangular oxalis, like other indoor plants, must have a full dormant period, otherwise they can get sick and even die. The list of indoor plants in need of proper rest continues, some types of cacti, orchids and caladium. There are indoor flowers that do not need annual rest, such as krinums and amaryllis. They are able to fully grow and develop throughout the year, although if you force them to rest, that is, create the necessary conditions for rest, at the beginning of the next growing season they will look healthier and rejuvenated.

Resting temperature

In order for the plants to enter the dormant period, the room temperature must be lowered. Some flowers are comfortable at 12-14 ºC, while others require colder air - no higher than 5-6 ºC. Kislitsa, for example, prefers to rest in a cellar, where the temperature does not rise above 5 ºC, and gloxinia winters on a cold veranda at a temperature of 14-15 ºC.

Some flowers can be left on the north or west windowsills close to cool glass. If the windowsill is too cold, place some styrofoam under the flower pots, otherwise the roots will freeze and rot.

Those plants that do not fall asleep in winter should be removed away from radiators. Warm and dry air in the room where the heating devices work is harmful to all colors. If it's not too hot in your home, leave the awake flowers in their usual places.

Ornamental flowering plants require the closest attention: if it is cold in the room, they can throw off all the buds. Keep in mind that the cooler the indoor air, the longer the rest period. And what temperature plants need for rest depends on their type and variety.

For example, tropical plants (begonias, saintpaulias and philodendrons at home) winter well at normal apartment temperatures - 18-20 ºC, in cooler conditions they become painful. And subtropical azaleas, kalle, citrus fruits, fuchsias, geraniums need to lower the temperature to 8 ºC, a higher temperature during the rest period provokes diseases.

Spraying and watering

Just as important as temperature, humidity and watering frequency. The general principle is this: if the plant is "sleeping", then it needs to be watered very rarely (1-2 times a month), or not watered at all. For example, I carry out moderate watering of gloxinia once a month, but I do not water triangular acid. To determine if a plant needs moisture, touch the soil, and if it sticks to your fingers, this means that the soil does not need moisture yet. Pay attention also to the quality of the water for irrigation: the best water is melt or rainwater. Tap water must be defended within 24 hours or passed through a filter. The water temperature should be the same as the room temperature, or slightly warmer.

In winter, cacti are watered once a month, and plants such as homemade scarlet, Saintpaulia, Kalanchoe, clivia, sansiviera - a few days after the soil stops sticking to the fingers.

Once the workers of the greenhouse gave me valuable advice: watering the plant during the dormant period is rarely necessary, but abundantly, otherwise, the roots may receive less moisture. If you have flowers that cannot be watered frequently, but need to be grown in a humid environment, spray them with warm water.

Plant lighting

Both gloxinia and oxalis feel great in winter in the darkness of the cellar. If the flower really needs rest, find a shady place for it: during the dormant period, flower buds are laid in many plants, so bright light can provoke premature growth and forcing weak shoots.

Other flowers, on the contrary, need to be kept closer to the light, and since in winter the length of daylight hours is greatly reduced, it is possible that decorative flowering plants will have to organize additional lighting with a fluorescent lamp.

Top dressing and protection against diseases

The dormant period requires the abandonment of fertilizers - for plants it is like for people "do not eat after six." Flowers are not fed at this time of year.

If the room is too dry and the temperature is over 25 ºC, then it is possible that the plants will begin to feel discomfort. In addition, they can be attacked by sucking insects - ticks, aphids, whiteflies, thrips, coccids. Try to regularly and carefully inspect each flower in order to detect danger and eliminate it in time. If the insects have time to breed, the damaged parts of the plant must be cut off and burned, and the flower must be treated with insect repellent.

Follow these simple rules for organizing wintering, and your plants will become healthier and more luxurious every year. After all, healthy sleep is necessary for all living things.


  1. Indoor Plants Information

Sections: Houseplants

Zephyranthes is a herbaceous bulbous perennial plant, the leaf plates of which have a belt-like shape. The flowers of this plant and the crocus are very similar to each other. The color of the flowers depends on the variety and type of zephyranthes and can be white, red or pink. And there are also varieties with two-color flowers. Different varieties bloom at different times, but in general they bloom throughout the year. At home, only 10 species of zephyranthes are cultivated, with 5 of them being the most popular with flower growers.

Types, varieties of pomegranate and their photos

The Derbennikov family includes only two types of deciduous trees and small shrubs.

The most suitable for growing at home is the common pomegranate. (Punica granatum). Naturally, the pomegranate tree grows in Southern Europe and Western Asia. It is a small tree up to 5-10 m in height, with green foliage and scarlet flowers. Ball-shaped fruits reach 8 to 18 cm in diameter.

Breeders have bred a large number of different garden forms and varieties, which differ in the taste of the fruit and the degree of their abundance.

Another form of Common Pomegranate, which is a natural species, is widespread in indoor floriculture - this is the Dwarf Pomegranate (Punica nana). It is small in size, no more than a meter, subject to regular pruning, it can be up to 30 cm high. It has small leaves and can bear fruit. Indoor pomegranate fruits do not exceed three centimeters in diameter. The seeds of this potted plant are sold in the shop under the general name "Dwarf Pomegranate" or Punica granatum "NANA".

Important: Two varieties of dwarf pomegranate seeds are suitable for indoor cultivation: "Carthage", "Baby".

Some varieties of the original species, suitable for growing at home, but exceeding the size of the dwarf species, are less common among florists:

  • «Flore pleno»- the plant comes from Persia, has an exclusively decorative function, does not bear fruit. The size of the shrub reaches a height of 3-4 m.Terry bright red flowers resemble a carnation in shape
  • «Flore pleno alba"- similar to the previous species, but its flowers are white
  • «Double flower"- another type of terry pomegranate with multi-colored flowers, where in one inflorescence there are simultaneously petals of red, white, pink flowers, they can be monochromatic, have stripes or specks.

In the natural environment, there is another known - the second - type of plant, this is the Socotran Pomegranate (Punica protopunica). His homeland is the island of Socotra. It is a tree or shrub with abundant branching. It can reach a height of 4.5 meters. It differs in smaller flowers, they are not red, but pink in color, smaller fruits and rounded leaves. This species was not accepted by gardeners due to its inferior taste.

Choice of place and conditions of detention

Successful cultivation and splendor of flowering will depend on the correct choice of a place for a pot with a lily and on the conditions created around it:

  1. Illumination. Lilies need good lighting. But her delicate petals are harmed by too bright sun rays, so in the summer she needs to create shading, and in the winter it must be illuminated with phytolamps. Pots with blooming lilies are best placed at home on the sills of windows facing south and west.
  2. Temperature. Lily prefers to bask in the warmth; in winter she needs a warm windowsill. After planting is completed, the pot is kept for 2-3 months in a dark room and at a stable air temperature of +5 degrees. A cellar, a cold basement, or an unheated garage is suitable for this purpose. After a couple of months, the pots are moved to a place with an air temperature of +10 degrees and left there until seedlings 5 ​​cm high appear.Further, the ambient temperature should be increased to +18 degrees, while at night the coolness should remain up to +10 degrees. When the buds that appear are colored, the pots can be rearranged on a suitable windowsill.
  3. Air and humidity. Potted lilies are afraid of drafts, but airing the room will not interfere with them. Before the appearance of lily flowers, it is necessary to spray a couple of times a month, they are quite moisture-loving plants. After the appearance of the buds, the lilies continue to spray, at this moment it is necessary to remove the plant away from the sun's rays until the moisture on it dries out. To increase the humidity of the air near the lilies, it is advised to place vases with water or an aquarium with fish. It is allowed to place a pallet with wet stones under the pot.
  4. Soil and pot. Lilies will thrive in fertilized, loose soil. Usually they buy ready-made soil mixture for lilies. But you can make it yourself by mixing garden soil with compost, sand and humus in equal parts. It is preferable to choose a pot of clay or ceramic. Its diameter depends on the number of bulbs planted. A pot of 16-18 cm in diameter will be appropriate for a single onion, for three bulbs you need to choose a pot with a diameter of 40 cm. The height of a lily pot is usually about 40 cm.It should be noted that you cannot plant bulbs in an unnecessarily spacious pot. Instead of releasing flowers, they will take up free space with separating babies.

Caring for hippeastrum after flowering at home

Indoor plants not only decorate the room, but also heal the air in it, taking carbon dioxide from it and converting it into oxygen. But each representative of the flora should have its own approach - some require a lot of sun, someone prefers a damp twilight, etc. This article will focus on hippeastrum, one of the most beautiful representatives of the floral world.

Fertilizer types


It is a mixture of components, usually sold in the form of granules, powder or crystals. In indoor floriculture, they are rarely used; such fertilizer is difficult to remove from the soil when green pets are "sleeping", that is, during a dormant period.


Usually these are concentrated powders that are diluted with water to obtain a liquid fertilizer. Usually they are diluted until completely homogeneous, stirring constantly so that there is no sediment left that can burn the root system. Conveniently, such bags are compact, you do not have to pay for "water". The downside is that such fertilizers crumble during storage.

Pills and sticks

This fertilizer is for completely lazy flower growers, it is the simplest to use them, you do not need to breed or cook anything specially, you just need to put a nutrient stick or tablet into a flower pot. The fertilizer gradually dissolves in water with each watering and acts on the plant through the roots.

The advantage of such sticks is that you can forget about feeding for a while and you can not be afraid to exceed the dosage. Although in this case, it can be difficult for the owner to understand whether the fertilizer is still working or not. And professional flower growers believe that this method is harmful to flowers, because a high concentration of substances can practically "burn" the root system of a flower, and it is also very difficult to get fertilizer if necessary.

Briefly about liquid fertilizers

As a rule, stores most often sell them, such fertilizers are the easiest to use. For the price, they are somewhat more expensive than granular ones, but much more convenient, since this is already a ready-made homogeneous solution. Before using a beautiful bottle of fertilizing, you need to carefully read the label, since the drug can be concentrated, it must be diluted with water, and not used in pure form.

Liquid fertilizer for indoor flowers

Roots absorb fertilization much better in a liquid state, such fertilizers are released immediately with the necessary ratios of elements for different types of crops... Bottles usually have bright pictures that leave no doubt that this particular nutritional complex is good for violets, but that one is good for dracaena and palms. Fertilizers are most willing to buy - ready-made complexes for ficuses, palms, ferns, when they are used, the plants grow well, and their leaves are larger and brighter.

If a florist has many different types at home, then it is convenient to use one universal remedy for everyone at once, there are such complex dressings that are useful for most types of plants. But, although such a tool is considered universal, it is less effective, it is still better to approach each flower individually, and definitely not water the orchid with water with dracaena feed.

For the most part, fertilizers are used during watering, but there are some that are used for feeding through the leaves.

Fertilizers for leaves

This type of fertilizer is used for spraying. Not only the roots can absorb nutrients, but the pores of the leaves are also capable of this, this type of feeding is called foliar feeding.With such watering, the indoor flower is not threatened with an excess of substances, the leaves and stems will absorb only as much as they need.

Special preparations have a high penetrating power, but not all types of indoor flowers like such dressings, therefore they are used somewhat less often than other types of fertilizers. For example, palm or succulents do not assimilate the necessary substances in the same way, as well as all plants with glossy shiny leaves, with thorns, with pubescent leaves.

The role of rest in the life of cyclamen

If the leaves begin to wither one by one, a dormant period sets in. It is essential in the life of a flower. And in no way is it a consequence of any disease. On the contrary, the health of the plant depends on how high-quality the rest is.

In summer, the tuber is dormant; the plant usually sheds all its leaves.

there are exceptions. If by this time the leaves on the plant are preserved, do not worry. Just leave it where it was. This is a normal occurrence for European cyclamen. It does not have a pronounced rest period. And there is no need to force him to rest. But the Persian cyclamen is compulsorily gaining strength in the summer, from May to August it sleeps.

For the summer, only the bulb remains in the pot. It is advisable to put it in a shaded cool place and wait about 3 months. Cyclamen care at this time has a number of features. Watering is done with a very small dose of water, about once every 2 weeks. But the tuber must not be allowed to dry. The soil in the pot is slowly moistened, without flooding with water, and make sure that the roots do not dry out.

At the end of summer, when the dormant period comes to an end, it is recommended to transplant the plant. Be sure to place drainage on the bottom of the pot. It will protect against excess moisture and help prevent decay. During this period, you can divide the tubers, cutting them so that each part contains 1-2 growth buds, as well as roots. And then instead of one flower you will have two. Place the tubers in loose soil, burying only halfway.

Then we put the pot in a bright place. The rest period is over. Very soon we will notice the first leaves that have hatched. We begin to water it as we watered it before the dormant period. And once every 2 weeks we apply fertilizers intended for bulbous plants. The leaf mass will grow again, soon the cyclamen plant begins a flowering period. This is how you can strengthen the vitality of your favorite flower every year. And at the same time increase the number of flower pots on the window.

It is useful to spray the plant during the growth of the leaves. Especially if it is located near the radiator. After the appearance of the buds, it is impossible to spray. Watering should be done frequently, but not abundantly. The water temperature should be room temperature or 1-2 ° C lower. After the appearance of the peduncles, they are watered only through the pallet. Try to keep pots of your favorite indoor cyclamen flowers away from hot radiators and fireplaces. The plant will thank you for its care with abundant and long flowering.

Watch the video: 5 Μυστικά για Υγιή και Καταπράσινα Φυτά Εσωτερικού Χώρου. The Gardener

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