Application of organic, microbiological and green fertilizers in the garden and vegetable garden


... And fertility has grown

Having repeatedly observed a sharp depletion of the land after heavy rains, manifested in the form of general and interveinal chlorosis, as a certified agronomist, I came to the conclusion that in light and light loamy soils, which occupy most of the territory of our garden, there is a lack of bound forms of magnesium and nitrogen ...

In a garden, the potential fertility of soils (exchangeable and organically bound forms of nutrients) can be increased by systematic composting, green manure cultivation (cultivation of green fertilizers for subsequent incorporation into the ground: white mustard or oil radish) and the application of long-acting ABA fertilizer.

This approach to agriculture forms the basis of the organic farming system, which involves the restoration and improvement of soil fertility by making composts, mulching the soil. herbs.

Basic principles of organic farming:

1) the use of slow-acting fertilizers that do not cause a significant increase in the concentration of soil solution, for example, rotted compost, poorly soluble types of mineral fertilizers - phosphorus flour, AVA, that is, they do not cause chemical burns of the roots and do not suppress beneficial microorganisms;

2) the use of herbal infusions with an insecticidal or fungicidal effect for plant protection.

In recent years, a modern direction of organic farming has emerged - EM-technology, which implies the use of so-called "effective microorganisms" (as defined by the Japanese prof. Teruo Higa, the developer of the world's first EM drug "Kyussey EM-1". The Russian analogue of "Kyussey" is called "Baikal EM-1".

EM-technology provides for the introduction of EM-compost - compost made from familiar materials, but spilled with a solution of fertilizer "Baikal EM-1", which includes a set of microorganisms that accelerate the maturation of compost and increase its fertilizing value, as well as feeding vegetative plants with EM-solution (1 tbsp. spoon of "Baikal" in a bucket of water) or EM-extract (infusion of weeds, fermented with EM).

I'll tell you about my experiences and observations.

The most effective fertilizer in EM technologies - EM compost has shown itself to be very good with us. Our family was convinced of the higher efficiency of EM compost compared to ordinary compost after using it on cabbage and garden strawberries. For example, I applied only 2/3 of the recommended dose for cabbage, and the heads of cabbage were no less than those of gardeners applying ordinary compost or manure, and much larger than on plants for which only mineral fertilizers were applied. For example, the largest heads of cabbage reached 24 cm in diameter and weighed about 10 kg.

I tried to grow strawberries using EM technology. In the fall of the year before last, when laying the beds, I dug a trench in the middle of it, a shovel deep in the bayonet, filled it with EM compost and covered it with earth taken out of the trench. After that, as usual, he made holes, poured a handful of ash into each and planted a mustache. For comparison, mustache planted two varieties: Ruby pendant and Carmen. Last summer, during the period of the end of flowering, the beginning of the formation of green berries, and during ripening, he watered the plantings with a solution of "Baikal" (1 tablespoon per bucket of water). As a result, the yield from annual bushes was no lower than that of two- and three-year-old bushes in other beds, and besides, by the end of summer, very powerful whiskers had grown on this bed, in which the size of leaves and the length of the root system were no less than that of adult plants.

I'll tell you about other cultures as well.

Tomatoes responded well to feeding with the "Baikal" solution. For example, the seedlings underdeveloped by the time they were planted in the greenhouse, after feeding, almost caught up in height with plants from good seedlings. In addition, in the beds poured with the "Baikal" solution, the tomatoes bloomed earlier, and the fruits ripened earlier.

I also noticed the stimulating and rejuvenating effect of Baikal fertilizer on plants on apple and red currant. A young apple tree seedling with a severely damaged root system, after several waterings with this fertilizer, began to grow and develop well. A cut of red currant varieties Krasnaya Andreichenko with a small number of roots after feeding with the EM solution began to grow rapidly, in addition, the bark was noticeably rejuvenated - it became green.

Another application of "Baikal" is the suppression of diseases and repelling pests. More effective for these purposes is the drug EM-5, which is made independently from "Baikal EM-1". As observations have shown, spraying with EM-5 solution in our garden (2 tablespoons per bucket) reduced the scab infestation of apple trees, and perforated spots on plums; last year it came in handy against cruciferous flea beetles on cabbage (this year there were almost none). I read the recipe for EM-5 in the book by G. Selector "A Gardener's Dream Come True". To prepare it, you need: "Baikal EM-1" - 100 ml, vinegar 9% - 100 ml, vodka - 100 ml, honey or jam - 100 ml. This mixture is diluted with water to a volume of 1 liter and poured into a liter jar or bottle with a capacity of 1 liter, closed with a lid and placed in a dark, warm place with a temperature of about 30 ° C for 3-4 days for fermentation.

In conclusion, I will say that for high soil fertility, humus and a sufficient amount of fresh organic matter are needed to maintain soil microorganisms and earthworms.

A. Zharavin,
agronomist and amateur gardener,
Kirov


What is this EM-based fungicide

History of appearance

The origin of the technology of effective microorganisms is correlated with the name of the Japanese researcher Teruo Higa. In his scientific works in the group of EM - effective microorganisms, he enrolled 80 species of bacteria and fungi, most of which belong to photosynthetic and lactic acid bacteria and yeast.

Soil fertility, its restoration after intensive exploitation is one of the most important objects of study of agricultural science. Research, search for solutions is carried out in many countries of the world. In Russia, issues of soil fertility occupied the minds of outstanding scientists N.I. Vavilov, N.V. Timofeev-Resovsky.

For decades, research institutes of the Siberian Branch of the USSR Academy of Sciences and the capital have been conducting practical tests of both monocultural and complex bacterial preparations for improving soils. Studied their enzymatic activity, the ability to process cellulose, the extraction of nitrogen and phosphorus from organic matter in a form assimilated by plants.

The results of Japanese research and the experience accumulated by Russian science allowed the community of scientists and entrepreneurs to present the drug Baikal EM-1 to the market. Fungicide laid the foundation for the development of a whole direction in the agrochemical business - the production of microbiological EM products of a wide range of applications - means for the rapid maturation of compost, increasing the yield of fruit crops, cleaning cesspools, humic fertilizers.

Business projects in the field of EM technologies have even spawned Denta EM oral hygiene products, EMIX stickers - containing the memory of microorganisms and able to generate electromagnetic waves, probiotics and dietary supplements, and even EM plastics. The business for the production of products, the ancestor of which is Baikal EM-1, is organized according to the technology of network marketing, is full of a lot of mythological and unreliable, and, often, simply illiterate information. Especially zealous apologists for EM technologies in clinical cases of belief in a miracle drug resemble sectarians.

Although some of the information about the drug Baikal EM-1 is deliberately not disclosed (commercial secret), we will try to understand the information, distinguish explicit advertising from real results and decide: is it worth using the mysterious elixir Baikal EM-1 at our summer cottage?

The mechanism of action of the microbiological preparation

For adherents of "organic farming" methods, the main measure of soil quality is humus or humus. Collect and use plant residues, accelerate the decomposition of organic matter - one of the main concerns of fans of natural farming. It is in this difficult matter that Baikal EM-1 should help.

Manufacturers declare that the drug ensures the colonization of the soil with microflora, which will intensively process organic residues. Bacterial and yeast cultures that are part of Baikal EM-1, subject to the technology of applying the fungicide, will create active numerous colonies that will rapidly decompose organic matter into elements available to plants.

If we separate the grains of common sense from the advertising noise created around a microbiological product, then its benefits are as follows. Own "domestic" microbes, working on the processing of the organic layer (manure, compost), emit hydrogen sulfide. This gas is poisonous for them, with its excessive accumulation, microorganisms die, and the process of decomposition of compost slows down. Photosynthetic bacteria that make up Baikal EM-1 consume hydrogen sulfide, saving the native microbes from death. In addition, the preparation enriches the compost with numerous strains of lactic acid bacteria and yeast.

Thus, the work of the EM product in the compost heap is to create a favorable and "harmless" environment for the work of local and introduced microorganisms. This suggests the first conclusion: it makes sense to apply Baikal EM-1 technologically where organic processing is required. In a barren land, bacteria will simply have nothing to eat. However, there are many recipes for various uses of the drug, in addition to accelerated decomposition of compost:

  • Root dressing,
  • leaf feeding,
  • processing of beds in spring and autumn,
  • soaking before sowing seeds and potato tubers,
  • autumn processing of flower beds with perennials and annuals,
  • neutralization of unpleasant odors in cesspools and places where livestock and poultry are kept.


The effectiveness of humic fertilizers

Gumi fertilizer is an organic product of agricultural chemistry, which not only nourishes plants, stimulates their growth. The effectiveness lies in the fact that they improve the composition, structure of the soil, making heavy soils not difficult to cultivate, and light soils receive improved moisture capacity.

Improvement of the microbiological composition of the soil is due to the large number of amino acids, vitamins, beneficial microorganisms. After application, the earth is saturated with nitrogen and phosphorus. With regular use, the growth of humus in the soil is noticeable, which makes it possible to reduce its density, improve air and water permeability, increase photosynthesis processes, and facilitate respiration of plant cells.

Fertilizers exert the greatest influence of gumi on root crops (beets, carrots, radishes, onions, etc.). Tomatoes, cabbage, eggplant, peppers, pumpkin seeds, and cereals react well to the drug. When applied, there is an acceleration of growth, ripening period of fruits, an increase in their size, taste, a decrease in the amount of nitrates, an increase in sugars in the composition.

A weak effect of the drug is on sunflower, legumes, bean species due to their high protein content, as well as rapeseed, flax.
Whereas melons (watermelons, melons) do not need humus feeding at all.

When gum complexes are used in orchards, the content of vitamin C in fruits increases, and the resistance of trees and shrubs to pathogenic bacteria, including fungal diseases, increases.

All this happens because the mixture of the components of the drug converts the nutrients that are already in the soil into substances that are easily absorbed by plants.

You should know that annuals respond better to feeding gumi at the beginning of development (seedling age), during fruiting, and trees and shrubs - during transplantation, when the root system is injured. The same applies to perennial ornamental crops as well as fruit crops.

For better efficiency mineral-humic fertilizers are used about 3 times per season, alternating spraying or root dressing.

Gumi concentrates can be used in conjunction with other compounds (nitrogen, potash or organic).

But it must be remembered that mixing with phosphorus forms of dressings, with calcium nitrate is not allowed! Difficult-soluble compounds may form, which will harm the flora.

I would like to note that under greenhouse conditions, gumi compositions are more effective than when processing open ground.

This wonderful organic concentrate has quite a lot of advantages. But there is also a minus or disadvantage in the use of the drug. The drug does not affect fertile chernozem soils. At the same time, its use is not denied, since humic products of agricultural chemistry help such lands to maintain their fertility.

As for the harmful effects on human health, there is none. It's not for nothing that humates are called organic. Rather, the benefit, which lies in the fact that the products that receive the necessary storage of trace elements, acids during growing, become more environmentally friendly. At the same time, the content of nitrates decreases, the useful properties of the product increase, saturating, for example, fruits with vitamin C.

Humic fertilizers do not harm humans. This is the most important plus when caring for plantings!


Application of organic, microbiological and green fertilizers in the garden and vegetable garden - garden and vegetable garden

Lyubov Lifina Russia, Siberian Federal District, Kemerovo Region, Novokuznetsk
64 years old 08/14/2011 (Internet)

Late in the fall, they acquired a summer cottage plot, which had a thick layer of dead wood from wheatgrass and sow thistle. And there were also 20 currant bushes of an unknown clan-tribe, which did not know pruning and leaving for about 7 years. What kind of soil, what may or may not grow here - there was not the slightest idea. Of course, all winter I was stocking up on everything that could somehow help to get a positive result. Both mineral and organic matter (humates), and lime and ash.

I read about Baikal. I ran to the country shop and bought an M1. In early spring, as the accomplices advised, she collected all the dead wood, sprinkled it with soil, bird droppings and M1 solution, covered it with foil. Meanwhile, all the work on the development of the site was in full swing. Even on a tiny 6 acres, the soil turned out to be completely different in structure in different corners. Somewhere like fluff, but somewhere heavy, black sintered clay that cannot be cut with a shovel. I built the beds according to Mtlider. 50 cm wide, with wide passages from north to south. in the middle of each bed I made a deep furrow, where I laid the same dry grass, added bird droppings, a little green mass - the first weeds. I covered it with earth and watered it with a working solution of Baikal from a watering can. the garden bed is ready. I planted peppers, tomatoes, eggplants in these beds and potatoes on two more. For mulching generously with the same dry last year's grass.

And also the currants, mercilessly cut off in the fall - not all, but the one that I decided to leave behind, was sprayed with Baikal M5 in the spring.
They planted potatoes in the usual way, in the traditional way.

Now I see the results. The currants were the first to please. There were many berries, sweet and juicy. I did not meet the pests that I expected fully armed on these bushes. Untreated - fine, rare, sour for wild. There are aphids, ants, and some kind of fungus.And something else that I don't know about, but I see. By the end of July, when our hands were a little free, we uprooted that currant. The compost heap was ripe by July and went with a bang for planting strawberries! When watering, I added Baikal to the water.

The vegetables grew strong and healthy. In the current drought, I was not worn out by watering. Mulch saved me. But the cold at night (all summer in the afternoon 25-30, at night 8-14) still did their job. Rich ovary and not a single red tomato until early August. Now just a little went. Not covered, the pepper is stuck with fruits ..

Potatoes in ordinary beds, 3-5 medium and small from a bush. 9 large potatoes were dug out on one dug in a bed with hay, processed by Baikal!

Mulching is a wonderful technique, and I am now a zealous supporter of it. But in Siberia, mulch is good only after the soil is thoroughly warmed up. Otherwise, you can achieve the opposite result - keep the roots cold. There were no problems with weeds, and there were so many weed seeds in the ground that I thought I would hang around in the beds, endlessly pulling the weeds all summer. The sow thistle just pulled all summer. Yes, in August bindweed climbed through the mulch.
Narrow beds with wide aisles - beauty! Convenient to handle. In the aisles, I cut the grass with a hoe, a flat cutter. And how the ravens like to grow in the wild!

There was no Baikal in the beds of cucumber, carrot, garlic. The result is appropriate. The carrots were sowed three times. Cucumbers are only for food. Medium garlic.
Yes, the irga sprayed with Baikal M5 is sweet and tasty. I did not spray the second bush - they gave it to the birds. The taste is really different.

Nadezhda Suvorova Internet
Russia, Kirov region, Kotelnich

20 years ago, I first thought about the benefits and dangers of chemical. preparations for the garden. That year there were so many aphids on the oblelikh that the leaves stopped developing. I planted karbofos and processed the plants. The aphids immediately fell to the ground, dead. But where to pour the remainder of karbofos, I had to think carefully, tk. all around were living organisms that could suffer from it. Since then I have stopped using plant protection products.

When I learned from the literature that plant health depends on the health of the soil and the content of useful organic matter in it, as well as on how many beneficial microorganisms are contained in the soil and how they are located in it, I began to be very careful about the soil and its inhabitants. ... We began to use minimal tillage, completely abandoning digging with a shovel and even a pitchfork. We loosen with a flat cutter or a hiller to a depth of 5-10 cm. We either cut or pull out all the weeds and put them in piles into furrows to feed the worms.

I water the soil with "Baikal" and EM-extract, I'm not afraid of an overdose. To kill aphids on beans, I use EPIN or Zircon and EM extract on nettles. I collect the Colorado potato beetle by hand from the very beginning of its appearance and crush the clutch with leaves. Gradually, he stopped living on our site, and only sometimes beetles from neighboring sites visit.

Slugs were very annoying, especially in wet years. Now I destroy with regular ash, sprinkling slugs late at night or early in the morning (around 5 am). 2-3 treatments, and the harm from slugs is minimal. (Ash should be poured directly onto the slug, and not onto the soil).

Phytophthora is almost never found on potatoes and tomatoes, and we do not use it in anything except ZIRCON, EPIN and "BAIKAL-EM1" or EM-extract on nettles.
Carrot and onion flies ceased to harm when they began to use joint planting of onions and garlic with carrots (on the same bed)
To scare off nematodes throughout the site, I plant marigold seedlings in free places.
For the prevention of peronosporosis on onions, I treat with EPIN, ZIRCON AND HB-1 (a homeopathic preparation from Japan) and of course all watering only with the addition of EM-extract on nettle (about half a glass per bucket) or with liquid fertilizer from nettle, burdock and other useful plants (about half a liter per bucket).

Here is a very non-standard and interesting experience of using Baikal EM1, which I learned from personal correspondence with Svetlana Zasadishina (Russia, Volga Federal District, Tatarstan)

Alexander, I use Baikal like this: I add to my drink, about 1 tbsp. a spoonful of the drug (of course not a concentrate) in a bucket of water. And also, especially in summer, I spray over the area of ​​the barn where my cattle lives. And I live with rabbits, goats, chickens and geese. All live under one roof, but are separated by partitions. For spraying, I dilute a solution of 1: 2 (1 part of the drug and 2 parts of water), I process it 2 times a week in the summer, and once every 2 weeks in the winter. With this treatment, there is practically no smell, and in the summer it significantly reduces the number of flies, which is also important. I add to the drink every day, starting from the 1st day, as the chickens (goslings) hatch, and there is no diarrhea. We breed animals for only the third year, therefore, practice on animals and poultry is also such a time.

An example from practice - two years ago, for the first time, they purchased 10 4-month-old laying hens. and 40-day-old broiler chickens are also 10 pcs. (they used to live in the city and kept only a cat from livestock). We went to buy with a neighbor, she took only broilers and also 10 heads. When they brought them home, it turned out that the broiler chickens had diarrhea (like they almost walked with water). I immediately began to add "Baikal" to my drink, and my neighbor bought something from the pharmacy. Literally 4 days later, my chicks began to normally cope with their needs. I gave my neighbor a little "Baikal", but she apparently did not understand me and poured them the whole jar (about 300 ml), of course, her chickens did not die from this, but they did not recover either. As a result, after 2 months I saw only 4 broiler chickens in her yard, and then some sluggish and not big ones. We all survived and looked much larger than their neighbors. Then my husband and I decided to have thoroughbred chickens and bought eggs of the Brama and Cochinchins breed (these are upholstered chickens of the meat direction) at a price of 80 rubles! for the testicle. They brought out the chickens with an incubator and immediately began to give them water with "Baikal" at the rate of 0.7 liters of water 1 tsp. "Baikal". And she also gave them the usual food for chickens - a boiled egg, small cereals, chopped grass, then cottage cheese, etc. The owner from whom we bought chicken eggs, when he found out that I was giving grass to my chicks, almost fell into a frostbite and told me all sorts of different things that it turns out that grass is contraindicated for such chickens, that they need to be fed only with special compound feed for up to 4 months. chickens, and that we can already say goodbye to our chicks, because they will open diarrhea from the grass, and this is no longer curable. But to his regret, and to my joy, nothing of the kind happened, and now in our yard the handsome Kohi and Brahma are walking. I think it's thanks to Baikal.

That's basically all. Well, of course I water garden crops. I also read about the use of "Baikal" in a pigsty on the site farmer.ru. There the man describes in detail how he gives "Baikal" to his pigs (he does not have a farm, but a private backyard), and the results of the application - he also writes that there is no smell, that there is savings in feed, a large weight gain, etc. .d. And he gives specific figures.

Experience in the use of organic, microbiological and green fertilizers in a collective garden.

Having repeatedly observed a sharp depletion of the land after heavy rains, manifested in the form of general and interveinal chlorosis, as a certified agronomist, I came to the conclusion that in light and light loamy soils, which occupy most of the territory of our garden, there is a lack of bound forms of magnesium and nitrogen. In a garden, the potential fertility of soils (exchangeable and organically bound forms of nutrients) can be increased by systematic composting, green manure cultivation (cultivation of green fertilizers for subsequent incorporation into the ground: white mustard or oil radish), and the application of long-acting ABA fertilizer.

This approach to agriculture forms the basis of an organic farming system, which involves the restoration and increase of soil fertility by making composts, mulching the soil, and feeding vegetative plants with infusions of various organic matter, including herbs. The basic principles of organic farming are 1) the use of slow-acting fertilizers that do not cause significant increasing the concentration of soil solution (for example, rotted compost, poorly soluble types of mineral fertilizers: phosphate rock, AVA1), that is, they do not cause chemical burns of the roots and do not suppress beneficial microorganisms. 2) the use of herbal infusions with insecticidal2 or fungicidal3 effects for plant protection. In recent years, a modern direction of organic farming has emerged - EM-technology, which implies the use of so-called "effective microorganisms" (according to the definition of the Japanese professor Teruo Higa - the developer of the world's first EM drug "Kyussey EM-1" The Russian analogue of Kyussey is called Baikal EM-1 ". EM-technology provides for the introduction of EM-compost - compost from the same materials, but spilled with a fertilizer solution Baikal EM-1, which includes a set of microorganisms that accelerate the maturation of compost and increase its fertilizing value. And feeding vegetative plants with EM-solution ( 1 tablespoon of Baikal in a bucket of water) or EM-extract (infusion of weeds, fermented with EM)

Now I will turn to experiments and observations. The most effective fertilizer in EM technologies - EM compost has shown itself very well here. Our family became convinced of the greater efficiency of EM compost compared to the usual compost for plants after using it on cabbage and "strawberries" (scientifically - garden strawberries). So, under the cabbage, I applied it only 2/3 of the recommended dose, and the heads of cabbage were no less than those of gardeners applying ordinary compost or manure and much larger than on plants for which only mineral fertilizers were applied. For example, the largest heads of cabbage reached 24 cm in diameter and weighed about 10 kg.

Now I will tell you about my experience in growing strawberries using EM technology. In the fall of last year, when laying the beds, in the middle of it I dug a trench deep into the bayonet of a shovel, filled it with EM compost and covered it with earth removed from the trench, after that, as usual, I made holes, poured a handful of ash into each and planted a mustache. For comparison, I planted a mustache of 2 varieties: Ruby pendant and Carmen. This year, at the end of flowering - the beginning of the formation of green berries, and during ripening, watered with a solution of Baikal (hereinafter EM-solution) (1 tablespoon per bucket of water). As a result, firstly, the yield from annual bushes was not lower than that of 2- and 3-year-old bushes in other beds, and secondly, by the end of summer, very powerful mustaches with leaf sizes and the lengths of root systems were no less than those of adult plants.

I'll tell you about other cultures as well. Tomatoes responded well to feeding with Baikal solution. For example, the seedlings underdeveloped by the time they were planted in the greenhouse, after feeding, almost caught up in height with plants from good seedlings. In addition, in the beds watered with the solution of Lake Baikal, the tomatoes bloomed earlier, and the fruits ripened earlier.

I also noticed the stimulating and rejuvenating effect of Baikal fertilizer on apple and red currants. A young apple tree seedling with a badly damaged root

Galina Kocherga
Russia, Southern Federal District, Rostov Region, Rostov-on-Don

I don’t understand why you need molasses, honey, etc. I put manure in the bath (any)
I breed the caps of Baikal in a bucket of warm water from the summer cottage, pour it into the
manure, top up to the edges of the water and wait 2 weeks. green foam appears and
ready. After digging with the introduction of such a "compost" with plants
miracles work. Apple trees from the spring pruning site "shoot" by 1-1.5
m., roses go crazy give 6-10 flowers on a branch, all fruit
trees, shrubs and grapes bear fruit 1.5 times more! Vivat
Baikal and its creators! (My soil is sandy, just dung like that
the earth was useless, the black soil that was brought to the country also flew into the sand, and
here everything is different, the eye rejoices!) Yes, there were also earthworms before
2-3 for 6 acres, and now it's a caraul, even if you sell it to fishermen!


Ash solution for plant nutrition

Many do not even suspect (and I, after acquiring a summer residence, due to the lack of personal experience on relevant issues), what valuable properties a solution of ash (fertilizer from yeast, Epin, potassium permanganate,.) Possesses in growing a variety of plants. Wood ash is a natural compound, and a solution from it can become a faithful assistant to the farmer (in our version, the owner of the plot) in his work. Making a solution from ash is not at all difficult.

It won't be financially burdensome. It won't take much time either. But you get an excellent fertilizer. And it is also a kind of pesticide, fungicide.

Excellent ash is born in a fire, diluted from unnecessary organic matter at the end of the summer season - clipped vines of grapes, sawed down branches and trees, dried raspberries, currants, etc. (but you can also burn them in the spring when they dry out, and add frozen over the winter) ... Fire kills absolutely all insects, fungi, viruses. Anything that carries a potential threat should not be sent to overheat - a fire is more reliable.


Weed purslane garden.

I would like to know how to deal with a dangerous weed. True, I do not know its botanical name. It spreads on the ground, the leaves are small, green, the flowers are yellow. The neighbor says that he also multiplies with leaves.

Most likely you mean garden purslane. There is its cultural form, but the purslane is able to quickly run wild and literally conquer the garden, becoming a weed. He has all the abilities for this.

For example, that one bush of the garden purslane gives thousands of seeds. And your neighbor is almost right: if you do not remove the spilled shoots of this plant from the garden, they will quickly form roots in the nodes of the shoots and take root. For this, rain or watering is enough, and if they are not there, then the fleshy and juicy shoots, possessing a considerable supply of nutrients, are able to wait for life-giving moisture. The purslane is not very worried about its fate, even being uprooted, but left on the loose garden soil. If it is even a little sprinkled with moist soil, then its existence will continue.

With such an abundance of seeds smaller than poppy seeds, it is important not to let the purslane bloom (and this he does two or three times a year) so that they do not fall into the soil. Deep digging of the soil in autumn or spring also helps. Once at great depths, the purslane seeds do not have enough strength to germinate.

You should not weed the entire continuous carpet of purslane in a row, otherwise you will get many shoots that will be difficult to collect and remove from the site. It is better to cut the plant at the root, and to a depth of at least two centimeters. The fact is that the root neck of the purslane is underground, if it is not cut off, new shoots will soon appear. In the compost heap, it will be beneficial.


Liquid green fertilizer

There is a way to obtain effective organic fertilizer much faster than long-term composting of plant residues. These are infusions, liquid fertilizers.

Why are these green fertilizers good?:

  • First, they are absorbed by the plant immediately.
  • Secondly, due to the alkaline reaction of the solution, the acidity of the soil decreases.
  • Thirdly, many microorganisms enter the soil, the secretions of which have a protective effect.

How to Prepare Liquid Green Fertilizer

There are many recipes for making liquid fertilizer from green plants. This recipe is one of the most common.

A green mass of cut grass, tops, weeds cut directly from the roots, stepchildren, (grass can even be loaded with seeds) is put into the barrel about 3/4 (you can also "to the eyeballs"), and all this is filled with water to the top.

It remains to cover the top of the barrel. You can use a plastic wrap (then make a couple of holes in it for gas exchange), or you can just use any improvised lid. It is advisable to fix the film with tape or rope.

The resulting mixture is left for infusion and fermentation. A week and a half, and the green fertilizer is ready for use. Its color is dull green-yellow, the smell is corresponding to the fermented grass.

The following video will acquaint us in detail with the practical technology of making liquid green fertilizer. Konstantin, an experienced summer resident, shows and tells how this is done:

How to use liquid green fertilizer

The resulting infusion for dressing is used in a ratio of 1:10, that is, 1 liter of infusion per bucket of water. You should not make top dressing "thicker" - you can only harm the plant and burn its roots, as the infusion turns out to be quite concentrated. If you really want to make the top dressing "stronger", conduct the experiment first on one plant, and only then put all the beds at risk.

After using all the infusion, the remaining grass can be poured over with water again and in a day or two can be used for irrigation without dilution.

Olga Platonova talks about her recipe for complex liquid green fertilizer in the next video.


Watch the video: Κήπος εμπλουτισμός εδάφους με κομπόστ και ασβέστη.


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