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Garden plants
Garden bindweed belongs to the genus Bindweed (lat. Convolvulus) of the Bindweed family. There are more than 250 plant species in this genus, the main unifying feature of which is the shape of the flowers. Representatives of the genus grow in areas with a temperate and subtropical climate. The genus's scientific name comes from the Latin verb meaning "to curl up," and explains the need for many species to twine stems around other plants, using them as a support.
The most common bindweed is the field bindweed - the same bindweed that affects crops and private gardens.
Read more about cultivating bindweed below.
Bindweed life forms are numerous. Annual and perennial bindweeds are found in nature. They can be herbaceous plants or shrubs with erect or creeping stems up to 4 m long. Bindweed have creeping rhizomes with filiform roots. The leaves of plants of this genus are usually simple, whole, alternate, petiolate, lobed or serrated, arrow-shaped or cordate. The flowers that open early in the morning are located in the axils one or three at a time, or are collected in inflorescences. The corolla of flowers is bell-shaped or funnel-shaped with barely pronounced lobes. The fruit is a box with seeds that remain viable for 2-3 years.
A bindweed in the garden is a nightmare for any gardener, but a bindweed ornamental plant is a fast-growing liana that landscape designers are willingly used. Its bright greenery, flexible shoots and delicate flowers can drape any vertical surface. The bindweed flower propagates only by the seed method. To achieve maximum masking of an object with a bindweed in a short time, it is advisable to use the seedling method of plant propagation.
For seedlings, bindweed seeds are sown in March, after holding them in water for a day. They are laid out in separate cups with drainage holes for the outflow of excess water, filled with moist compost soil or soil mixture consisting of one part of peat and two parts of fertile soil. Sprinkle the seeds on top with loose soil and lightly press it with your hands. Do not plant bindweed in a common box, because it does not tolerate a pick badly. They contain crops at a temperature of 18-20 ºC, irrigate regularly, and after two weeks you can expect the emergence of seedlings.
Bindweed seedlings need moistening the soil as it dries up and feeding with a solution of mineral fertilizer in a weak concentration every two weeks.
As soon as warm weather sets in and the threat of recurrent frosts has passed, bindweed seedlings, after preliminary hardening, are planted in the ground. Usually the necessary conditions arise in mid-May, although there are years when bindweed seedlings have to be planted in the first decade of June.
Choose a well-lit place for the plant: under the bright sun, the bindweed vine will bloom for a long time and profusely. The plant needs a permeable soil, preferably loamy, although in general the bindweed is not picky about the composition of the soil.
The site for the bindweed must be prepared in advance: dig it up, adding 2-3 kg of peat to each m² of the area, and level it. Before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly so that they can be easily removed from the cups. Seedlings are planted by transferring seedlings into holes located at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other. After planting and embedding, the seedlings are watered again.
One of the important points in caring for a bindweed is watering it, which should be regular and sufficient. Moisture deficiency can lead to shedding of the buds, but too much moisture will not benefit the plant either. In an ordinary summer with normal rainfall, you can not worry about the state of the bindweed, but if it is hot, do not forget to water it, especially if you are growing an ampelous Moorish species.
For the rest, caring for the bindweed is simple: weeding the plant will be required only after planting, and as soon as the bindweed gets stronger, it is no longer afraid of any weeds. Growing bindweed may require setting up supports, and the sooner you do this, the better. Direct the bindweed shoots along the supports in time, and if the plant has spread too much, you can carry out partial pruning without any harm to the bindweed. There is no need to remove wilted flowers, or to make additional fertilizing, but if it seems to you that the bindweed is not growing fast enough or does not bloom well, feed it with a solution of 1 tablespoon of Agricola for flowering plants and 1 tablespoon of Nitrophoska in 10 liters of water at the rate of 2.5- 3 liters per 1 m² of planting. You can also sprinkle wood ash under the bush.
Bindweed is very rare, pests do not bother him either. Sometimes powdery mildew may appear on it, for which the plant is treated with a Bordeaux mixture or other fungicide. It damages bindweed aphids, which will help you get rid of acaricides - Actellik, Antitlin or Aktara.
The bindweed is grown in an annual crop, but if you want to preserve it, dig it up, transplant it into a pot, and let it overwinter in a bright, frost-free room. In the spring he can be planted again in the garden. But since the bindweed reproduces well by self-sowing, you will most likely see fresh seedlings of the plant in the place where it grew last year in the spring.
When you look at a well-groomed garden bindweed, you just can't believe that its field relative can cause a lot of trouble for gardeners. But this perennial has amazing vitality and endurance. He is able to strangle any plant in his tenacious embrace, and if you find a modest bush of field bindweed in your garden or vegetable garden, start fighting with him immediately. Try to pull all the roots out of the ground with a rake. If you failed to do this, and the weed began to take over the garden, you will have to resort to herbicides - Tornado, Roundup or Lintur preparations. Start by applying "pinpoint hits" and repeat the treatment several times.
With the total occupation of the site by field bindweed in early spring, while you have not planted anything yet, dig up the soil, rake out all the root segments, then cover the area with a dark material that does not transmit light - roofing material or black film: without access to oxygen and light, with strong heating bindweed is unlikely to be able to survive. But just in case, on this site this year, do not plant anything other than white mustard, which will not give the weed a single chance to survive. You can also sow fescue or bluegrass.
If a bindweed appears in an already sown garden, you will have to weed daily, and the roots and stems of the bindweed with seeds must be burned. It is best to use herbicides on a spot or post-harvest basis. In the fall, the soil is dug deeply, the roots of the bindweed are extracted and burned. Resist the temptation to put them in compost because they may sprout again.
There are not so many garden species of bindweed. We will present you the most popular ones.
It is an excellent plant for hanging baskets and containers, the shoots of which, covered with delicate gray-green leaves, reach a length of 50 cm. The flowers of this species are most often of a light lilac shade.
Originally from Asia, Siberia and the Caucasus, where it grows on dry mountain slopes, along sandy river banks and in mountain steppes. It has recumbent, ascending, slightly curly stems 30-40 cm long, naked or pubescent, arrow-shaped leaves on petioles 3 to 7 cm long and single pink flowers on long peduncles.
It is a herbaceous annual, densely branched plant native to the western Mediterranean. Its stems are pubescent, creeping and ascending. Leaves are linear-lanceolate, sessile, entire, pointed, dull green, glabrous or slightly rough. Axillary flowers up to 4 cm in diameter on short pedicels have a regular funnel-shaped shape. The bend of the corolla is bright blue, the middle part is white, and the pharynx is yellow. The species is represented by forms with purple-blue, pink, white, purple and blue flowers and several interesting varieties:
The star bindweed, which is otherwise called the lobed quamoclite, or the morning glory Mina Lobata, or the Spanish flag, although it is a vine, does not belong to the genus Bindweed.
Sections: Garden plants Perennials Herbaceous Flowering Annuals Weeds Semi-shrubs Lianas Bindweed Plants on V
This representative of malvaceous plants is not able to boast of an abundance of varieties and species. In total, there are no more than 25 of them, and even less take root in the middle lane. The most common here is the three-month lavatera. Its lush bushes with bright gramophone flowers are easy to fill the space. But the main thing is that you don't have to worry too much about watering, feeding, sheltering, pruning, etc. - the culture is surprisingly unpretentious.
The three-month-old lava is an annual, and its name indicates the period of development of the bush. That is how much it takes from the moment of planting to the day when the buds open. The height of the plant is quite large - 1.2 m is an average. With such dimensions, the bush has very strong, powerful roots. The leaves are heart-shaped. The diameter of the flowers reaches 10 cm, and they themselves are located either in the axils of the leaves, or at the top of the bush.
The shade will depend on the specific variety. For example, the Silver Cup sometimes blooms with bright pink flowers. Although the main shade for him is lilac with a silver tint. MontBlanc, so beloved by Russian gardeners, has white petals. And Beauty is an almost multi-colored variety: here you can find deep carmine, neon pink, and soft white specimens.
Any type of lavater loves sunny places, light and nutritious soil. Heavy clay soil will not work for the plant, especially if it is also often flooded. It is desirable that there is no active wind blowing in this part, although high-quality air exchange is necessary for the Lavater. Low varieties (up to 60 cm) take root well in flower beds, and high ones will become wonderful living fences. Moreover, the flowering of the lavater continues until the end of October. After that, the bushes are removed, leaving only perennial varieties.
It is a perennial or annual herb or shrub. It reaches a height of 4 m, has creeping or erect stems, a creeping root system with filamentous roots.
Whole, alternate leaves are located on petioles. They are arrow-shaped or heart-shaped, with teeth or divided into blades.
Flowers are arranged singly or in inflorescences in the axils of greenery. Their shape is funnel-shaped or bell-shaped, while the blades are poorly expressed. Opens petals in the early morning, only in clear weather.
After flowering, fruits begin to form. These are capsules containing seeds. They retain their germination capacity for 2-3 years after harvesting.
Basically, this vine is propagated by seeds. First, they are germinated indoors, creating the most favorable conditions for the development of young plants. A few months later, with the onset of stable warm weather, the mature seedlings are moved to a permanent place in the open ground.
Kobei flowers acquire the characteristic color of the variety gradually.
The dates for planting seeds of kobei climbing seedlings, as a rule, come at the end of February or at the beginning of March. They should be planned taking into account the 2-3 days required for pre-sowing preparation, and a couple of weeks that will be required for germination.
For young seedlings of climbing kobei, the following planting containers are suitable:
The potting mix should be loose, light and nutritious. The following composition is quite suitable for climbing kobei seedlings:
Since the seeds of kobei climbing usually do not germinate well, they need mandatory pre-sowing preparation and preliminary germination. It is also important to plant on time, otherwise you can not wait for flowering.
First of all, the seed material of the climbing kobei should be soaked for some time in a growth stimulant solution. Its composition may be as follows:
After processing, the seeds of the climbing kobei must be dried in the air, and then carefully laid out on gauze, a cloth napkin, a piece of toilet paper folded in several layers so that they do not touch.The fabric needs to be moistened, covered with cling film and placed in a warm (about + 22-25 ° C) shaded place. The condition of the seeds of the climbing cobei should be monitored every day. If plaque or mold is visible on them, the film should be lifted and gently wiped with a cloth moistened with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After about 2 weeks, some of the seed will germinate.
Seeds have low germination and need preliminary soaking and germination
The algorithm for planting seeds of climbing kobei is simple:
The subtleties of caring for seedlings of climbing kobei at the initial stage are reduced to the following points:
After the appearance of the first true leaf, the seedlings of the climbing kobei should be dived together with a lump of earth into separate pots with a capacity of about 3 liters.
Caring for them will need to be supplemented with the following measures:
Among the many types of nemesia, there are those that are ideal for decorating balconies, and there are those that should be grown outdoors. The most popular among gardeners are the types and varieties described below.
The height of the bushes is about 0.4 m. On the tops of the stems there are small delicate flowers of a light blue color. This species is still not very popular in gardening today, but every year it can be found in gardens more and more often.
This annual is a South African species. Thin, highly branched shoots in height can reach 0.25 m. Flowers are small. Thanks to this plant, a huge number of hybrids were born. The most popular varieties:
The height of this highly branched annual plant varies from 0.35 to 0.4 m. The upper leaf plates are linear, and the lower sessile ones are oval. The shape of the flowers is irregular, they are swollen, do not have spurs and have a drooping throat, reach 2.5 cm in diameter. They can be colored pink, yellow, red or orange, there are varieties with a variegated color. Cultivated since 1892 The most popular varieties:
This species includes all hybrids obtained by crossing the multicolored nemesia and goiter nemesia. Most often, the height of such annual plants does not exceed 0.3–0.6 m. Elongated, almost lanceolate leaf plates are crenate along the edge. Large (about 20 mm in diameter) irregular flowers with a two-lipped corolla are part of the apical racemes. This type in specialized stores can be purchased, as a rule, only in mixed varieties, while their main difference is the height of the bushes:
You can also purchase individual varieties, the most popular of which are:
Sanzatiya (ampelous nemesia) is an interspecific triploid hybrid. He was born in 2009 thanks to German breeders who crossed an annual and perennial nemesia. At the moment, there are only 8 ampel varieties. Their color is similar to exotic fruits, which influenced the choice of their names: Coconut, Blackberry, Pineapple, Cranberry, Lemon, Peach, Banana and Mango. At the same time, only varieties belong to ampelous: Coconut, Pineapple, Lemon, Banana and Cranberry, the rest of the varieties have erect peduncles.
