Sparmania (indoor sticky)


A plant like sparmania has a more common name - indoor linden... For a novice florist, this plant may seem boring and not very spectacular. However, indoor linden is the largest tree that is grown at home, and it may well surprise its owners both pleasantly and not very much. The flowers of this plant are able to enchant with their unusual beauty, and the large leaves, which give a clear resemblance to trees growing in the wild, can fill the room with freshness and create coziness. On closer examination of sparmania, you begin to understand that it actually has a very spectacular and unusual appearance. However, despite all its beauty, such a tree is not so easy to grow at home. It is more capricious than many exotic plants and requires constant attention and compliance with all the rules for care.

Sparmania in the interior

This tree is directly related to indoor giants. This is how plants are called, which over the years become very large shrubs or trees. Sparmania belongs to the mallow family, and it is equally beautiful both during the flowering period, when the tree is covered with lovely flowers, and the rest of the time. The homeland of these beautiful "modest women" is South Africa and Madagascar.

Although the linden tree is the most massive houseplant, it can make any room cozy thanks to its unusual appearance. It is able to visually expand the room, while creating a variety of optical illusions. And this is all thanks to the large leaves, which create the impression of the airiness of the crown, and also the tiered silhouette of this plant is strongly noticeable. Compared to other house trees of a large size, it is sparmania that can create the effect of a green jungle in the room, and at the same time it will not seem that the space is overweight. This tree can single-handedly decorate any room of the right size.

Features of sparmania African

The genus sparmania has many different species, but at the same time only one can be grown in an apartment - African sparmania (Sparmannia africana). But at present, there is debate regarding the fact that African sparmania is a separate species (this also applies to other representatives of lindens growing in South Africa). Today this tree has an uncertain status, since they are trying to attribute it to two different genera at once. Despite these disputes, flower growers are happy to grow this tree, referring it to a separate type of sparmania.

This evergreen plant is presented in the form of a shrub that develops in a tree-like form. Over the years, it often has one central rather thick stem. Over time, a rather graceful plant grows into a spectacular giant. In height, indoor linden can reach from 50 to 250 centimeters. Today, the most popular are dwarf forms that grow no higher than 80 centimeters.

Young erect stems have a dull yellowish color, as well as pubescence. Over time, the bark becomes lignified and brown in color. The straight stems accentuate the airiness of the mating, and they are quite pleasant to the touch. However, touching the plant is not recommended, as contact with the leaves on the skin surface may cause irritation. Large, heart-shaped leaves are divided into angular small lobes, which is very similar to a hybrid of mallow and grape foliage. Along the edge of the leaves are quite large denticles, which is why the foliage has a very sophisticated appearance, however, due to their monochromatic dark green color and large size, they may not seem as spectacular as in other decorative leafy plants popular among flower growers. By the way, the leaves, as well as young shoots, have pubescence on both sides.

Indoor sticky can charm anyone with its delicate bloom, which is reminiscent of primroses growing in the garden. Flowers are collected in umbellate inflorescences, located on the top of the stems. The petals are painted white, but the long stamens, collected in bunches, have a rather bright color. So, they are bright yellow at the base, and purple at the edge. The most spectacular flowers are given by the wavy edges of the petals, bent back. The buds are very delicate and somewhat reminiscent of cyclamen, but after they bloom, they radically change their appearance. So, a bright fluffy bunch of stamens sticks out from the center, and they are surrounded by snow-white translucent petals with a yellowish speck at the base, which create a semblance of a skirt. Delicate and very beautiful flowering is favorably emphasized by peduncles, on the surface of which there is also pubescence. There is a variety of African Sparmania "Flora Plena", which has very spectacular double flowers. Flowering is observed in winter. So, most often it begins in February and lasts until mid-spring, but it happens that flowers flaunt on a tree from December to March.

Sparmania care at home

This large shrub from a florist will require special attention and daily care. It is not suitable for inexperienced florists. Plus, indoor sticky takes up quite a lot of space and is suitable for growing in fairly spacious rooms. She just needs a cool wintering for normal growth and development. This plant needs fresh air and therefore the room should be regularly ventilated, which is very difficult, since sparmania reacts extremely negatively to drafts. The easiest to care for is feeding, watering and rare transplants. However, this plant loves moisture so much that maintaining it at a suitable level is a task for an experienced grower. However, despite all the difficulties, it is quite possible to successfully grow sparmania in an apartment.

Illumination

This plant simply adores the sun, and therefore should be placed exclusively in well-lit areas. In the summer, it should be borne in mind that direct sunlight should not fall on the foliage. However, the lighting must necessarily be good and even an average partial shade is not suitable for placing a tree.

Sparmania needs bright and diffused lighting throughout the year. Due to the fact that there is relatively less sunlight in winter, the tree should be moved to a more illuminated place. Best of all, during this period, the most illuminated window sill in the apartment is suitable. In the absence of a suitable well-lit place, additional lighting can be provided to the plant. She perfectly replaces natural lighting at this time. By the way, artificial lighting can replace natural lighting throughout the year, so indoor sticky feels quite well in the back of the room.

Temperature regime

This plant is characterized by a period of intensive growth and development, and a dormant period, while each of them has its own temperature. So, when the tree begins to actively grow, you must try to keep the room constantly warm, but, during rest, it needs relative coolness. In spring and summer, it is necessary to provide a temperature of 20-25 degrees. But even at a higher temperature, the plant will feel normal. However, only if the humidity of the air is also increased. With the onset of the autumn period and until the end of winter sparmania, it is necessary to provide a coolness of 10-12 degrees, which is quite problematic in an apartment with central heating. If the room is colder, then this can provoke a partial discharge of leaves, disrupt the development of the tree and even seriously damage it. If, during this period, the room sticky is put in a warm place, then the flowering may stop abruptly, and this will also have an extremely negative effect on the decorative effect of the crown.

However, this plant gives the grower more trouble because it hates stagnant air. And this implies frequent ventilation, and at the same time, it reacts negatively even to a relatively small draft. The air currents moving during ventilation can significantly harm the plant, especially if they are cold. In this regard, it must be protected from drafts as much as possible before airing. But it is even more complicated by the fact that sparmania has a very negative attitude towards stagnant air, and therefore the ventilation of the room must be carried out regularly, even in winter. The plant also does not tolerate hot air currents coming from heating devices. If you place a tree next to them, this will worsen the decorative effect of the leaves, and in some cases, spots may even form on their surface. Indoor sticky should not be carried outside in summer.

How to water and moisture

Due to the fact that sticky has rather large leaves, it has a relatively high need for moisture. So, during the period of intensive growth, it must be watered abundantly, while the substrate in the pot must be constantly slightly moistened. Watering is carried out as the top layer of the soil dries up, after it dries out to a depth of 1 centimeter, and it is better if it is not frequent, but very abundant. After 5-6 minutes after the plant is watered, the water must be drained from the pan. With the onset of the autumn period, the tree needs to be watered less and less each time. In winter, watering should be moderate and fairly rare. However, it is imperative to ensure that the soil in the pot does not dry out completely. To avoid overdrying the earthen coma, it is necessary to water it after a day or two, after the top layer of the substrate has dried.

The difficulty of caring for sparmania lies in the fact that she is very fond of high humidity. This plant will feel great only if an air humidifier is located in the immediate vicinity of it, and you can do it yourself. Spraying indoor sticky is not recommended. The fact is that if large drops appear on the foliage, then a blackish speck will appear in this place, which will not disappear. Therefore, it is best to use the smallest spray nozzle for spraying, and spray water from the greatest possible distance. And it is best to carry out this procedure only when absolutely necessary. Due to the pubescence on the foliage, it is impossible to arrange shower for this plant, and still it is not necessary to wipe the accumulated dirt with a damp sponge.

Fertilizer

Sparmania should be fed only in the spring-summer period 3 times a month. For this, mineral and organic fertilizers are suitable, which must be applied to the soil alternately. They can be replaced with a complex mixture of a universal type. While the dormant period lasts, fertilization cannot be applied to the soil. And also the foliar feeding method should be excluded, because the plant reacts negatively to spraying.

Pruning

Room sticky, with spectacular foliage and lovely flowers, just needs systematic pruning. With the help of this procedure, not only a spectacular crown is formed, but also the abundance of flowering increases, and the growth of stems is accelerated. Pruning should be done after the plant has faded. Experienced flower growers recommend only trimming a little tops of the shoots or trimming no more than a third of the stem. After this procedure, the intensive growth of sparmania will begin only with the onset of the spring period.

In the event that the leaves of the plant begin to fall off after flowering, deep pruning of the shoots is necessary, which will allow the tree to rejuvenate.

Both a young and an adult plant, in addition to pruning, will also need to regularly pinch the apical part of the stems. As a rule, only young branches of an adult plant are pinched, and this procedure is also carried out systematically in the first years of life at room temperature.

Transplant features and suitable soil mixture

This plant does not have any special requirements for the soil mixture. So, in order to make a suitable earthen mixture, it is necessary to combine leafy and humus earth, with coarse sand, which should be taken in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. If desired, you can purchase ready-made universal soil in a special store.

Once a year, only young specimens are transplanted, which are relatively small in size. In the event that by the end of summer the young tree has grown very strongly, and the root system has filled almost the entire pot, it can be transplanted a second time. The main transplant should be carried out at the beginning of the spring period. An older large plant should be transplanted only once every 2-3 years and only after the roots become cramped in the old pot.

A suitable pot should be tall and not too wide. It is recommended to transplant by transshipment, while the earthen lump itself should not be destroyed. It is only necessary to replace the top layer of the earth. Be sure to add a sufficiently high drainage layer at the bottom of the pot.

Pests and diseases

Mealybugs or spider mites often settle on spectacular large leaves. But it should be borne in mind that if you constantly maintain high humidity in the room, then problems with harmful insects should not arise. Sparmania is quite rare. It is often recommended to use a warm shower to combat such pests, but it is not suitable for this plant. It is best to treat it with special insecticides and place the tree in conditions appropriate for its normal growth and development.

The most common problems with growing linden are:

  1. The foliage loses its bright color, and brownish spots form on its surface - this is the fault of the direct rays of the sun falling on the plant.
  2. The leaves dry and curl - the room temperature is too high or the soil has dried out.
  3. The stems become elongated, gradually turn yellow and the foliage flies - the plant does not have enough light, move it to a place with more intense lighting.
  4. The growth of sparmania has stopped - this may indicate that the mode of fertilizing the soil is violated.
  5. The tree does not bloom - this may be due to improper wintering, as well as a lack of fertilizers during the period of intensive growth.

Reproduction methods

This plant can be propagated very easily and quickly. For this, both apical cuttings and seeds are used, while both in the first and in the second case, sufficiently strong and sturdy plants grow. Also, young specimens grown from both stem and seed grow quite quickly. So, in 1 year they become several times larger.

But how to propagate indoor linden with apical petioles?

For cutting cuttings, not every stem is suitable, but only a flowering one. Stem cuttings must be semi-lignified. They are cut off from the tops of the shoots, while they must have at least three nodes. It has been observed that petioles, which are 70 centimeters long, root best and fastest. For rooting, you can use a container with clean water, and perlite, sand, peat, as well as sand mixed with peat are perfect for this. For successful rooting, it is very important to maintain a constant temperature of 20 degrees.In order for the roots to appear, as soon as possible before rooting, the sections must be treated with any means that stimulates their growth.

How can you grow indoor sticky from seeds?

The main condition for successful cultivation is the right time for sowing the seeds. So, this procedure must be carried out exclusively at the beginning of the spring period. For sowing, choose a versatile and nutrient-rich soil. It must be sieved, and then the surface must be leveled with light movements so as not to compact. Seeds are sown to a depth of about one centimeter. Only after the sowing is completed can the soil be moistened. After that, the container should be covered with transparent film or glass. To place a container with seeds, you need to choose a well-lit place on the windowsill, while you should not forget that the temperature should not be less than 20 degrees. The picking of seedlings in individual pots should be carried out only when they have real leaves. For 1 year, seedlings of room linden are transplanted several times. It is carried out every time after the root system has completely filled the pot. The capacity for transplanting should be taken only slightly larger than the previous one.

Video review


Aloe belongs to succulents, which means it has the general properties of this group of plants:

  • the ability to endure drought for a long time due to the accumulation of moisture in its leaves and stems
  • love of light
  • the difference in care requirements in summer and winter seasons
  • ease of engraftment during transplantation and reproduction.

In winter, watering aloe is enough once a month, the temperature of its content should not exceed 12-14 degrees. Otherwise, the plant will stretch, and if it is located close to heat sources (batteries, stoves, stoves), it may start rot from the roots.

In the spring, a gradual awakening of aloe is recommended by increased watering (up to 1 time per week), exposure to a brighter light. But don't forget that abrupt change in conditionsth environment can be destructively for aloe.

In summer, especially in extreme heat, aloe needs spraying... Young and actively developing plants must be transplanted once a year, and after they reach the age of 5 years, once every three years. The optimal time for transplanting is from February to late autumn. Later, the aloe will be in a state of rest or winter rest, and should not be touched.

When transplanting, it is better to choose a low, but spacious container in width. Give preference to pots from natural materials... For example, clay. Since in the wild, aloe grows in heat and dryness, you should take care not to destroy the flower with an excess of stagnant water. To do this, the bottom of each pot must be filled drainage material (expanded clay, tile or brick chips).

If the soil in the pot being transplanted is very dry, then it should be watered in a day or two. Having transplanted aloe and slightly compacted the soil, you should not get carried away with watering. Mulch with dry soil and leave alone for 5-7 days. Read about how to properly plant a plant here.


How to water flowers while on vacation: do it yourself autowatering

To prevent the flowers from wilting during the holidays, it is necessary to somehow arrange for them automatic watering. Now there are special automatic irrigation systems on sale, but I wanted to do everything simply and with my own hands. I want to offer you several ways that I learned about. I must say right away that they all give a positive result, but you just need to approach each flower individually, because someone loves abundant watering, and someone, on the contrary, is categorically opposed to being poured.

Beforehand, our flowers must be prepared:

  • Remove wilted buds so that they do not pick up excess moisture.
  • Remove flowers from windows and, regardless of their preference for light, put in a shaded place.
  • All methods must be tested in advance in order to correct and understand which is best for watering.
  • On the day of departure, it is good to water the flowers.

Watering flowers by immersion in water

A very convenient way: we put flowers in pots in a large basin and pour water. In this case, it is advisable to put a spongy napkin made of porous fabric under the bottom of the pot, which will absorb and retain moisture. And fill the space around the pots with crumpled newspapers, which will not only hold moisture, but also prevent the rapid evaporation of water.

With this method of watering, the plant will take moisture little by little and without the danger of root rot.

This method is suitable for those plants that like moderate watering, for example, violets.

To be honest, I found out about him long before the trip, and when it came down to it, I forgot about the sponge and newspapers. But I know that in general, flowers from time to time should be placed in a bowl of water for at least a day, so that both the walls of the pot and the roots of the plants are well wet.

I hadn’t performed this procedure for a long time, so before leaving I immersed spathiphyllum, euphorbia and zephyranthes in water. I poured a lot of water and did not dare to put the violets.

All the days of my absence, the flowers, apparently, felt great, the ground remained moderately moist. Spathiphyllum even bloomed while I was away.

So leaving flowers for 10 days is quite possible, I really liked it.

Wick irrigation

I put a bucket of water in the center of the table, and around I placed violets, gloxinia and hippeastrum to accompany them.

She twisted the flagella from the bandage, dipped one edge of them into the water, and the other into the pot with the plant.

Thus, water gradually enters the ground through this wick from the bandage and watering is carried out. To ensure this, the water level in the container must be above the ground level in the pots.

I covered the bucket with a lid so that the water would not evaporate in vain.

And be sure to check the work of the method in advance, determine the acceptable width of the bundle. At first, I tried to twist a bandage 14 cm wide. But after a day, the ground in one experimental pot with gloxinia was too wet, and even the tray was filled with water.

Therefore, at the time of departure, I cut the bandage in half lengthwise, i.e. it was 7 cm wide and my flowers did not wilted during my holidays.

An excellent method, I liked the fact that the width of the bundle can be adjusted to the speed of watering and you can leave the flowers like that for 10-15 days. If the flower is large, then several flagella can be laid to it.

But only with hippeastrum I had a misunderstanding: the wick fell out of the pot and all the water poured onto the table. The plant was not upset because of this, it does not really like water, it seemed to me that it even got prettier and stronger.

But you need to take this point into account and dig the wicks a little into the ground for reliability, and the length of the bundle should be such that its other edge is well immersed in water.

Drip irrigation

Here you need a five-liter bottle of water and a dropper - the same one that is sold at the pharmacy for medical procedures.

All needles are removed from it and a tube is left, which is placed in a bottle, the tip is suspended over the plant.

A clip in the dropper allows you to control the amount of water.

Watering flowers with a dropper is suitable for plants that especially love moisture, such as cyperus, lemon, azalea, begonia.

In this way, you can water the flowers when you leave for a long time, for 2 - 2.5 weeks.

Watering flowers while on vacation: a video, the tips from which I took note of and in which the above methods can be seen visually:

Watering from a bottle

For large plants growing in large pots, you can arrange drip irrigation from a bottle, it is not at all necessary to buy a special dropper.

To do this, water is poured into a plastic bottle, screwed with a lid in which you need to make a small hole, and this structure is installed in a pot.

I was going to water the palm and cyperus, which are sitting in my buckets. But my mistake was that I made the holes with a hot nail, they turned out to be too large, and the liquid dripped at too high a speed.

When using this method of watering, you need to make tiny holes with a needle and check the work a few days before leaving.

I didn’t experiment any more, but simply poured water over the plants well: poured it as usual and poured one and a half liters more. Such watering was enough for them.

Hydrogel

The fact that you can use the hydrogel while on vacation, I learned only now, when I began to write this post.

Hydrogels are small balls that swell in water and release moisture as needed. You can buy the hydrogel at flower shops.

Before leaving, the plant is watered and covered with hydrogel balls on top. And you can safely rest for 10 days, during which time the plants will feel comfortable.

There are probably other ways to water flowers on vacation. Share who knows what, write in the comments. And I was completely tripled by those that I told you about.

Best regards, the author of the blog "Comfort and warmth of my home" Olga Smirnova

Interesting information for you:


Fuchsia flowers.

The decoration of this beautiful and very common "grandmother's" plant is bright graceful original shape of flowers, which by their appearance resemble dancing ballerinas or exotic butterflies hovering and circling in the air. They hang down like lanterns.

Blooms fuchsia abundantly and long. Flowering occurs from May to October. Long tubular fuchsia flowers come in different colors - white, pink, red, purple. Available in double color varieties. Fuchsia flowers there are simple or terry.

Flowers FUCHSIA home. How to grow fuchsia?

Flowers on a thin pedicel, drooping.

Fuchsia flower consists of two parts: a corolla-shaped bright calyx and a tubular corolla with bent leaves. The petals are shorter than the lobes of the calyx, the stamens are longer than the calyx. After flowering fuchsia a fetus is formed.

Flowers FUCHSIA home. How to grow fuchsia?


Gloxinia thick-leaved - stems are massive, short 3 - 5 cm. Bright green leaves 17 - 19 cm long, collected in a rosette. Corolla with a wide-cylindrical, vertically-open tube and a 5-lobed bend.

The color is bright and varied. In many varieties, a white border runs along the edge of the limb. In depth, the tube is usually white with a dotted pattern. Tubers keep well in winter. Flowering 7-8 months after sowing seeds.

Gloxinia grandiflorum has shortened stems, 2 - 5 cm high. The plant is slimmer than the previous one. The corolla is wide open, funnel-shaped, with a 6-lobed bend, 9-11 cm in diameter. In many varieties, the edges are wavy or fringed, almost the entire perianth is painted in deep velvet tones. The tubers are poorly preserved in winter.

Plants bloom 6 to 7 months after sowing seeds. Demanding growing conditions.

Gloxinia large-flowered tiger. Stems up to 7 cm high, leaves are rounded, 12 - 14 cm long, thin and fragile, usually brownish in color. Corolla with a vertically open cuboid tube, with 6 and 7 lobed bends, 9 - 12 cm in diameter. The coloration is spotty, red, blue or brown on a light background.

Tubers overwinter well. In terms of the strength of development and requirements for external conditions, these gloxinia occupy an intermediate position between gloxinia thick-leaved and gloxinia large-flowered.



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