Gooseberry Neslukhovsky - one of the best early varieties

Gooseberry lovers, despite the sharp thorns and, as a result, difficulties in harvesting, plant shrubs of this tasty and healthy berry. Many believe that it is the varieties with a large number of thorns that produce fruit yields that are superior in taste to their thornless counterparts. The gooseberry variety Neslukhovsky has an excellent taste, and is also appreciated for its early ripening, large-fruited and abundant yield. And unpretentious care and excellent frost resistance will allow even novice gardeners to easily grow fruit shrubs.

Description and distinctive features of the Neslukhovsky gooseberry variety

The gooseberry variety Neslukhovsky was bred at the branch of the Institute of Horticulture UAAS by crossing the varieties Plum and Mlievsky red in 1970. Authors - K. N. Kopan, V. P. Kopan, Z. A. Shestopal. Neslukhovsky belongs to the European-American group and is considered one of the most delicious varieties of gooseberries.

The bushes are slightly spreading, with a compact crown of medium density. An adult shrub reaches a height of 1.5–2 m. The branches are strong, thick, do not bend under the weight of the crop. Single and double thorns, perpendicular to the shoot. Gooseberry leaves are five-lobed, rich green, slightly pubescent.

The bush of Neslukhovsky is medium-sized, with strong branches and numerous thorns

Berries of a gooseberry variety Neslukhovsky oval shape. The color is from dark red to purple, with a slight waxy coating. The average weight of the berry is 4-6 g. The taste is sweet and sour, dessert, the pulp is tender and juicy. The skin is dense, smooth, with slight pubescence, strong enough, thanks to which the berries are perfectly transported and stored.

The Neslukhovsky variety is one of the recommended varieties for cultivation in the Moscow region, since it is highly resistant to temperature extremes. The main distinguishing features of the variety are considered its strong branches, which do not require support at all during the ripening of the crop, as well as the dense arrangement of berries.

The berries of Neslukhovsky are large, convex-oval in shape, with a pleasant taste and fragrant aroma

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety - table

Frost resistance.Strong spikes.
Early ripening of berries.Medium powdery mildew resistance.
High annual yield.Often affected by sawflies, aphids and moths.
Resistance to septoria.
Early maturity.
Good transportability.
Berries do not fall off after ripening.
The universal purpose of the fruit.

Landing features

The Neslukhovsky gooseberry variety, like many of its other brethren, does not have special requirements for the composition of the soil, planting a seedling will not cause difficulties and will be within the power of even a novice gardener.

Dates and place of landing

The preferred time for planting the Neslukhovsky gooseberry is the end of September - the beginning of October. At this time, the seedling manages to take root well in the soil and comfortably survive the winter.

The gooseberry Neslukhovsky is absolutely undemanding to the composition of the soil, it develops successfully and gives good yields on almost any type of soil. The only condition that prevents a successful planting is too close groundwater flow. Excessive acidity of the soil is best neutralized with wood ash or lime.

A place for landing should be chosen sunny, without strong drafts and sharp gusts of wind. With a lack of sunlight, the yield will decrease significantly, and the quality of the berries will deteriorate. But it should be borne in mind that a very scorching sun for a long time can also negatively affect the condition of the shrub, despite its resistance to drought.

The best option for planting would be a site along the fence, near the walls of a house or other outbuildings.

Site preparation

The basic preparation of the site for planting gooseberries does not take much time. It is carried out 2 weeks before planting and consists in deep plowing, in which you need to thoroughly loosen the soil, breaking all lumps. In addition, the required amount of fertilizers is embedded in the soil in the form of a mixture of 8-10 buckets of humus with 100 g of superphosphate and 450 g of wood ash per 1 m2 - to lower the pH level.

Dry soil should be moistened and cleaned of weeds and remnants of roots and fruits of previous crops.

Selection of seedlings

For planting, use pure-grade, healthy one-year or two-year seedlings with a well-developed root system and an aerial part, consisting of 2-4 strong shoots

When choosing a one- or two-year-old seedling, first of all, you should pay attention to how well its root system is developed, as well as conduct a thorough examination for putrefactive and damaged areas. The roots must be sufficiently moist.

If there is a lack of moisture, they are wrapped in a wet cloth during transportation, and before planting, they are placed in water for a day.

The aboveground part of the seedling must also be healthy. Young shoots of the Neslukhovsky gooseberry variety have a strong and flexible structure, a brown-green shade of the bark without pubescence and dark thick thorns located perpendicularly or with a bevel downward in relation to the shoot.

Step-by-step planting process

When planting, the roots should be well spread to the sides and in depth.

Observing a certain sequence of actions during planting, even a novice gardener will provide the seedling with the fastest and most comfortable survival rate on the territory of his personal plot. To plant a gooseberry variety Neslukhovsky, you must:

  1. Prepare planting pits 50x50 cm in size and 60 cm deep, taking into account the distance between plantings at 1.5–2 m from each other.
  2. At the bottom of each pit, put a mixture of fertile soil with 2-3 buckets of humus, 2 glasses of superphosphate and 1 glass of calcium chloride. With excessive acidity of the soil, 1 kg of dolomite flour is added, and heavy clay soil is diluted with a bucket of clean river sand.
  3. The seedling is placed on a fertile soil layer, formed in the form of a mound, so that the deepening of the roots is no more than 13-15 cm, and covered with earth. The soil layers should be lightly tamped down by hand.
  4. Water the finished planting with 1-2 buckets of water, and the next day mulch with humus or peat with a layer of 5-6 cm. Planting and further care for gooseberries - video

Plant care

For the full development of the Neslukhovsky gooseberry variety, it needs appropriate care. Regular watering, proper pruning and top dressing, as well as disease prevention will give the plant strength, boost immunity and ensure healthy growth throughout life.


Correct annual pruning increases the bush's resistance to various diseases and improves yields.

The first pruning is carried out immediately after planting - all shoots are shortened by a third.

Sanitary pruning is carried out annually in spring, during which dry branches damaged by frost or disease, as well as shoots that are not growing and lying on the ground, are to be removed. Old branches, which have reached 10 years old, are also cut off.

With each pruning, 3-4 strongest skeletal branches are left in order to form a bush. Thus, by the age of ten, an adult bush will have several branches from each year of life.

Pruning is an important stage of care, since an excess of shoots leads to a lack of nutrition for the plant, as a result, the gooseberry weakens, and its tissues are easily affected by diseases.

Pruning is carried out with sharp garden shears or a knife, leaving no stumps. Places of cuts must be lubricated with garden varnish to prevent the penetration of pathogenic microbes or fungi.

Gooseberry pruning - video


After planting, the seedling is regularly watered for 3-4 weeks to keep the soil constantly moist. Watering is calculated based on weather conditions and degree of humidity.

Sprinkling is considered the best watering method for mature shrubs. It is usually held in the morning and evening hours, when the sun is not so active. For each bush, 2-3 buckets of water are enough.

It is important to avoid puddles and stagnant water, as this can lead to root rot and delay in plant development. An adult shrub is watered 2-3 times a week.

At the time of fruiting, watering must be given special attention, since at this time the buds are laid for the next year.

Top dressing

The growth, development of the plant and its yield depend on the regularity of fertilization. If during the planting process, fertilizing was introduced into the pit, the next 2 years the gooseberry does not need additional fertilizers. From the third year of life, the shrub should be fed with mineral and nitrogen fertilizers.

Fertilization schedule - table

FertilizerProportions (per bush)Terms of introductionApplication procedure
Mulching with compost or a mixture of peat and sawdustLayer about 5cmSpring (March-April)After loosening the trunk circle to a depth of 10–12 cm.
Ammonium nitrate / urea20-30 g / 15-20 gBefore bud breakEmbedding in the soil in the near-trunk circle.
Rotten manure8-10 kgAutumn (September-October)When plowing with embedding in the soil.
Potassium sulfate20-30 g
Superphosphate15-25 g
Nitroammofoska50-70 gWhen buds are formedInto the soil.
Wood ash150-250 gWith the beginning of the formation of ovariesIn the soil before loosening and mulch application.
Liquid feed (bird droppings or mullein)1 l / 10 l of waterAfter harvestEmbedding in wet soil.

All varieties of gooseberries, including Neslukhovsky, have a special susceptibility to chlorine, so fertilizers containing this element should be excluded.

Shelter plants for the winter

The gooseberry variety Neslukhovsky has a high resistance to frost, but in order to avoid possible freezing, it is recommended to provide the plant with a comfortable wintering. To do this, a few days before the shelter, the gooseberries are watered with 3-4 buckets of water, the soil is loosened and mulched in the near-trunk circle. This procedure protects the root system.

The ground part of the shrub is tied into one bundle with twine, tilted to the ground and secured with pre-installed hooks. Then the bush is covered with burlap, and the top is covered with earth with a layer of 5-7 cm.

Diseases and pests

Like any fruit and berry crop, the Neslukhovsky gooseberry variety needs preventive measures in order to protect the plant from diseases and periodic attacks of harmful insects.

Prevention and control of gooseberry diseases - table

Disease The nature of the defeatWays to fightProcessing periodPreventive measures
Powdery mildewIt is formed in the form of a gray coating, which quickly grows and becomes dense. Damages shoots, leaves and fruits.
  1. Spraying the bush with a solution of soda ash (30-50 g per 1 bucket of water) with the addition of 40 g of laundry soap.
  2. Spraying the bush with Fitosporin solution (2-3 teaspoons per 10 liters of water).
After flowering - twice with an interval of 2 weeks.
  • Regular application of mulch;
  • weed control,
  • application of fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus;
  • spraying the bush with a solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) until the buds open.
SeptoriasisDamages gooseberry leaves and fruits. It manifests itself in the form of brown, actively growing spots.Treatment of the bush with a solution of Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 l of water) or Nitrafen (300 g per 10 l of water).
  • Before bud break;
  • 2 weeks after harvest.
  • Regular digging of the soil in spring and autumn;
  • weed control;
  • collection and burning of diseased leaves and fruits in the near-stem circle.
AnthracnoseIt appears as brown spots on shoots, leaves and stalks. Reduces the growth and development of the shrub, leads to a deterioration in the yield.Spraying the bush with colloidal sulfur (100 g per 1 bucket of water) or Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 l of water).When signs of illness are found.
  • Spring digging;
  • weed control;
  • spraying the bush with Nitrafen before bud break.

Gooseberry diseases in the photo

Prevention and control of harmful insects - table

Pest The nature of the defeatWays to fightProcessing periodPreventive measures
Gooseberry shoot aphidIt settles on the tops of the shoots, sucks out nutrients from the leaves and young branches.Spraying the shrub with Fufanon or Iskra according to the instructions for use.Before bud break.Treatment of the plant with a solution of garlic (300 g / 10 l of water) or a 5-day tincture of onion peel (200 g / 10 l of water).
Gooseberry sawflyIt completely eats up the foliage, which leads to a decrease in yield and a deterioration in the quality of fruits.Treatment of the bush with Actellik according to the instructions.During bud break.Spraying the bushes during the growing season every 2 weeks with infusion of tomato tops with the addition of 40 g of laundry soap. Boil 4 kg of tops in 10 liters of water, cool the resulting solution, strain and dilute 3 liters of the composition in 10 liters of water.To destroy sawflies hibernating in the soil, it is necessary to carry out thorough autumn plowing, collect and destroy the larvae of the pest, as well as damaged leaves and fruits ...
Treatment of the plant with Karbofos according to the instructions.During the period of separation of the buds.
Spraying gooseberries with Votafox, Rovikurt according to the instructions.After flowering.
Gooseberry mothDamages leaves by feeding on them. The female pest lays eggs on the inside of the leaf plate. Leads to premature foliage and reduced yield.
  1. Treatment of the bush with Actellik or Karbofos according to the instructions.
  2. Collection and burning of damaged leaves, shaking off and destruction of moth eggs.
  • Before bud break;
  • After flowering - twice with an interval of 10 days.
Weed control and thorough plowing in spring and autumn.

Insect pests in the photo

A month before harvesting, all chemical treatments are stopped, however, homemade infusions and decoctions can be used at any time, since they do not penetrate the fruit and do not pose a threat to human health.

Harvesting and storage

Fruiting of the Neslukhovsky gooseberry variety begins 2 years after planting, and the ripening of the berries occurs at the end of June - beginning of July. The yield per shrub is 5–9 kg.

The berries ripen almost simultaneously, after ripening they firmly adhere to the bush and do not fall off.

The fruits remain on the bush for a long time without losing their taste.

Due to the dense skin, the gooseberry is distinguished by good keeping quality, and during transportation it does not lose its taste and consumer qualities.

Berries of the Neslukhovsky gooseberry variety are consumed fresh at the stage of full ripeness. The fruits are stored frozen, and also used to make jams, compotes, jams and other types of preparations.

Delicious and aromatic winter preparations are obtained from Neslukhovsky berries.

Gardeners reviews

Gooseberry Neslukhovsky is an early variety of Ukrainian selection with large berries of pleasant dessert taste. Differs in frost resistance, early maturity and abundant yield, as well as the ability to maintain taste for a long time. Berries do not fall off the branches even after they are fully ripe. Neslukhovsky is one of the most popular varieties for cultivation in the Moscow region.

Gooseberry Mukurines

One of the most delicious and high-yielding green gooseberry varieties.Berries of medium size or large (from 5 g), golden-green, with light veins, shine through in the sun. The pulp is juicy, refreshing, harmonious sweet-sour or sweet taste. The fruits ripen in July. Plants are compact, strongly branched, very resistant to fungal diseases, powdery mildew and black spot, winter without shelter. Ripening period is medium late.

The price is for 1 gooseberry sapling.
Gooseberry seedlings are mailed by SPRING.

Cooking features

Cooking gooseberry jam is not an easy task, but even an inexperienced chef can handle it if he knows a few points.

  • There is a lot of pectin in gooseberries, so it is inappropriate to use gelling components to make jam from it.
  • For jam, ripe, but not damaged fruits are chosen. Their preparation is laborious - you need to cut off the "tails" from all the fruits. The process will go faster if you do it not with a knife, but with nail scissors.
  • Gooseberries contain many small seeds. To get rid of them, pre-boiled or mashed gooseberries are ground through a sieve. This work is even more laborious than cutting off the "tails", but not in vain. Gooseberry jam, which has a smooth consistency, turns out to be much more pleasant to the taste than cooked with seeds and skin.
  • The readiness of gooseberry jam can be determined by dropping it on a saucer and rubbing it drop by drop with a spoon. If the edges of the drop converge quickly, the dish needs to be boiled again.
  • Do not use aluminum containers to make gooseberry jam. This material, in contact with acids, which are abundant in fresh berries, forms harmful substances. Most often, for cooking jam, an enamel basin is used, which has a wide evaporation area, or a stainless steel pan, to which the jam hardly burns during cooking.
  • When preparing gooseberry jam for the winter, the jars under it must not only be washed well, but also sterilized. They must be closed hermetically with metal lids, which are also boiled before use.

Storage conditions for their gooseberry jam may vary by recipe, but most often they are good at room temperature.

Gooseberry seedlings by mail.


Agricultural technology for all types of gooseberries is almost the same.

Choosing a place. Gooseberry is a plant of the middle lane. Therefore, it is very unpretentious, grows on all types of soils, normally tolerates slightly acidic ones. Heavy argillaceous ones need sanding, acidic ones need deoxidation.

The plant is not afraid of cold winds and does not need winter shelter for tree trunks. The only condition is that he loves the sun. Therefore, it must be planted in an open, well-lit area. In the shade, it will bear poor fruit and will probably get sick with powdery mildew from lack of lighting.

With good care (regular fertilization, anti-aging pruning), gooseberries can grow in one place for up to 70 years. At the same time, he will regularly produce good yields of large tasty berries.

If the groundwater level at the landing site is located closer than 1.5 m from the surface of the earth, it is necessary to dig drainage ditches near the plantings with an outlet to a common drainage manifold.

Preparing for landing. Gooseberries are best planted in the fall, from early September to mid-October, so that they can take root well and prepare for winter. It can be planted in early spring, but here it must be borne in mind that the buds of this culture bloom already at the end of April. Therefore, in the northern regions, spring planting is undesirable.

With already blossoming leaves, seedlings with a closed root system can be planted. They will take root even at the beginning of flowering.

In the gooseberry, the root system is located at a depth of 40 cm, so planting holes with a diameter of 40 cm are dug to the same depth. The bottom layer of soil on clays is laid aside or taken out of the site. In the upper fertile add 1/3 of the sand and 1/3 of the rotted manure or compost and fill the planting pits with this soil. To each add 2 matchboxes of superphosphate and two more - potassium sulfate. When planting, the plant is buried 7-9 cm below the soil level in a pot with ZKS (as well as currants). This promotes the rapid and powerful growth of new branches from the awakened buds that are underground at the bottom of the branches.

The bushes are planted at a distance of 1.5 (undersized) - 2.5 (tall) meters from each other.

Fertilizers. Under fruiting gooseberry bushes, it is recommended to apply urea (20-30 g per 1 square meter) every spring. With good growth, organic and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers can be applied once every two years in the fall at the rate of 1 square meter: 1/2 bucket of rotted manure or compost, 40 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium sulfate. Once every three years, 2 liter cans of wood ash are added.

Watering. Gooseberry is a moisture-loving culture. With a lack of water, the length of annual growths decreases, and the berries become small and lose their attractive taste and aroma. Therefore, do not neglect watering, especially during the period of shoot growth and fruit formation. Watering is necessary 1-2 times a week and abundantly (at least three watering cans under one bush). Watering with small volumes of water (less than a watering can) will do more harm, since they will not be able to wet the entire root system.

Pruning. Starting from the 8th year, the bushes are regularly thinned out. An adult gooseberry bush, depending on the species and variety, should have from 20 to 30 branches. When forming, leave 3-4 branches of each age from 1 to 8 years. First of all, all old, withered or underdeveloped branches are cut out. Pruning is carried out every year either in early spring, or in the fall after the end of fruiting. Slices are immediately covered with garden varnish so as not to infect.

The branches are cut at the base. In no case should you just shorten them. This will lead to loss of yield and thickening of the bush.

To prevent the branches of the gooseberry from falling on the ground under the weight of the berries, a quadrangular frame of laths nailed at a height of 35-40 cm is installed around the bush.

Diseases and pests. The most dangerous disease is American powdery mildew. It infects plants with a lack of nutrition, thickening of bushes and shading. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to carry out two sprays with a 3% Bordeaux liquid. The first is in mid-April (along the green cone), the second is in late August - early September. Such preventive treatment will also help against two other common gooseberry diseases - anthracnose and septoria.

Of the pests, the gooseberry sawfly, spider mite, gooseberry firefly and gooseberry shoot aphid "attack" the gooseberry most often.

To prevent the invasion of pests in the spring after the leaves bloom, the bushes are treated with a solution of the environmentally friendly preparation Fitoverm. Re-processing is done in August after harvest. In the case of severe injury, the chemical "Fufanon" is used, created on the basis of the active substance karbofos (in a much lower concentration allowed for use in household plots).

Powerful rooting agent. Ideal for transplanting both adult plants and plant seedlings, as well as seedlings.

Basic properties:

  • restores the root and promotes its development
  • enhances immunity and frost resistance
  • improves the survival rate of plant seedlings after transportation and transplantation.


  • fermented soy flour,
  • alfalfa flour,
  • fish flour,
  • bone meal
  • amino acids,
  • vitamins,
  • seaweed,
  • N-P-K: 1-5-1

Usage scheme: is introduced when planting seedlings at the bottom of the hole, mixing with the ground. Then a small amount is applied after planting on the soil around the plant, and slightly mixed with the soil by hand. When mulching, the effect is enhanced.

Application rate per 1 sq. M. from 100 gr .:

  • when planting seedlings 25gr. (1 scoop) for one plant,
  • when planting tree seedlings from 50 to 100 grams, depending on the size of the seedlings,
  • when planting a large tree, fertilizer is applied from 200g.
  • overdose is impossible.

Gooseberry is one of the most common fruit shrubs in the middle lane and northern regions.

Gooseberry wine and pies filled with these berries were the favorite dishes of Peter I. Following his example, all the nobles and boyars ordered their servants to grow this, perhaps the most unpretentious berry bush, so that the tsar's favorite treat would always be on the table.

Ordinary landowners did not lag behind them. And in the village front gardens, the peasants were happy to plant this unpretentious, tasty and very fruitful berry.

The gooseberry had only one drawback - its branches were too prickly. However, today this kind, perhaps, is no longer found.

Through the efforts of domestic and foreign breeders, thornless large-fruited gooseberry varieties with huge and very sweet berries were created.

In amateur gardens, just such are grown. However, modern varieties can also be found there with rare, soft thorns. But they do not cause much trouble for gardeners when caring for the crop and harvesting.

We have already talked about the history of gooseberry cultivation, the beneficial properties of its berries, planting and caring for it in our published articles:

Today we will tell you about the modern gooseberry, we will give a description of its best varieties from our collection, we will tell you about some important biological features of this plant that must be taken into account when growing it.


By maturity... All varieties of gooseberries, depending on the beginning of fruiting, can be divided into 3 groups: early (ripen in mid-June, for example, Pushkin) mid-season (ripens in early July, for example, Mucurines) late (ripens in early August, for example, Spinefree).

By the color of the fruit. Gooseberries can have berries: green (eg, Pushkin), red (eg, Kamenyar), golden yellow ( eg, Altai license plate), pink (eg, Mucurines).

By the shape of the fruit, gooseberry berries can be round (eg, Mucurines) and oval (eg, Spinefree).

By the circumference of the branches... The branches of modern varieties of large-fruited gooseberries can be smooth (eg, Pushkin) or slightly spiny, with thin soft spines (for example, Kamenyar).


Gooseberry is a perennial deciduous shrub from the Gooseberry family. Plant height, depending on the variety, can vary from 60 cm to 1.8 m.

According to experts, normal growth and full fruiting of the plant lasts no more than 25 years. Then the bushes need to be changed to young ones.

In order for the gooseberry to produce high yields of sweet berries, give it a sunny place, well illuminated by the sun's rays throughout the day.

Never plant young plants in lowlands flooded by rain or melt water. And groundwater should be located no closer than 1.5 m from the earth's surface. Otherwise, the roots of the plants will begin to rot and your bushes will quickly die.

Soils are of great importance for gooseberries. They should be neutral or slightly acidic (pH 6.5 - 7.0), light, fertile, rich in organic matter and well permeable.

Gooseberries will not grow on heavy, acidic clays. Such lands must be neutralized in advance (one month before planting) with dolomite flour or crushed chalk (at the rate of 2 kg per 5 sq. M. Area).

It is possible to plant gooseberries with equal success in spring and autumn, especially if the seedlings are with ZKS (these are exactly what we have prepared for you).

Planting dates: in spring - from April 25 to May 20, in autumn - from August 25 to October 5. Choose the time depending on your climate. Remember that in the fall, the seedlings should have a month after planting before the onset of frost for reliable rooting.

When planting, bury the seedling 2 - 3 cm into the ground so that new branches form faster at the bush.

Gooseberries are a cross-pollinated crop, so at least two to three bushes should be planted nearby.

It is very important to form the bush correctly. The most productive branches of the gooseberry are 3-5 years old. Therefore, in each bush, leave 2 one- and two-year-olds, 4 three-five-year-olds and 3 six-year-olds.

Cut seven-year-old branches (and older) at the root, disinfecting the hemp with a raspberry solution of potassium permanganate and covering it with garden varnish on top so that no infection gets into the plant tissue.

In the first year, water the gooseberries at least once a week (1 watering can under one bush). Increase watering in hot weather.

Mulch the trunks with straw or freshly cut grass.

Apply fertilizers as detailed in the above articles.

In the first two years for the winter, cover the trunk circles with dry leaves with a layer of 40 cm. In the future, you will not need this, since gooseberries are a very frost-resistant culture.

Gooseberry: a description of the best varieties from our collection

We offer you a description of the best 5 varieties of large-fruited gooseberries, which are multiple winners of International exhibitions and fairs.

A very tasty and fruitful variety (up to 16 kg per bush). Bushes up to 1.5 m high. They have a high shoot-forming ability. Branches are erect, slightly prickly, rapidly growing.

The variety is mid-season. Fruiting begins in July. Refers to green-fruited rosehip varieties. However, when fully ripe, the fruits acquire a golden color.

The berries are large (weighing up to 7 g), round, unusually sweet, thin skin with slight pubescence. The berries do not fall off the bush, but they come off easily. They are very good fresh, as well as for making compotes and wine.

The variety has high frost resistance (up to - 38 degrees), disease resistant and practically not damaged by pests.

There are several varieties of this variety, grown in different soil and climatic zones. Gooseberry Mucurinesthat we offer you is the sweetest, largest, most fruitful and frost-hardy.

Medium ripening variety (mid-July). Bred as a result of crossing varieties Mlievsky red and Plum... Bushes are tall (up to 1.8 m) with thick, erect, weakly thorny shoots. On the upper part of the branches (about 1/3 of the length), there are no thorns at all.

Productivity - up to 17 kg per bush.

The berries are large (weighing up to 6.5 g), dark red or bright crimson, round, very sweet, tender. The skin is dense, without pubescence. A multipurpose variety - good both fresh and processed.

The berries are very high in vitamins and nutrients. Recommended for dietary meals.

The berries may not crumble from the bush for a long time, while remaining firm and fresh (do not fade).

The variety is frost-resistant, resistant to gooseberry diseases and pests. Never affected by powdery mildew.

Domestic gooseberry variety Pushkin obtained by crossing varieties Bottle green and Pavlovsky green.

Today it is one of the best early (ripens in June) large-fruited, high-yielding (up to 12 kg per bush) varieties of green-fruited gooseberry.

Berries weighing up to 5 g are honey-sweet, tender, thin skin without pubescence. The bush is up to 1.5 m high, the branches are erect, which greatly facilitates plant care and harvesting. A great advantage of the variety is that there are absolutely no thorns on the branches.

The yield period is extended (up to 1.5 months). Ripe berries from the bush do not crumble.

The variety is frost-resistant (up to -40 degrees), is not affected by diseases and very rarely by pests.

The most unpretentious of all varieties. Requires minimal maintenance.

The variety is recommended for dietary and baby food.

Domestic very productive (up to 15 kg per bush) and unpretentious variety. It is a powerful medium-spreading bush up to 1.5 m high. Thick vertical branches are practically devoid of thorns.

Golden yellow berries are very large (weighing up to 9 g), sweet with a delicate gooseberry aroma and tender, juicy pulp. The skin is dense, not pubescent. Children love this gooseberry variety.

Medium early variety, ripens in early July. Berries are prone to rapid shedding, so the ripe crop must be quickly harvested.

Possesses high frost resistance (up to -40 degrees), practically does not get sick and is not affected by pests.

The variety is stress-resistant, not afraid of sudden temperature fluctuations, prolonged drought and torrential rains.

When planting, the survival rate is one hundred percent.

Spinefree - a variety of Canadian selection. It is high-yielding (up to 18 kg per bush), late (ripens in August), frost-resistant (withstands winter temperatures down to -38 degrees).

It is a bush with a height of 1.2 - 1.4 m with a medium spreading spherical crown. Arcuate branches, practically without thorns.

Ripe berries - maroon, large (up to 7 g), oval, have an amazingly sweet taste and delicate gooseberry aroma. Hang on the branches for a long time without wrinkling or cracking.

Bears fruit annually and abundantly.

Not picky about soils. Grows well on neutral and slightly acidic soils. Practically does not get sick and is not affected by pests.

The variety takes root well in a new place and grows quickly.

Read more about these varieties on our website or in the SPRING 2021 catalog

And you can order these varieties for spring planting today!

Amerigo F1

This is a hybrid of a new generation, which is developing very actively and at the same time growing rather big. Cabbage heads are snow-white, very massive and heavy. She is not afraid of viral infections, and pests are practically not "interested" in her. The "head of cabbage" ripens rather late, but is not afraid of even the first frosts and can stand for several days under the first snow. You can eat cabbage in different variations: fresh and canned. True, growing it, you will have to constantly monitor the quality of the soil and regularly apply mineral fertilizers.

Why gooseberry thorns

Indeed, the thorns are a feature of the gooseberry bushes. They protect the branches from direct sunlight, condensation accumulates on them, so that the plant does not overheat even on a hot day. In addition, the thorns prevent the hoofed animals from reaching the sweet berries, thereby providing the plant with an increased survival rate among competitors.

But the summer cottage is a territory inviolable for elk and deer. Breeders have the opportunity to outsmart nature and create almost thornless gooseberry species.

Such crops appeared and over time received the active support of gardeners. And the classification of the plant by the presence or absence of thorns on the bush included thornless, medium thorn and strong thorn varieties.

Homemade gooseberry champagne

Classic champagne is made from grapes, and in the homeland of this effervescent drink, in the province of Champagne, it is made from certain varieties according to its own recipe. But delicious sparkling wine can be made at home from other garden berries, for example, from gooseberries, especially since not everyone can grow their own grapes, especially if the climate of the region is not conducive to growing this thermophilic culture. The recipe for a wonderful homemade gooseberry champagne can be found in the book "The Great Illustrated Encyclopedia of Canning for Reasonable Lazy People" by Galina Kizima.

From green and yellow gooseberries, sparkling wine of a beautiful golden straw color will turn out, from dark varieties - a pink drink

Gooseberry champagne is the most common fizzy. A similar drink can be prepared from almost any berries, fruits, and even from ripe tomatoes.

Advice: for gooseberry champagne, take well-ripe berries - green or overripe ones will not work.

For champagne you will need:

Prepare bottles and corks for homemade champagne in advance (rinse and dry thoroughly)


1. Pour berries, sugar and water into a ten-liter bottle. You've probably already noticed that this recipe does not use yeast. And this is not without reason: wine bacteria, with the help of which the fermentation process takes place, always live on raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, grapes (they are also preserved on raisins). If the berries are washed, the bacteria will be destroyed, and yeast will have to be put into the wine, but the taste of the drink in this case deteriorates.

2. Then you need to build a water seal: put on a rubber glove on the neck or cover it with plastic wrap secured with an elastic band. Excess carbon dioxide will escape, and oxygen will not be able to enter the bottle, and therefore the wine will not sour. Fermentation of the drink should last about 45 days at a temperature not lower than + 24˚C (at temperatures below + 20˚C, fermentation does not occur).

3. After the drink has fermented, use a rubber tube to drain the wine into the champagne bottles, seal them well and place horizontally in the refrigerator.

4. Now you have to wait a bit: the gooseberry champagne will be ready in 4 months.

Homemade gooseberry champagne matures for four months. The drink will arrive just in time for the New Year's table

Watch the video: Gooseberry Time: The Early Summer Grape

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