Whitefly is a dangerous pest of vegetable gardens. A whole swarm of small white midges literally sticks around the plants and not only sucks out nutritious juices, but also is a carrier of diseases. Therefore, it is so important to protect the planting from whitefly, and at the first signs of damage, urgently take action.
This tiny insect no more than 2 mm long is highly fertile. Its mass distribution is facilitated by warm, but damp weather. The midge often starts in greenhouses where the air humidity is high and there is no ventilation. Adults lay eggs on the underside of the leaf, from which larvae soon emerge.
An adult female whitefly lives for about 30 days, during this period she is able to lay up to 140 eggs
The life cycle from egg to imago is only 18–20 days. In the absence of processing, the larvae weaken the plants by drinking their juices, and the adults eat the green pulp.
Small moth lays its eggs on the underside of leaves
In addition, as a result of the vital activity of insects, sticky secretions enter the plants, which are colonized by sooty fungi. A strong degree of infestation leads to drying and blackening of the leaves, and retardation of plant growth. In this case, it is impossible to completely get rid of the fungus, so it is important to prevent the spread of the harmful butterfly.
There are many effective ways that you can completely get rid of the dangerous midges in the garden. However, unfavorable weather conditions, contaminated planting material can cause the appearance of a pest.
The easiest way to remove insects is to pick them off the plants by hand or wash them off with soapy water.
Plants can be cleaned of the pest with a jet of water under a strong pressure
Whiteflies and glue traps made of a yellow plate with a special glue are used to catch whiteflies. The insect attracted by the yellow color sticks to the sticky surface and dies. The most effective use of traps in closed ground, although they are often used on open ridges. 2 plates are enough for an area of 10 m2.
Whitefly flies to yellow and immediately sticks to the trap
I use phyto-nets to protect plants from harmful midges. For convenience, I install arcs over the beds, onto which I stretch the protective material. Phyto-nets allow air and light to pass through, which are necessary for plants, but do not allow insects to get through. Growing vegetables in a net house reduces the use of chemicals.
Phyto-nets reliably protect plants from pests
You can get rid of harmful butterflies with the help of fumigators. In greenhouses, electrofumigators (plate or liquid) are used, destroying pests with poisonous vapors within a radius of 20-30 m. Vapors are fatal for larvae and adults, but not dangerous for eggs. Therefore, the procedure should be repeated after 2-3 weeks.
Liquid fumigators emit fumes that poison flying pests
People and pets must not be in the treated room, so as not to get poisoned.
In the open air, it is more advisable to use spirals. The drug creates on an area of 20 m2 a protective cloud, falling into which, midges quickly die.
A spiral made of smoldering materials impregnated with insecticides removes flying insects from an area of 20 square meters
Garden plants suffering from whitefly can be cleaned with entomophages - ladybirds, lacewings, ground beetles. Beneficial insects will gladly settle on daisies, marigolds, marigolds planted near the beds.
Ladybug is a natural enemy of the whitefly, destroying larvae and adults
Biological products containing fungal spores, which penetrate into the insect's body, release toxins, causing death, help me significantly reduce the whitefly population. It is better to use the drugs in a complex, having treated the plants and the soil around them twice: 200 ml of Boverin + 200 ml of Metarizin 10 l or 150 ml of Bitoxibacillin + 100 ml of Lepidocid + 60 ml of Aktofit 10 l.
Unlike chemical pesticides, bitoxybacillin does not contain toxins, and its active substance is protein crystals and microbial culture spores
However, in case of a massive invasion of harmful midges, biological methods should be combined with chemicals in low doses.
Many summer residents use folk remedies instead of chemicals in pest control. But with a large population of whiteflies, such methods are ineffective.
Yarrow (90 g) is placed in a jar and filled with water (1 l), insisted for 2 days. Then filter and spray the leaves on both sides. Two repeated treatments are carried out with a week break.
Yarrow is an excellent natural insecticide that kills harmful insects
Dandelion (roots and leaves - 40 g each) is crushed, filled with water (1 l) and left in a dark place for 4 days. Then they filter and process the planting three times once a week.
Dry inflorescences of pyrethrum (30 g) are infused in 100 g of alcohol for 12 hours. After straining, the infusion is mixed with water (1 l) and processing is carried out three times with an interval of 3 days.
Alcohol tincture is prepared from the dried flowers of pyrethrum to combat the pest
Garlic (150 g) is crushed, filled with water (1 l) and left for 5 days. After straining, add water (20 ml 10 l), liquid soap. Spend 3 sprays, between treatments - a week's waiting period.
To prepare an insecticidal solution, garlic is crushed and infused in water.
Soda ash (1 tablespoon) is stirred in warm water (3 l), iodine (12 drops) is added and 2-3 treatments are carried out at intervals of a week.
Treatment with a solution of soda and iodine is a safe way to destroy parasites
The chemical method allows you to quickly and effectively get rid of the pest. However, along with parasites, insecticides are capable of destroying beneficial insects. In addition, products can be consumed only 30 days after chemical treatment.
The use of chemicals allows you to quickly and effectively get rid of pests
When applying chemicals, the developmental stages of the whitefly should be considered. Preparations Match, Admiral kill eggs and larvae of insects, but are not able to ensure the mortality of adults. The use of Aktara, Aktellik, Fufanon, Fitoverma, Bi 58 leads to the lethal outcome of the imago. Effective at all stages of pest development Confidor, Monsoon, Inta-vir. A week break should be observed between treatments.
When sprayed, Aktara is quickly absorbed by the leaves and, destroying pests feeding on the underside of the leaf, retains its protective effect for up to 28 days
|A drug||Substance consumption||Number of treatments|
|Admiral||1 ml 5 l||2|
|Fufanon||1.5 ml 1 l||1|
|Aktara||1.5 g 10 l||3|
|Inta-vir||2 tab. 10 l||2|
|Actellik||1 ampoule 1 l||3|
|Confidor||0.1 ml 1 l||1|
|Tanrek||0.5 ml 1 l||1|
|Benzyl benzoate||30 ml 1 l||3|
|Verticillin||25 ml 1 l||2|
Chemical preparations have a long period of action (3-5 weeks) and ensure the death of the population by 90%.
Intavir is an effective insecticide of intestinal action, which leads to rapid paralysis of all organs of the insect pest, affecting its nervous system
It is quite possible to get rid of the whitefly in the garden using the entire arsenal of biological, mechanical, folk and chemical agents, be sure to take into account the degree of their effectiveness at different stages of the pest's development.
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Weeds are the longtime enemies of any gardener. And even if there is no vegetable garden on the site, weeds can thoroughly spoil a beautifully trimmed lawn, turning it into a sloppy field overgrown with grass. There are a lot of methods and means of weed control today: from traditional folk to “advanced” high-tech ones. You can choose the tool that will suit you as much as possible.
To make it easier to navigate in the variety of different means and preparations for weeds, in the article we will give a detailed overview of the most effective of them. In addition, we will find out the prices for drugs, and find out by what means it is better to destroy weeds on the lawn and in the garden.
Whitefly is an unwanted guest in greenhouses, causing a lot of trouble. This insect is able to gradually destroy a significant part of the crop. To protect your garden crops, you need to pre-treat the greenhouse.
Whitefly parasitizes plants, feeds on their juices, which leads to a slowdown in growth and even death of crops. In order to harvest a good harvest in the greenhouse, it is worth taking care of the destruction of the whitefly in the fall or early spring before planting the seedlings in the ground. In autumn, you can work both the greenhouse itself and the soil in it. In the spring, it is permissible to process the greenhouse at least 2 weeks before planting seedlings, but it is impossible to spill the soil with chemicals or use sulfur checkers.
Whitefly is a dangerous pest
At the initial stage of preparing the greenhouse for thorough processing, it is imperative to remove from it all the remaining tops, fruits, leaves, roots. All this must be burned, and not put in a compost heap, since plant residues from the greenhouse can become a source of infection.
After cleaning, all structural elements must be washed with hot or warm soapy water. It is convenient to clean frames and glasses with a brush on a sufficiently long handle. Particular attention should be paid to grooves and joints. The remains of the detergent must be washed off. You can do this with a hose.
After carrying out the preparatory stage, the frames and glass in the greenhouse are treated with a disinfectant. For these purposes, the following are suitable:
It is not necessary to rinse off the remains of disinfectants from frames and glasses if the treatment is carried out in the fall. Additional rinsing is necessary if the greenhouse is treated with colloidal sulfur in the spring. Potassium permanganate, Bitoxibacillin are completely safe. Only wooden supports are treated with copper sulfate with lime. This formulation does not require rinsing.
I use potassium permanganate to treat the walls of the greenhouse. I make a deep pink solution and spray it with already washed structural elements. I do not advise using detergents and pastes that contain abrasive substances for cleaning polycarbonate greenhouses. Polycarbonate can be easily damaged.
After processing the elements of the greenhouse, you should start disinfecting the soil. Whitefly larvae hibernate in greenhouse soil. Are used:
The required amount of the drug is diluted in a bucket of water and spilled or abundantly sprayed on the upper part of the soil. The approximate consumption of the working solution is 5 liters per 1 sq. m.
The use of chemicals is not always justified and is expensive. For this reason, before resorting to such drastic measures to combat the whitefly, you can try to treat the greenhouse with folk remedies.
A good effect is given by spilling the soil with boiling water. Under the influence of high temperature, whitefly larvae die. The top layer of the soil is spilled with boiling water, after which the ground is covered with a film for 2-3 days.
Whitefly larvae are afraid of frost, so for regions with a cold climate, freezing of the soil is permissible. If possible, it is better to open the greenhouse for the winter so that the soil is well frozen.
Fumigation with sulfur bombs is an effective way to combat whitefly. Substances formed during the combustion of sulfur dioxide destroy even the larvae... Tobacco smoke bombs are equally effective. But in order to achieve the desired effect, it is necessary that the fumigation procedure is carried out correctly:
In the fall, I always set fire to a sulfur stick in the greenhouse. If everything is done according to the rules, the whitefly is destroyed. Before processing from the greenhouse, I must take out all the inventory, metal and wood products. There should be no personal belongings in the greenhouse and, as it seems obvious, no food. Substances that are formed during the combustion of sulfur cause corrosion of metals and gradually destroy wood. For this reason, I use this method of fighting whitefly no more than once a year. There is also a little secret for glass greenhouses. Before processing, you can moisten the walls with a spray bottle. Substances formed during combustion react with water to form hydrochloric acid. This gives an additional disinfecting effect. After processing, it is not necessary to rinse the walls of greenhouses with water. All potentially hazardous substances disintegrate during the winter.
Sulfuric checker is one of the most effective methods of fighting whitefly
Garlic repels the whitefly. To cultivate the soil in the greenhouse, as well as the construction of polycarbonate or glass itself, it is necessary to grind 250 g of peeled garlic cloves and pour 1 liter of hot water over them. The mixture is infused under a closed lid for 2 days, and then filtered, poured into a spray bottle and sprayed on the inner walls, the ceiling in the greenhouse, and the soil. It is not necessary to wash off the remaining solution from the walls of the greenhouse.
From a whitefly, one friend does this - a very strong solution of potassium permanganate interferes with a hot solution of boric acid and all this hot through a metal watering can (it warms in it, if it has cooled down) strongly spills the entire top layer of earth in the greenhouse. After the first year, when she had a whitefly, this scourge is no longer there.
In September, I treated the greenhouse with a sulfur checker. Today the whitefly flies as if nothing had happened. So her eggs do not die.
Flower girl Nina
Treating the greenhouse in late autumn will help protect future crops from the whitefly pest. You can use both folk remedies for insect control and industrial preparations, or combine them.
If you did not manage to destroy or at least scare off the whitefly from your site using folk methods, you need to use more effective methods in the fight against this pest.
Fitoverm. The instructions for use indicate that this insectoacaricide of contact-intestinal action is quite effective in the fight against aphids, whiteflies and various types of ticks. The poison protects plants outdoors, depending on the humidity and ambient temperature, for 5 - 15 days. In the greenhouse, the period of protective action is longer: 12 -20 days.
Tanrek. A fairly effective insecticide that will help you defeat the whitefly and heal the plants. Tanrek is a systemic drug that penetrates the plant, blocks the nervous system of insects, which leads to their death several hours after spraying the site.
Fufanon. Insecticide of contact-intestinal fumigant action. When processing, it covers the ground part of the plants with a film. The drug does not affect the quality and taste of the fruit, does not accumulate in the soil and is absolutely harmless to humans, but poses a threat to bees and fish. Fufanon is one of the fumigators, that is, when it is sprayed over a plant, for a while, a small cloud of poisonous dust is formed. Fufanon is effective against midges, whiteflies, and ticks.
Apploud. The insecticide is used to kill pests in the garden, as well as on cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and other vegetables. Differs in prolonged action, prevents the appearance of whitefly for at least 20 days. The product does not pose a threat to warm-blooded animals, fish, bees and other beneficial insects.
Aktara. The drug is used in the fight against leaf-eating and sucking insects. Effectively destroys whitefly larvae, aphids, caterpillars, bedbugs, without harming the plant. When sprayed with soil, the insecticide protects plants for 40-60 days, depending on weather conditions.
Admiral. Most often, this insecticide is used in the fight against whitefly in greenhouses and for treating apple trees. The drug is characterized by a delayed action, that is, pests die not only at the stage of processing, but also in the subsequent period. Among the disadvantages of the insecticide, we highlight its high toxicity - when spraying the field, do not forget to wear personal protective equipment. No more than one treatment per season is allowed.
Spark Gold. One of the most modern drugs to combat harmful flying insects: whitefly, butterflies, aphids, Colorado potato beetle, midge. The drug is highly effective and has a prolonged duration of action, it destroys insects that are resistant to other chemicals. After applying the insecticide Spark Golden Whitefly, it dies within 24 to 48 hours.
Aphids are very fertile, and a few days are enough for them to settle in all the beds. At the same time, the insect does not deprive a single plant of attention: cucumbers, tomatoes, pumpkins and even weeds - everything goes into action. The danger lies in the fact that aphids suck the juice from the leaves and at the same time poison the plants with a poison that causes their illness and death. If you leave the pest on the plantings, you can forget about a good harvest. In addition, aphids attract ants with their honeydew, which will take care of them and feed them on the best plants.
The good news is that aphids are afraid of numerous folk remedies and, with regular processing, will leave the beds alone. Infusions and solutions of soap, zest, ash, hot pepper, onions will scare away insects and save your vegetables.
Since ancient times, people have resorted to soil fertilization, plowing of the earth, and ennobling sites. The more nutrients reach the plant, the more favorable the soil is for growth, the better.
Moles and shrews not only harm the land, but eat harmful insects, their larvae dug holes become additional "ventilation shafts" that fill the soil with oxygen.
However, beautiful, painstakingly created flower beds, lawns risk being spoiled by the same animals.
It is not difficult to notice: hills of earth where holes are dug, damaged root systems of plants, the consequence is dead plants. Pests also destroy useful inhabitants of the underground: earthworms, whose vital activity is favorable for the soil.
There are a lot of tips on how to get a mole out of the garden with folk remedies, but let's deal with everything in order: the mole throws the dug out earth out, it does not feed on plants.
Important! Shrews do not feed on plants either. There are about 20 types of moles, how to get a dacha mole? The latter often camouflage their burrows. Moles can make about 30 meters of tunnels per day, and shrews can easily use the moles' tunnels.
The presence of inhabitants on the site can be left without special attention if the appearance is not essential, or the number of pests is not high. But since you are here, you need to know how to get moles out of the summer cottage efficiently.
2-3 moles can live on a hectare. They live no more than 3-4 years. Moles are kept alone all the time, except for the breeding season in early spring. In length, adults reach 15-20 cm. Shrews are a bit like mice, and reach 7-10 cm.
These animals are active all year round, in winter they only burrow lower, creating passages for searching for food, in which worms often come across, lured by secretions, and a higher temperature. Shrews can eat a daily amount of food that is several times the weight of their own body: digesting very quickly, not storing fat under the skin, but converting calories into heat.
Where do moles live? Moles are widespread in Eurasia, North America, their favorite soil is moist, which is not difficult to dig. Moles move underground by crawling, have evenly growing wool, velvet to the touch. Some species of moles in search of food allow themselves to go to the surface of the earth, however, this is rare.
There are many ways to get moles out of the garden, we have selected the most effective ones.
Vibration, noise. Install several windmills around the perimeter of the site, if possible, hang on them several empty cans, or something rattling. Moles are almost blind, but they have an incredibly developed sense of smell and hearing. Such devices can scare away moles.
Smell. As already mentioned, an incredibly keen sense of smell. You can easily take advantage of this advantage: for 3-4 liters of water, take a glass of castor oil, a few tablespoons of household chemicals. Spray this solution over the area. In case of rainy weather, re-process.
Advice!Water. Take a garden hose with a strong enough water pressure, drive it deeper into the hole, then turn it on. Let the water fill the tunnel, turn it off completely when it flows out. Several such operations repeatedly at intervals of several days can drive away pests.
Planting plants. There are plants that repel moles. Plant Lilies around your plot. Garlic can help. This is one of the most ineffective ways to remove a mole from the site with folk remedies.
Shovel. Trample the mink and the mole's course when you see that it has begun to clear its way again - rather, dig the animal on the surface it will no longer be difficult to catch it. However, do not hesitate, do everything as quickly as possible.
Poisonous bait / poison. As with any unwanted inhabitant, there are many poisons. This can be the most effective solution to how to get moles out of a summer cottage. In our case, poisonous baits in the form of worms occupy a special place.
Be careful, they can be eaten by other animals, even dogs. Read the instructions carefully, and think twice if there is an urgent need to resort to potent substances that can destroy pests, but also damage the environment.
Electronic devices. Special devices that generate vibrations with a very high frequency - ultrasonic ones - can be effective. The human ear cannot hear anything above 20-22 kHz, but our smaller brothers can. The same principle works with mosquitoes, mice, others ...
Fumigation. The principle is similar to water, except that the exhaust gas from the car / lawn mower is passed through the hose. It is important to take into account that interference in the exhaust gas system of an internal combustion engine can be fraught with consequences.
Traps. Perhaps the most efficient, straightforward, and reliable way. It can also be a great alternative to getting rid of moles and shrews for more humane people. Read other materials on the site on how to get moles and shrews off the site. Traps are divided into deadly, and those in which the animal is not physically harmed.
Attention! There are disposable traps, and reusable ones. It is always important to read the instructions. Due to the similarity of these animals with mice, mousetraps are widely used, on which a worm or a larva is placed as bait.
Scissor traps. Most often they will offer you in gardening stores have a number of advantages: reliable design, easy installation, remote control of triggering, simple sensitivity adjustment.
However, for shallow or deep tunnels, size can be an issue. Also, at low temperatures, the mechanism may freeze. Difficulties arise with masking the trap.
Plunger traps. Uses a spring that drives a kind of metal claw. The mole touches the trigger with its paw, trying to clear a previously laid cave, the trap slams shut.
Has a fairly high power, does not require adjustment before installation. Of the minuses: it may not work due to rocky soil, a competent installation is important.
Tunnel traps. One of the most effective methods for removing moles in the country. They are small metal tunnels. Such traps are the most effective: the effectiveness practically does not depend on the type of soil, is easy to camouflage, can kill several animals at once, and is suitable for wide and narrow passages.
But the traps are difficult to detect after installation (it is necessary to first mark the installation site with a visible object), it also requires a certain skill in installation in order to protect yourself from injury.
Hollow pipes. They can be used for catching moles, they belong to the humane type of traps in which the animal does not die. You can also purchase them in the store, or make your own, however, this type of trap differs in its rather low efficiency. We will also share with you some of the key features of shrew moles.
Shrews are much harder to notice, because of their secretive lifestyle: the animal itself is only 7 cm long, does not leave large mountains of earth. The population can grow very strongly: 3-4 litters are possible per season. These animals should not be confused, but it is important to understand that they have approximately the same effect on the soil.
Today, the revolution in the fight against moles is scarers.
There are several reviews about interesting methods of dealing with whitefly in a greenhouse:
As you can see, all means are good in the fight against whitefly. And with each season, summer residents are inventing new ways.
Potatoes are usually grown in very large quantities. It is not always possible to change the landing site in a limited land plot every year. So how to sow the garden from weeds and how to prevent their mass spread? Experienced gardeners sow rye or winter vetch in early September.
Also an excellent precursor for increasing potato yields are oats, peas and white mustard. Do not use representatives of the nightshade family as a green fertilizer. Mustard sown in front of potatoes can significantly increase yields and help get rid of the wireworm.