Is it difficult to raise the Champion of the North

Apricot Champion of the North attracts gardeners with unpretentious care, strong branches, thin crown. Experts recommend growing it on difficult soils, since the difficulties of the variety were not terrible.

Description of apricot variety Champion of the North

The apricot variety Champion of the North was obtained in Voronezh by sowing from the seeds of the well-known and well-proven Triumph Severny apricot. Like the parent, the variety has excellent qualities and is widespread in the Central Black Earth Region, as well as beyond.

Champion of the North apricot fruits begin to ripen in mid-July

The Champion of the North has a tall tree (5–6 m), thick shoots, and a rather sparse crown. Early maturity is average: the first berries can be expected 4–5 years after planting. The variety is declared self-fertile, but, as practice has shown, in order to obtain a good harvest nearby, the presence of the parent, the Triumph of the North apricot, is desirable.

The plant has a high winter hardiness, the wood can easily withstand frosts down to -30 ° C. Flower buds are moderately resistant to recurrent frost. Ripening of berries occurs from mid-July to almost mid-August.

With an average yield, the berries grow large, up to 65 g. If there are many fruits, then their weight can be halved. The color of apricots is orange, with a delicate blush on the sunny side, the taste is pleasant, with sourness. The stone is easily separated and contains a sweet, almond-flavored kernel that can also be eaten.

The pulp of apricots is rather dry, which, however, determines the good keeping quality and transportability of ripe fruits.

7-year-old apricot tree Champion of the North brings up to 25 kg of delicious berries

Planting a tree

The best time to plant an apricot is before the very beginning of sap flow, when nature wakes up from winter sleep. Planting a seedling is preceded by competent preparation in the fall:

  1. First you need to choose a suitable place, which should be protected from the wind, well-lit by the sun (the apricot will not bear fruit in the shade), not damp and flooded, saline.
  2. The seedling is purchased in the fall - at this time the best choice and quality of planting material. Preference is given to 1–2-year-old trees, since older ones tolerate transplanting worse. The root system must be well developed. To preserve the tree until spring, the roots are covered with a mullein and red clay mash, then placed in wet sawdust or sand. Store in a basement at a temperature not exceeding 5 ° C.

    For storage, the seedling can be dug in the garden. The plant is placed in a hole, the roots are covered with earth.

    A seedling purchased in the fall can be dug in the garden for storage

  3. The size of a pit for a future tree on fertile lands can be minimal - 60 x 60 x 60 cm.But on poor sandy soils, large pits are prepared, at least 1 m deep and 1.5 m in diameter. The top fertile layer is folded separately.
  4. At the bottom of the pit, a nutrient mixture is laid, consisting of equal parts of fertile soil, humus or compost, bottom peat, sand (does not apply to sandy soils). Add 300 g of double superphosphate, 2-3 liters of wood ash and mix well. Cover until spring with a film or other material.

In the spring, they begin the final stages:

  1. A seedling is taken out of the storage area.
  2. At the bottom of the pit, a small mound is formed from the nutrient mixture, on which the roots of the plant are placed, carefully spreading them.
  3. Fill the pit with the remaining earth. If it is not enough, then you need to prepare a certain amount of soil in advance.
  4. They form a near-trunk circle and water the tree well.
  5. The seedling is cut to a height of 60–80 cm, the branches are shortened by a third.

Apricot Care Champion of the North

Growing this apricot will not be difficult.


Watering the apricot should be rare, but abundant. The soil should be soaked to a depth of at least 30–40 cm, and when watering before winter, by 60–70 cm. The tree especially needs moisture in the spring, during the flowering period and the formation of ovaries. At this time, the first watering must be carried out.

The second watering is needed during the ripening period, but not less than 20 days before the start of the harvest.

If the summer is dry, then after picking the berries, you can water the tree again to restore strength.

Top dressing

If a sufficient amount of fertilizer was applied when planting the tree, then in the early years the apricot is not fed. With the onset of fruiting, food consumption increases. Organic fertilizers (humus, compost, low peat) are applied at intervals of 3-5 years. They are buried in the soil when digging in spring or autumn.

During the period of growth and ripening of fruits, you can feed it with mullein infusion (2 kg per bucket of water insist for 5-7 days), which is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and watered at the root of the tree.

The infusion can be prepared from poultry droppings (1 kg per bucket of water) or from freshly cut grass (5 kg per bucket of water).

Mineral fertilizers are applied in spring and autumn. They are used both individually (with a lack of any specific element) and as part of complex fertilizers.

Table: types of mineral fertilizers and the timing of their application

How to correctly form an apricot crown Champion of the North

Since the variety is tall, one of the goals of shaping is to restrain the growth of the tree. For this case, the well-known sparse-tiered crown shape is better suited:

  1. In the early spring of the year following planting, all branches are cut into a ring, except for the three best ones. The distance between the remaining ones is at least 25 cm, they should grow in different directions. These are the future skeletal branches of the first tier. They and the central conductor must be cut by 20-30 cm.
  2. In years 2–3, the second tier of skeletal branches is formed in the same way.
  3. In the 3-4th year, the formation of the tree is completed by the formation of the third tier, and the central conductor above the upper branch is also cut off.

    For the apricot tree Champion North, a sparse-tiered crown shape is suitable

In addition to formative pruning, the following types are distinguished:

  • Regulatory trim. Its purpose is to keep the crown unheated and to improve fruiting. To do this, use two techniques:
    • removal of shoots directed into the crown, as well as tops;
    • chasing annual shoots (shortening young twigs by 10-15 cm, which induces the shoots to form new flower buds).
  • Sanitary pruning. It is carried out in late autumn (as part of a complex of work to prepare for winter), as well as in early spring. It is necessary to remove dry, injured and diseased branches, which are then destroyed.
  • Anti-aging pruning. It is necessary when harvests begin to fall, and the gardener decides to extend the fruitful life of the tree. The easiest way is to cut off all the shoots growing inside the crown on the skeletal branches. After that, new shoots will begin to grow on them.

With any pruning, the following rules must be observed:

  • Use a sharp instrument after disinfecting it.
  • Make cuts at right angles to the branch, do not leave stumps.
  • Cut branches of large thickness in several steps.
  • Protect the cuts with garden pitch.

Diseases, pests and other problems

The likelihood of diseases and pests on the tree is significantly reduced with regular preventive maintenance.

Table: preventive work to prevent disease and pest attacks

Diseases to which apricot is susceptible to Champion of the North

Common diseases and pests of apricot:

  • Moniliosis. This is a fungal disease, which is favorable for the development of high humidity and cool weather. Spores can be brought in by wind or insects. In the summertime, the fungus affects the fruit in the form of gray rot. If signs of infection are found, they are treated with fungicides.

    Signs of apricot monilial burn - curling and sagging leaves

  • Clasterosporium disease (perforated spot).

    Clasterosporium disease is treated with fungicides

Table: the best fungicides, their characteristics

Pests threatening apricot

There are many drugs for dealing with intruders - insects. These drugs are united by a common name - insecticides. They cannot be used during the flowering period of plants, as they can destroy the bees collecting nectar.

Table: the best insecticides, their characteristics

Common pests:

  • Weevil. It hibernates in bark and soil, and in early spring it wakes up and climbs a tree. At this time, it can either be etched (treated with insecticides), or collected mechanically and destroyed. The second opportunity to fight the pest will appear at the end of May, when small larvae of 4–6 mm in size emerge from the eggs. They feed on young roots in the topsoil. If you treat the soil with Diazinon, then within 20 days most of them will die.

    The weevil owes its name to its long proboscis

  • Aphid. You can find it by seeing twisted leaves. They hide many black, green or other colored small insects. With a significant spread of the pest, it is not necessary to unfold the leaves - aphids can already be observed en masse on young shoots. It is a sucking pest and is well destroyed by systemic insecticides such as Biotlin.

Aphids settle on leaves in large colonies

Why apricot Champion of the North does not bear fruit

It so happens that the apricot grows, but does not produce crops. There may be several reasons for this:

  • Incorrect landing site:
    • close occurrence of groundwater;
    • low-lying place where water accumulates;
    • shading;
    • acidity of the soil (this problem can be dealt with by adding lime or dolomite flour).
  • Weakness of the tree due to poor maintenance:
    • lack of watering;
    • lack of nutrition;
    • disease.
  • Unfavorable climatic conditions (prolonged recurrent frosts, as a result of which the kidneys freeze slightly).

Variety reviews

And this year my beloved apricot Champion of the North gave its first fruits! True, there are still quite a few - two dozen. But the main thing is that it began to bear fruit! And a good start: gorgeous bright yellow apricots !!! Sweet and juicy, it just melts in your mouth. They were waiting for them for 3 years. Last year, my apricot bloomed, but due to the freezing in early May, the bloom flew around. And this year everything turned out so great. And it bloomed well, and many fruit trees were tied up, and the sores (pah-pah!) Did not stick. In general, a new era has begun - apricot

The previous summer and early spring were unfavorable for apricots in the Moscow region. But even under such conditions, an adult tree will fully provide a family with dessert and will give an opportunity for harvesting. This year the Champion of the North showed himself best of all.

Apricot Champion of the North is a worthy son of the Triumph of the North. Excellent qualities of berries, unpretentious care, frost resistance - all this has long been appreciated by the inhabitants of the middle lane. The disadvantage is partial self-fertility, therefore, without a tandem with a parent or other pollinating variety, it is better not to plant it.

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Hello! My name is Pyotr Vladimirovich. I am 63 years old. By education - a mechanical engineer.

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Planting an apricot

Pick-up location

The thermophilicity of apricot determines the placement of this tree in a warm, sunny area with mandatory protection from cold winds. It is undesirable to grow them in the lowlands due to the stagnation of cold air. At the same time, the southwestern slopes, so beloved by many cultures, are also not suitable for apricot, since in such areas the plant begins an active growing season to the detriment of fruit formation.

A tree growing in a warm and sunny area

It is necessary that the groundwater is low enough, since even a short-term flooding of the root system is destructive for a plant. The soil under the tree must have good air permeability.

The most favorable for apricot soils of average fertility. It can be sandy loam, or loam, both light and heavy. The acidity level of such soils should be neutral. Soil liming is done annually. For liming, wood ash is used at the rate of 500 g per tree.

Planting seedlings

Given the average size of mature trees, it is advisable to plant according to the scheme: 4 - 6 meters between trees, and the rows were located at a distance of 4-4.5 m from each other.

Planting is carried out in the spring, the best planting time is the end of the flowering period in mature trees, that is, the second half of April.

The planting pit has a diameter and depth of about 60 cm... Preliminary preparation consists in digging a site in place of a pit (with an area of ​​2 to 3 square meters) at least 40 cm deep with the removal of plant residues of grass and other foreign elements.

If the soil is too poor, rotted manure is introduced into it (the rate is about 3 kg per sq. M). About 1 bucket of humus and from 500 g to 1 kg of superphosphate are introduced into the planting pit itself. In addition, on poor soils, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers, mainly potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. The application rates for such fertilizers are at least 100 g per sq. m.

The seedling is placed in a dug hole, sprinkled with excavated soil and watered. If the seedling has been grafted, the grafting point should be located 10-12 cm above the soil level... Watering the seedling is done with 10-20 liters of water.

Seed planting

It is used for better adaptability of the plant to the local climate. In addition, all the properties of the mother plant are inherited during seed propagation. This process is longer, since it actually consists of two stages: growing a seedling with its further transplant.

Pitted apricot

There are three ways to seed apricots:

  • immediately after harvest
  • in the fall of the same year
  • next spring

In all cases, the landing is carried out according to the same scheme. The differences will be only in the preliminary preparation of the seeds.... For planting in the second way, the seeds must be placed in wet sand in the basement and stored until September, maintaining a high level of humidity in the sand.

Planting next spring involves stratification of seeds by placing them in conditions of low temperature and high humidity. In the period from July of this year to February of the next, seeds can be stored at room temperature without fear of germination.

For stratification, seeds should be placed in a moist substrate (sawdust or sand), which is poured into a plastic bag or container that has holes or perforations for proper ventilation. In this case, the temperature should be within + 4-10 ° С. The duration of stratification is 40 to 100 days. Once the seeds are cracked and germinated, they can be planted.

Planting seeds is carried out as follows:

  1. Preliminary soil preparation is carried out as for planting seedlings, described earlier. But at the same time, not a landing pit is formed, but several long depressions no more than 10 cm deep, located parallel to each other at a distance of 0.5 m.
  2. The furrows are slightly moistened with water and seeds are planted in them at a distance of up to 10 cm.
  3. Furrows are buried flush with the soil and mulched with humus or peat 5 cm thick.
  4. Additional watering is carried out using a watering can with a divider.

If the planting was carried out in the spring, then by August, seedlings up to 1 m high will grow on the beds, which are transplanted to a permanent place in September. Last year's plantings are replanted in the spring, at the same time that purchased seedlings are planted - starting from the second half of April.


Grafting an apricot is necessary to obtain seedlings with the required characteristics, if at the same time there is no desire to grow a plant from a seed.

Budding or grafting with an eye on an apricot cuttings

The duration of such a process sometimes exceeds several years. The survival rate of young seedlings obtained from seed is relatively low. That is why grafting is the most popular among apricot planting methods.

Most often, the graft is a stalk obtained from a one-year-old shoot of an adult plant measuring about 15 cm with 4-10 buds. Sometimes a young plant is used as a scion, grown from the seed of the variety of interest, cut to the very root.

Inoculation by the method of "cleavage"

Any kind of apricot that takes root well in the conditions of a given area can be used as a stock. Often for this purpose, wild apricot species or young trees up to 3 years old are used, grown from layers of mature trees or independently from seeds.

Apricot is a crop that can be grafted not only on plants of its own kind. Best of all, the accretion of the scion occurs with a stock of Besseys cherry.

The most common as a stock are:

  • cherry plum
  • plum
  • sweet cherry
  • sand cherry

Each apricot variety prefers a specific rootstock.

Grafting several apricot cuttings "for the bark" of cherries

Depending on the method of vaccination, it is done at different times of the year. Inoculation or incision grafting can be done throughout the warm season. Grafting with a cuttings (copulation, grafting for the bark or in the split) is traditionally done in the spring. Wet weather with rains is most suitable for any form of vaccination, since under such conditions the growth and healing processes of the cut sites are most active. According to statistics, the maximum survival rate of cuttings (up to 80%) falls on grafting with a cuttings in the period from April to June.

First watering the apricot is produced at the end of May to preserve the ovaries and support the formation of this season's shoots. Second watering produced at the end of June - its task is to support the process of bone formation. Third and fourth watering are made in early and late August. Each watering requires 20 to 40 liters of fluid.

Top dressing is applied 4 times per season:

  1. In early spring the plant needs nitrogen. It can be either organic matter (humus, compost) in the amount of 1-2 buckets for each tree or urea (30-50 g per sq. M)
  2. Feed after the end of the flowering process consists of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (consumption rates from 20-40 g per 1 sq. m).
  3. After the end of the fruiting process nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers should be applied again. At this stage, it is best to use a nitroammophos and make top dressing foliar - using a sprayer, apply a fertilizer solution to the leaves of the plant. The fertilizer concentration should be 20 ml per 10 l of water.
  4. Autumn feeding consists of mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus, potassium and calcium.

It is advisable to apply all fertilizing at the same time as watering the plant.

Pruning a plant and shaping its crown serves not only to improve the aesthetic appearance of the plant, but also to its normal life. Excessively thickened trees bear fruit much worse than trees with a thinned crown.

In addition, since apricots are relatively heavy, excessive amounts of apricots can cause branches to break off. It is believed that a plant can support the weight of apricots if their number correlates with the number of leaves on a branch, as 1 in 20. Therefore, pruning should include not only shaping the appearance of the crown, but also removing excess fruits or even individual branches with a large number of them.

Disease and pest control

Unfortunately, honey apricot is susceptible to many diseases and pests. Diseases and "drugs":

  • Moniliosis is a fungus that causes the tree to dry out. It is treated with Teldor and Switch drugs.
  • Hole spotting is treated with a solution of copper sulfate and 4% Bordeaux liquid.
  • Valsa mushroom is the cause of orange growths. It is treated with a Switch or a fungicidal spray.
  • Verticillary wilting leads to premature yellowing of foliage. It is treated with a 2% solution of Bordeaux liquid, Topsin-M, Previkur, Fundazol or Vitaros.
Apricot fruits infected with monillosis

Also apricot can attack such pests:

  • aphid
  • moth
  • hawthorn butterfly caterpillar
  • leaf roll.

Honey apricot fully lives up to its name. Its fruits have a unique taste that will delight all household members. In addition, these stone fruits can be used to prepare delicious preserves, jams and compotes for the winter.

Watch the video: Champion - Adam London and Steph Andrews. North Way Live Worship

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