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In total, 28 beds are involved in my crop rotation. All of them are of the same size 2.5x1 m, that is, each has an area of 2.5 m², including four beds for the daikon. Considering that this culture loves loose, well-fertilized, sufficiently moist soil with a neutral reaction, I prepare the beds in the spring.
One more condition must be taken into account when allocating a site for a daikon: its predecessors should not be from the cruciferous family. So, with a pitchfork I deeply loosen the soil, without turning the layer, by 25-35 cm. I pour two buckets of compost mixed with rotted manure on each bed. Then I bring in 1.5-2 liters of sifted ash, which I sprinkle evenly with a tablespoon over the entire surface of the ridge. Then I also add about five tablespoons of the mineral fertilizer "Kemira Universal 2" and water the ridge. And before sowing, I cover it with a black film for a period of no more than 6 days. If the sowing is delayed, I remove the film again, lightly loosen the surface with a rake and water it. I cover it again with a film (this is against the evaporation of moisture, weeds and pests looking for a place for laying).
About 10-15 days before picking the seedlings into the beds, I prepare the soil mixture. It consists of 1/3 of the volume of matured compost mixed with rotted manure. The second third of the volume is well-aged and aerated peat. Another 1/3 of the volume is forest soil from hills or hillocks from under the pine trees. I mix everything. I remove all random debris and pour this mixture into a regular vegetable drawer. The thickness of the soil layer is 7 cm. The seeding pattern is 4x4 cm or 5x5 cm. The sowing depth is 4 cm.
To speed up the work and ensure even seeding, I made special marking strips and a planting peg. I moisten the soil mixture before marking. I apply the seeds with small tweezers. To avoid double plantings or omissions, I spread the seeds in piles in a candy box. The number of piles is equal to the number of rows, and the number of seeds in a pile is equal to the number of holes in a row. If during sowing I have to be distracted, I stick a peg into the next unoccupied hole. I always follow these rules - they insure against mistakes. The germination rate of the selected seeds is 100%, the germination period is 4-6 days. After the end of sowing, I cover the box with lutrasil. I bring him into the house at night.
I do it when the seedlings reach the 2-4 leaf phase (counting the cotyledons). Before planting them, I water the soil abundantly in the box. Wet soil prevents the root ball from crumbling during excavation. I remove the black film from the garden. If necessary, I also loosen and water the soil. I mark with a marker the surface of the bed according to the scheme of an equilateral triangle. For a long time I was convinced in practice that only such a scheme with a successfully selected side of the triangle experimentally will ensure the most efficient use of the entire area of the ridge. In addition, the location of plants with mathematical precision at equal distances in all directions from each other reduces the intensity of intraspecific struggle.
Planting seedlings from selected seeds long before the time of traditional sowing with seeds gives great advantages. Strong, healthy and uniform plants grow quickly, the crowns of leaf rosettes close and shade the shoots of weeds. Weeds die, and it is a joy for the gardener - no need to weed!
How to determine the required size of the side of a triangle? It all depends on the variety and local growing conditions. To begin with, I will give my recommendations: for the Sasha variety - the side of the triangle is 20 and 22.5 cm; for the Ttsukushi variety - 17.5 and 20 cm; for the Minovase and Dubinushka varieties - the sides are 25 and 33 cm. Closer to ripening, measure the rosettes of the leaves of your varieties, write down the numbers in your diary for using this data next year. Then you can already adjust the sides of the triangle taking into account your conditions.
With a special triangular marker I mark the surface of the bed, observing the required size of its sides. At the same time, I make a hole with a planting peg in each marker mark with a diameter that ensures a pick of the seedling without disturbing the clod of earth and a depth of at least 7 cm. I straighten the spine. I lower it deeply, to the very leaves, but without dropping the foliage and the growing top below the soil level. If the earth lies on the leaves, the seedling will die. When planting daikon seedlings with a long root crop, it is advisable to deepen the hole as much as possible and expand it with a stake when marking. Fill the resulting cone with soil mixture and make a hole in it for picking the seedling. After the seedling is correctly positioned in the hole, I scoop up loose soil to fill the hole, but do not crush or ram the soil around the hole.
After 1-2 days, the plant will recover from the transplant stress. It is imperative to feed him, because the seed supply of nutrients has been used up, and the roots are still weak. For many years, only for the first feeding of seedlings of any crops, I have been using Kemira Lux soluble fertilizer. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of powder in 5 liters of water. I give each seedling three teaspoons of the solution. I put it around the stem and at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from it - only into loose soil and only on the roots. The seedlings and young shoots of daikon are actively attacked by a cruciferous flea. The most reliable protection is lutrasil on low arcs.
By the time the tops are closed, the lutrasil can be removed. The second dressing is done with "Garden tincture" of my own production from herbs 7-10 days after the first. I add 0.5 liters of top dressing to the slightly loosened soil around the plant. Before use, I dilute the tincture: 1-1.5 liters in a bucket of water heated by the sun. Subsequent watering and feeding alternate among themselves. The timing is determined by soil moisture and weather. When watering and fertilizing, I always slightly bend the tops with one hand so that the liquid gets only into the soil.
I did not say about my sowing dates. Sasha sowed variety at the end of May. And yet, five percent of the plants were prone to flowering. I think that other varieties, when sown during this period, would completely go into the stem. Apparently, sowing should be carried out either in early spring, as soon as the weather permits, or in the second half of summer. So, I sowed the seeds of all other varieties of daikon after July 15, when the daylight hours became shorter.
If there is no urgent need, I am in no hurry with cleaning. We began to eat the first root vegetables of the Sasha daikon variety 25 days after germination. The diameter of the root crop reached 4 cm, weight 100-120 g. With late harvesting, the weight of the root crop increased significantly, while the tenderness and juiciness of the pulp did not change. The storage time is increased. Of course, cleaning should be done in dry weather, before frost. Before harvesting, the soil must be loosened with a pitchfork. I release the root crop from the tops, leaving a tail of 2-3 cm. I do not keep it in the sun. The safest storage is to salt. Daikon can also be stored for 2-4 months in a refrigerator at a temperature of 2-3 ° C in perforated polyethylene bags.
Now I am a staunch supporter of the daikon. He received a permanent residence permit in my garden. I hope that every year I will have more and more supporters and followers. Remember the words of the breeder V. I. Startsev - "Daikon is a friend of man." Yes, he is your friend, the friend of your health. I invite other daikon gardeners to share their experiences on the pages of the magazine. If someone is interested in my way of growing daikon and he wants to know all the details, write and call the editorial office, come to my courses.
G. Sherman, experienced vegetable grower
Relative radishes, Japanese radish daikon - a tasty and healthy root vegetable of the cruciferous family, which was bred by the Japanese from the Chinese radish of the forehead. Daikon appeared in Russia at the end of the 19th century, and immediately received the names "sweet radish" and "white radish".
The very name "daikon" is translated from Japanese as "big root". Daikon's root vegetables are really large, larger than radish, and in Japan they reach a weight of 16 kg. Our average root crop during harvesting weighs from 0.5 to 4 kg.
Daikon fruits are more tender and juicy than radishes. They keep well in winter.
Daikon contains trace elements: potassium, magnesium, iron, phosphorus. It contains a lot of beta-carotene, vitamin C, and all B vitamins.
Along with the rest types of radish, radishes and horseradish daikon dissolves and removes kidney stones and cleanses the liver. Moreover, it does not contain mustard oils, which stimulate the heart, and in some cases are contraindicated.
There are many phytoncidesthat kill harmful microorganisms. In addition, the lysocine it contains slows down the growth of bacteria.
Daikon cleanses blood vessels, increases appetite, and due to its low calorie content, it promotes weight loss, removes toxins, strengthens hair, removes radiation from the body.
There are also contraindications. In large quantities, daikon can irritate the mucous membranes of the stomach and intestines. It is also not recommended to use it for patients with ulcers, gastritis, gout.
In addition to root vegetables, you can also use the tops, fresh and blanched.
During the first year of growth, turnips develop a root crop and a leaf rosette, while in the second year, flowers and seeds appear in the bushes. In salad varieties, leaf plates are smooth, while in fodder varieties they are sometimes pubescent. Root crops have a spherical, rounded-elongated, cylindrical and rounded shape, they can be painted in white, pale yellow and purple, or any of these shades can be combined in one rhizome. The racemose inflorescences consist of yellow flowers, flowering begins in the second year of growth. The fruit is an elongated pod with dark red or black seeds inside. Such a plant is considered a relative of the following crops: turnip, rutabaga, radish, radish, daikon, mustard, horseradish and all types of cabbage. Today there are a large number of table varieties of turnips.
The root crop is very popular at home. It is included in the daily diet of a large part of the Japanese population. The Japanese consume about 300 grams of vegetables daily, of which a fifth is the daikon.
It is quite possible to grow Japanese radish in Russian conditions. The plant can be planted from May to August. The best time for planting is June - July, since at this time of the year the yield of the root crop will be much higher. Before planting, be sure to apply organic fertilizers to the soil. It is also recommended to add lime to acidic soil.
Water the vegetable regularly, 3-5 times a week. The amount of watering depends on the weather. The first shoots appear a week after planting. You can harvest the crop in 40-70 days, depending on the variety.
Harvesting should not be done in wet weather, as long roots are likely to break. Then the root crop must be cleaned of the ground, packed in bags or wooden boxes and placed in a refrigerator or basement, where the temperature is kept in the range of 0-5 ° C.
With a 13-15 hour daylight hours, the process of forming the roots of a vegetable is much faster. It is also important to consider the air temperature. On warm summer days, the plant goes into the arrow less often than in cool spring weather.
Daikon is often used for artistic vegetable carving. Carving lovers make roses, lotuses and chamomile from its pulp.
Daikon is unpretentious to the quality of the soil, you just need to choose the right variety.
Russian breeders have developed varieties adapted to the long daylight hours characteristic of most regions of our country. Daikon Sasha considered resistant to arrow formation, although in practice this quality is not always manifested. But the early maturity of this variety allows you to grow it, bypassing the period of the longest days.
To avoid the daikon shooting, you need to plant seeds either in early spring or at the end of summer... If you live north of 55 °, then during spring planting, root crops are not formed, the plant will bloom immediately. In central Russia, spring sowing for seedlings needs to be done in the beginning of April... After a month, the plants can be planted in a well-insulated greenhouse under the film tunnels. If you are going to grow a daikon in the open field, on warm days it is advisable to keep boxes with seedlings on a glazed loggia.
When the spring frosts are over, the seedlings can be planted in the beds. Daikon is a thermophilic plant, therefore, at air temperature below +10°C planting must be covered with a film or covering material.
To get a good harvest, give root crops enough space for development... Both in the greenhouse and on the street the distance between the rows should be 60-70 cm, but between plants – 20-25 cm.
The daikon root goes deep into the ground, so the soil is dug to a depth of at least 25 cm... When designing beds, add compost and complex fertilizers, and in acidic soils - lime... To help large root crops grow and develop, under each plant a drill makes a hole 50 cm deepwhich is filled with fertile land. Before planting, the garden needs good humidify.
If you intend to use individual specimens to obtain seeds, please ensure that there were no other cruciferous plants nearby, otherwise they can get dusty, and instead of a daikon, an incomprehensible hybrid will turn out.
Autumn planting has its pros and cons. Such plants do not bloombesides, for their planting you can use the land freed up after harvesting other crops... The disadvantage of this method is that the roots do not have time to reach their maximum size, therefore, yield decreases.
In central Russia, sowing daikon needs to be completed at the beginning of August... The beds are prepared in the same way as for the spring planting. The only difference: in the land depleted by early cultures, you need to add more nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers.
When planting seeds in the garden put 2-3 seeds in each hole... When real leaves appear, excess plants are removed, leaving in each nest one copy... After thinning the planting, you need feed complex fertilizer.