Oleander is a beautiful shrub that blooms during the beautiful season of the year, from late spring through early fall. Its evergreen foliage is beautiful foliage with slender, glazed, lanceolate leaves. The foliage is green or two-colored and its flowers are sometimes fragrant. It is a moderately hardy shrub, which in some areas will require you to come home during the cold periods of the year. Oleander can be planted on its own, in a hedge, at the bottom of a massif ... A beautiful spring pruning strengthens flowering and maintains its habit.
• Nerium Oleander
• Plant: Perennial
• Foliage: Persistent
• Type of plant: Hardy (-15 ° C) / Semi-hardy (-5) and non-hardy (+ 3 °)
• Family: Apocynaceae
• Harbor : Arbusif - shrub
• Exhibition: sunny
• Plantation: In spring from March
• Flowering : May to October
• Rooting: Roots
• Cultivation area: 8a to 10 (see hardiness card) - to everywhere in a pot with wintering under shelter.
• Origin: Mediterranean
• Toxicity: The whole plant
• In reality, the Oleanders, depending on their variety and their location, can reach 4 meters in height and 3 in width, real small trees.
• The color of its flowers ranges from white to red, passing through shades of pink and orange.
• The tree is poisonous. Nothing to do with the aromatic laurel.
• Oleander particularly appreciates hot and mild climates such as coastal areas.
• In less favorable climates, protecting it from winds with a wall for example can improve the chances of successful cultivation in the ground.
• Beautiful shrub with “explosive flowering”.
• Possibility of use.
• Long flowering.
• Any well-drained soil.
• The laurel likes the sun and mild to warm temperatures. But be careful with watering in hot weather, the Oleander should not run out of water.
• In spring : from the end of March.
A word from the amateur gardener:
• If the soil in your garden is really heavy, or in a very rainy region, or in a cold region, choose the option to cultivate in a container, this is your best chance of success!
In the ground:
• Loosen the soil to a good height 40 cm deep, to adapt to the size of the container.
• The soil must be well loosened, and well drained.
• Mix with the soil of the garden, potting soil (2/3) and heather soil (1/3).
• Space the oleander at least 1 meter from other shrubs.
• Place the Oleander containers.
• Replace the rest of the soil from the improved garden.
• Firmly press down without risking damaging the "roots" of the plant.
• Water generously
• Plant the Oleander in a substrate such as potting soil for Mediterranean plants.
• A 1/3 garden soil mixture; 1/3 potting soil and 1/3 sand
• Young shrubs (2 years): point of attention in summer when oleanders should not lack water.
• Mature shrubs: allow the soil to dry out between waterings.
Size of oleander:
• At the very beginning of spring, a good pruning reinforces the ramification and the solidity of the branches. It also improves flowering.
• No illnesses.
• The foliage can be damaged in hot weather if watering is irregular.
• Flowering usually begins in the month of may until October.
• Flowering is generally generous and sometimes very fragrant.
• Antoine: round shape, 1.5m, not very rustic, to be preferred in pots, red flowers.
• Marie Gambetta: Oleander with yellow flower, 1.5 m in height, its flowers are simple, 6 to 7 cm, its petals very apart non-turbinate. Not very rustic too.
• Roman Villa: it is the hardiest of oleanders (-15 ° C)
• Italia: one of the most fragrant.
If you are lucky enough to be in a region with a favorable, mild, even hot climate: combine oleanders
in a Mediterranean atmosphere, opt for an olive tree, orange and lemon trees ...
You can also opt for a lilac, Agapanthus, Alstroemeria, or a budleia.
• ATu garden: En beds, in hedges, in front of a stone wall ...
• Pot : In a large pot. to beautify the terrace or the garden.
Soil and Watering
Foot size (WxH)
drained soil - mild and warm climate
1 to 4 m high
1 to 3 m wide
1 to 3 m
Collet not buried
from May to October
The rose was discovered on the fresco of "L’oiseau bleu" dating from the 18th century BC. And it was not until the 12th century that rose cultivation began in France.
In fact, it is planted first for its fragrance, then its edible properties, then for its medicinal properties, and finally for its ornamental qualities.
It is Joséphine de Beauharnais who introduces 250 varieties of roses in her garden in Malmaison.
Currently, the rose is without context the Favorite flower of the French who acclaim it for its exceptional beauty and fragrance.
It is a poisonous plant in all parts due to the presence of cardiotonic glycosides in bay laurel.
It consists of oleandrine, a heteroside with a steroidal structure, pharmacologically and chemically similar to ouabain, as well as digoxin, two-cardiotonic components frequently used in heart failure.
The action of the oleandrin compound is twofold. It allows the interaction with the Na + and K + pump system of the heart muscle cells and the activation of vagal tone to optimize the nerve regulation of the heartbeat.
This is because the spread of cancer cells requires excellent functioning of the Na + K + pumping enzyme system in order to reproduce properly in the human body. As a result, this system forms the basis of new anti-cancer drugs such as the oleandrine in oleander, which has already been in promising trials in humans.
In addition, the consumption of a single leaf of this plant can be fatal for humans, whether adults or children, because of the serious problems often caused by its ingestion.
A notable fact is the roasting of pieces of lamb by Napoleon's soldiers on oleander spits in 1808 during a bivouac, which caused the death of 8 out of 12 soldiers, the other 4 being seriously intoxicated.
Animals, such as herbivores, can also poison themselves with oleander leaves. Dry leaves are the main cause of this since they consume very little fresh leaf.
It has been determined that an amount of a few tens of grams of fresh leaves (30 to 60 g) would be fatal for an adult cattle, while 4 to 8 g of leaves would be sufficient to cause the death of an animal such as sheep.
Likewise, the water in which the leaves, roots or branches of oleander have been soaked is toxic to animals.
For a quality oleander, it should be cut in the month of August when its period of growth is over. After placing the stems in water or soil, it usually takes about two months to see the roots appear. Provided put the pot inside when it's cold to avoid winter frost. For your oleander to bloom to the fullest, place it at a sunny, warm and sheltered from the wind.
For more gardening advice, do not hesitate to visit the L'Ami des Jardins website.
Start by preparing the pot: lay a layer of gravel or clay balls on the bottom, then fill with a mixture of garden soil and potting soil halfway. If the soil is heavy, feel free to also incorporate a handful or two of additional sand to lighten it. Water copiously this substrate, and go to the foot of the bay leaf cuttings !
Using a secateurs (with a clean and disinfected blade), remove young twigs about fifteen centimeters in length.
Remove all of its leaves except the 3 to 4 terminals.
Then reduce them by half. This trick, also used for shrubs with large leaves such as hydrangea cuttings, reduces evaporation, and therefore avoids drying out of the cutting.
When all your cuttings are ready, you just have to put them in the ground! If you want to usecutting hormone, now is the time to soak it base of the cutting.
Then don't forget to make a pilot hole with a pencil or screwdriver. Install each cutting bay leaf sauce inside by burying it about 3/4 cm deep, bring the substrate against the stem.
Finally, all that remains is to water, sparingly, and cover the pot with the top of the bottle. This technique is called cutting « stifled ". It is used to cut many other shrubs or climbing plants because it significantly increases the chances of recovery. Under a closed atmosphere, the cuttings are indeed less likely to dry out.
Remember, from time to time, to water the substrate using a small trigger sprayer: it is indeed necessary to maintain constant humidity throughout the rooting.
After a few days / weeks, if any leaves are starting to turn yellow or appear to be sick, do not hesitate to remove them. cuttings incriminated: they will not take root.
Finally, don't forget that the bay leaf is a cautious species, especially when the plants are young. In cool regions, do not hesitate to bring in cuttings under a veranda or in a horticultural greenhouse to bathe them in a gentle atmosphere. Elsewhere, place the pot at the foot of a wall, in the shade all day.
When the signs of recovery appear (appearance of new leaves, roots that come out through the drainage hole), it is time to repot them individually. Then wait until the next spring. Once the last risks of frost have been eliminated, you can plant them permanently in the ground, in their planned location.
During the winter, however, you will have taken care to protect these young people under a wintering veil.
The carnation Indian or Indian rose, it is the gardener's must-have plant. Its price is low. You can make your seeds very easily. Its orange-yellow color brings beauty to your garden.
For the gardener, it is precious, a real guardian of your vegetables. It hunts nematodes, repels whiteflies from cucumbers and aphids from eggplants. Another utility is that it attacks cabbage flea beetles.