Cedars in the cold season can give the site a picturesque look. However, this is possible only if conifers are properly prepared for wintering.
Even a slight thaw in winter can lead to fungal infection of trees. These can be rust diseases, which are dangerous for other plants, as well as shute, which affects immature coniferous seedlings.
As a preventive measure, it is recommended to use a mixture of biostimulants such as Epin and Maxim.
The first of them increases resistance to stress and pathogens of various diseases, including fungal, and the second prevents the development of rot. For processing, you need to mix 1 ml of Epin and 1 ml of Maxim, and then add 10 liters of water. The resulting solution must be sprayed with needles in the first half of September and the last week of October.
This element promotes the development of adventitious roots, strengthens the cell walls, and also thickens the cell sap, which prevents the tree from freezing.
In addition, potassium helps to strengthen the root system, so that the plant will not suffer even if the soil is washed out.
For cedar, it is recommended to use potassium sulfate. 50 mg of potassium humate must be diluted with 10 liters of water, the resulting solution is poured onto the trunk circle.
In early November, before snow falls, it is recommended to use various growth stimulants. Siliplant is a silicon-containing fertilizer that helps to restore yellowed needles, increase resistance to injury and reduce disease incidence.
This drug stimulates the development of the root system, and also relieves various stresses that often occur during wintering.
Treatment involves spraying cedars or watering under the root with a solution consisting of 20-30 ml of Siliplant and 10 liters of water.Plantafol is a complete foliar application that contains nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. This drug is used to accelerate the growth of cedar. To treat trees, 15-25 g of Plantafol must be mixed with 10 liters of water.
Aktara is a systemic insecticide that will protect cedar trees from pests. To prepare a solution, 8 g of the drug must be diluted with 10 liters of warm water.
It is recommended to use another growth stimulator of the root system - Zircon. It has a pronounced protective effect against phytopathogens, has antifungal, antibacterial and antiviral properties. To protect the cedar, it is necessary to dilute 10 ml of the drug with 10 liters of water, and then process the tree twice with an interval of 7 days.
After harvesting, it is necessary to begin preparing the garden for winter. This process will provide trees and shrubs with a comfortable wintering, protect them from pests in the next growing season.
The work is divided into several stages:
Each stage is individual. Gardeners plan work taking into account climatic conditions, the age of trees and bushes, and their condition. In the regions, with severe frosts, they additionally insulate, constructing shelters.
Important! It is imperative to loosen the ground near the trunks to a depth of at least 20-25 cm. During this procedure, the larvae of pests, appearing on the surface, die in severe frost.
In large gardens, discing or cultivation of row spacings is practiced. Old and sick trees with incurable diseases must be uprooted. Disinfect the soil with bleach.
Advice! For whitewashing boles, you can use the ready-made mixture "Gardener" or prepare a solution yourself from 10 liters of water, 3 kg of lime and 0.5 kg of copper sulfate.
Before the onset of cold weather, work is carried out to exterminate rodents. For this, preparations are laid out in the holes along the perimeter. The poison is also spread near tree trunks.
If the fall is quite warm or you live in a region with a mild climate, then you can do a bush transplant. At this time, only paniculate and tree-like hydrangeas are "relocated" to another place. But the landing site is being prepared in spring. Around the perimeter of the trunk circle, a trench is dug about 30 cm deep and wide, filled with compost and watered regularly.
Hydrangea is transplanted in September. To do this, the branches of the bush are tied with a rope so that they do not break and interfere with your work.
The hydrangea is dug along the outer edge of the trench and carefully removed from the soil, trying not to damage the roots (especially young ones). You don't have to worry about old roots. The plant is transferred to a new place and planted in a previously prepared pit filled with a nutrient soil mixture with an acid reaction.
The soil is best prepared from leafy soil, humus, sand and sour high-moor peat (reddish color) in a ratio of 2: 2: 1: 1.
After planting, the hydrangea is watered and compacted. In this case, the root collar of the bush should be at ground level. In order for the plant to better take root in a new place, it is recommended to carry out anti-aging pruning (all branches "to zero").
Do not rush to cover an adult vine, the first frosts are not afraid of it, they will only affect green leaves and shoots, and woody ones will only temper. They begin to shelter grapes on a dry day in the second half of October, when the first frosts with a temperature of –5 have already been noted. –7 ° С, but constant negative temperatures are not yet established.
The air-dry method is better for sheltering grapes. It creates an optimal mode of warmth and dryness for grapes, excludes freezing and damping. Covering the grapes, you need to take care that the whole bush is "under the fur coat", not only the vine, but also the roots.
Ideal for hiding grapes in the Moscow region and to the north: air-dry
How to prune grapes correctly?
In the conditions of northern viticulture, the most popular formations of grapes are fan-shaped without stamps. Several fruit links are arranged in a fan-like manner on a vertical trellis. This method was developed at the end of the 20th century by the winegrower, a member of the Moscow Society of Naturalists Dmitry Kharitonovich Tokarev and is excellently used, especially in small summer cottages.
First year. In the spring, the annual shoot is tied up horizontally. In autumn, 2 shoots are left, the rest are cut out.
Second year... In the spring, last year's shoots are tied horizontally to create sleeves. In autumn, the first shoot from the base is left on one sleeve, and the last on the second. In varieties that bear fruit well with short pruning, 4–5 eyes are left on each shoot, while those that bear fruit well with medium pruning have 6–8 eyes.
Third year. In the spring, last year's shoots are tied horizontally: with a short pruning towards each other, with an average - both shoots in one direction. In autumn, varieties with short pruning leave the first shoots from the base; varieties with medium pruning leave the first shoot on one sleeve, and the last on the other.
A very interesting solution is mulching the garden.
Traditionally, straw is used for this or wood chips... But black agrofiber, or geotextiles - no worse!
They perfectly 'hold' moisture, do not allow weeds to germinate, and at the same time do not oppress plants.
When planting strawberries in mulched beds, do not make too large holes, in this case all the advantages of this planting method will come to naught.
Mulching is perfectly combined with drip irrigation systems. Drip tape should be positioned so that the emitters go directly to the plants.
After planting, it makes sense to shade the plants for several days, for example, covering them with light agrofibre density 30 or density 60.
If you do everything right, you will get the first, small harvest this year (especially if you used modern remontant varieties), and full-fledged - in the second year, and diseases and pests will not bother you too much.
How to achieve this, you will learn from our further publications.
Vladimir Mikhailov, Nelly Lapinus
There is a misconception that conifers do not need insulation for the cold season. Most of them really have high frost resistance. But young plantings without proper care and preparation for the winter period can die, they need to be additionally insulated.
To strengthen immunity, work begins to be carried out starting in August. Feeding is carried out with organic and mineral fertilizers. Before the onset of cold weather, in the last autumn months, trees must be watered abundantly at the root at the rate of 20-30 liters for one adult plant.
A special approach is needed for small dwarf crops and annual seedlings. They are additionally protected by constructing wire frames, which are covered with a special material. Trunk circles are mulched with organic matter: peat, humus, sawdust. The younger the tree, the thinner the layer.
Advice! Do not cover ephedra with plastic wrap. During the winter thaw, fungal infections can develop under it.
Low-growing crops, if possible, are completely covered with snow. Young trees with fragile spreading branches in the first years of life are tied with a rope or synthetic twine to avoid breaking off branches under a large snow cover. Non-woven material and burlap are used, which completely covers the tree.
To protect the plantings from strong winds, tying to a support is practiced. To do this, a stake is dug in near the tree, to which the trunk is attached in several places.
The appearance and further growth of plants depends on how carefully the work on preparing the conifers for winter has been carried out.
There is a special technology for external and internal insulation. It must be strictly adhered to in any situation, otherwise the desired effect will not be achieved. Usually, insulation technology involves the creation of several layers:
Depending on the type of material used, the technology may undergo some changes, but the general principle will remain the same: to create high-quality insulation, it is important to prevent contact of the used insulation with moisture.
Now you know how to prepare a summer cottage for the winter. Follow the above recommendations, and you will be able to keep order in the country, even in the cold season. Remember that properly preparing your home for wintering will make your work much easier during the spring months.