Description and main species

The Ranuncolaceae family is one of the richest and most varied in botany, presenting very different genera and species: one of the plants that belong to it that is quite well known at a cultural and botanical level is, without a doubt, the Anemone, a genus that it includes numerous cultivars, some of which are grown for their cut flower, others simply for the garden as a perennial plant. There are two most significant examples in this sense, namely the Anemone Nemorosa and the Anemone Ranunculoides, which can be found spontaneously in most of the meadows and woods.

The reference periods of the plants

In practice, these are perennials and rhizomatous plants: in this case, the flowers are formed by some petal-shaped sepals in very variable numbers, with a soft and delicate white color or even more lively and bright tones. The pistils are also very numerous. It must be said, first of all, that the anemones that are grown nowadays can be classified according to the time of their flowering, precisely distinguishing those species that tend to bloom in the spring months from others that instead bloom in the summer-autumn period. When growing anemones, it must always be remembered that these plants need a soil that is quite fertile, with a very high percentage of potassium, as well as a loose, deep and fresh base: fertilization by using manure must be carried out several months before planting the plants, trying to avoid, in any case, the excess.

  • Anemone nemorosa

    The nemorosa anemone is a rhizomatous herbaceous plant. It is native to southern Europe and is particularly appreciated for its blooms. The roots have the shape of rather stocky rhizomes and ...

Multiplication and cultivation

The multiplication of these plants takes place mainly by vegetative means, employing the rhizomes form tubers (which are often and improperly also called "legs" or, precisely, "tubers"). However, it is also possible to resort to multiplication by means of the seed, but in this case it takes precise manual operations, very long and rather delicate, as well as two-three years to obtain the flowering plants you want. The cultivation of spring flowering anemones is carried out by planting the rhizome portions in a period ranging from August to late autumn, or the period that includes the January-March quarter can also be good. but in any case everything essentially depends on the climate of the place in question. Some guidelines in this sense may still be useful: planting in the period of August is in fact to be preferred in the Mediterranean regions (a typical example is offered by Liguria) and the same goes for the production of cut flowers.

The seasons for flowering

Among other things, the actual flowering begins in mid-autumn and continues throughout the winter months. If, on the other hand, we are in a more continental climate region (where winter is much more severe), then it can be planted at the end of winter; should the Anemone plants be left in the ground for several years, it is advisable to always protect the organs that are underground during the cold season, using, for example, leaves or other materials. On the other hand, the summer-autumn flowering Anemones are planted towards the end of autumn or at the end of winter, always in relation, however, to the climatic conditions that are present at that particular time. Among the spring flowering species, we cannot fail to mention the Coronaria Anemone, the best known and most cultivated, also for its cut flower. This plant has many varieties, including those of the De Caen group with simple flowers and those of Saint Brigid with semi-double or double flowers: in the first group just mentioned, the scarlet-red-flowered Hollandia, the Fokker (of a bright blue-violet) and the pink-violet Sylphide, while in the second group the dark blue Lord Lieutenant, the Governor (which has scarlet flowers) and, finally, the pink-white Rosette (with double flowers) deserve a mention, in addition to numerous others.

Colors and crosses of the Anemone

The Anemone Nemorosa usually produces much smaller flowers than the previous one, white in color, but there is also no lack of pink or more vibrant colors, depending on the different varieties; the Anemone Ranunculoides forms splendid yellow flowers, small in size and carried in number of two to three on the stem of the flower itself. The Apennine Anemone, which is found in the central-southern regions of our country and bears white, sometimes blue flowers is also very well-known and famous. Among the main species with summer-autumn flowering, Anemone x hybrida is indicated with several synonyms, including that of "japonica" (like camellia) and derives from numerous crosses that have been established (flowering is abundant and flowers are white or pink, with a diameter that can vary from seven to eight centimeters.


Finally, there is one last curiosity to highlight. In fact, the genus Anemone once included some very variegated species which instead, nowadays, belong to different classifications; these are the genera Hepatica and the nobilis species, trinity grass, with trilobe leaves and flowers that see their color range from blue-violet to white-pink, up to Pulsatilla.

How to grow the Anemone

The Anemones (L., 1753) are a genus of plants in the Ranunculaceae family, which include a hundred species some spontaneous in Europe and others from South Africa or South America. In this sheet we will see how to grow the Anemone and the most suitable techniques for its physiology. Obviously the variability of these species is remarkable most of them bloom in the spring but the cultivation techniques remain similar.
The anemones have a height ranging from about 15 cm to one meter with bushy stems and blooms of many colors. However, it is a question of plants with very delicate and elegant petals that give a particular elegance both in pots and especially in garden beds.
Most of these species are cultivated beginning in spring and with mild temperatures around 15-20 ° C. The anemone prefers a half-shade exposure and away from strong winds we recommend the shelter behind walls or other hedges.

The anemone grows well in acid or sub-acid soils, with excellent drainage, with excellent organic substance (compost or earthworm humus) and very refined soil processing. The water intake should not be excessive, on average twice a week (but also depends on the external humidity conditions), with a slight increase in the flowering period.
The same techniques are used in the cultivation in pots provided that the containers are large with the provision in the bottom thereof of draining material (gravel, expanded clay, etc.), the soil composed with the characteristics of acidity and organic matter above. It is always better to use terracotta containers that allow greater transpiration.
The cultivation begins with the planting of the bulbs (with the roots facing downwards) in the late winter, at 8-10 centimeters of depth. In this period, before the growth of the plants, it is necessary to cover the ground with a light mulch of leaves or straw to protect them from the cold. When the plant is instead in bloom, multiplication occurs through the lateral rhizomes that the anemone produces abundantly.
During the vegetation phase of the anemone it is advised then, especially near the flowering and during this the pruning of the part of vegetation too dense to increase a little 'aeration and decrease possible parasitic attacks of both insects and fungal diseases. Moreover, to have a pleasant aesthetic appearance, weed cleaning is advisable.


  • 1 Life and career
    • 1.1 Writing
    • 1.2 Gravetye Manor
    • 1.3 Long-term impact on gardening
  • 2 The Wild Garden, 1870
  • 3 The English Flower Garden, 1883
  • 4 See also
  • 5 Notes
  • 6 References
  • 7 Further reading
  • 8 External links

Robinson began his garden work at an early age, as a garden boy for the Marquess of Waterford at Curraghmore, County Waterford. [4] From there, he went to the estate of an Irish baronet in Ballykilcavan, County Laois, Sir Hunt Johnson-Walsh, [5] and was put in charge of a large number of greenhouses at the age of 21. According to one account, as the result of a bitter quarrel, one cold winter night in 1861 he let the fires go out, killing many valuable plants. Other accounts consider the story to be a gross exaggeration. [6] Whether in haste after the greenhouse incident or not, Robinson left for Dublin in 1861, where the influence of David Moore, head of the botanical garden at Glasnevin, a family friend, helped him find work at the Botanical Gardens of Regent's Park , London, where he was given responsibility for the hardy herbaceous plants, specializing in British wildflowers. [7]

At that time, the Royal Horticultural Society's Kensington gardens were being designed and planted with vast numbers of greenhouse flowers in mass plantings. Robinson wrote that "it was not easy to get away from all this false and hideous" art "." But his work with native British plants did allow him to get away to the countryside, where he "began to get an idea (which should be taught to every boy at school) that there was (for gardens even) much beauty in our native flowers and trees. " [8]

Writing Edit

In 1866, at the age of 29, he became a fellow of the Linnean Society under the sponsorship of Charles Darwin, James Veitch, David Moore, and seven other distinguished botanists and horticulturists. Two months later, he left Regents Park to write for The Gardener's Chronicle and The Times, and represented the leading horticultural firm of Veitch at the 1867 Paris Exhibition. [9] He began writing many of his publications, beginning with Gleanings from French Gardens in 1868, The Parks, Gardens, and Promenades of Paris in 1869, and Alpine Flowers for Gardens, Mushroom Culture, and The Wild Garden in 1870. In 1871 he launched his own gardening journal, simply named The Garden, which over the years included contributions from notables such as John Ruskin, Oliver Wendell Holmes, Gertrude Jekyll, William Morris, Dean Hole, Frank Miles, Canon Ellacombe, and James Britten. [10] The Garden: An Illustrated Weekly Journal of Horticulture in All Its Branches was published from 1872 to 1927. [11]

His most influential books were The Wild Garden, which made his reputation and allowed him to start his magazine The Garden and The English Flower Garden, 1883, which he revised in edition after edition and included contributions from his lifelong friend Gertrude Jekyll, among others. She later edited The Garden for a couple of years and contributed many articles to his publications, which also included Gardening Illustrated (from 1879).

He first met Jekyll in 1875 — they were in accord in their design principles and maintained a close friendship and professional association for over 50 years. He helped her on her garden at Munstead Wood she provided plants for his garden at Gravetye Manor. Jekyll wrote about Robinson that:

. when English gardening was mostly represented by the innate futilities of the "bedding" system, with its wearisome repetitions and garish coloring, Mr William Robinson chose as his work in live to make better known the treasures that were lying neglected, and at the same time to overthrow the feeble follies of the "bedding" system. It is mainly owing to his unremitting labors that a clear knowledge of the world of hardy-plant beauty is now placed within easy reach of all who care to acquire it, and that the "bedding mania" is virtually dead. [12]

Robinson also published God's Acre Beautiful or The Cemeteries of The Future, in which he applied his gardening aesthetic to urban churchyards and cemeteries. His campaign included trying to win an unwilling public to the advantages of cremation over burial, and he quite freely shared unsavoury stories of what happened in certain crowded graveyards. [13] He was instrumental in the founding of Golders Green Crematorium and designed the gardens there, which replaced the traditional Victorian mourning graveyard with open lawn, flowerbeds, and woodland gardens. [14]

Gravetye Manor Edit

With his writing career a financial success, in 1884 Robinson was able to purchase the Elizabethan Manor of Gravetye near East Grinstead in Sussex, along with about 200 acres (0.81 km 2) of rich pasture and woodland. His diary of planting and care was published as Gravetye Manor, or Twenty Years of the Work round an old Manor House (1911). [15] Gravetye would find practical fulfillment of many of Robinson's ideas of a more natural style of gardening. Eventually it would grow to nearly 1,000 acres (4 km 2). [16]

Much of the estate had been managed as a coppiced woodland, giving Robinson the opportunity to plant drifts of scilla, cyclamen, and narcissus between the coppiced hazels and chestnuts. On the edges, and in the cleared spaces in the woods, Robinson established plantings of Japanese anemone, lily, acanthus, and pampas grass, along with shrubs such as fothergilla, stewartia, and nyssa. Closer to the house he had some flower beds throughout he planted red valerian, which he allowed to spread naturally around paving and staircases. [17] Robinson planted thousands of daffodils annually, including 100,000 narcissi planted along one of the lakes in 1897. Over the years he added hundreds of trees, some of them from American friends Charles Sprague Sargent and Frederick Law Olmsted. Other features included an oval-shaped walled kitchen garden, a heather garden, and a water garden with one of the largest collections of water lilies in Europe. [18]

Robinson invited several well-known painters to portray his own landscape artistry, including the English watercolourist Beatrice Parsons, the landscape and botanical painter Henry Moon, and Alfred Parsons. Moon and Parsons illustrated many of Robinson's works. [19]

After Robinson's death, Gravetye Manor was left to the Forestry Commission, who left it derelict for many years. In 1958 it was leased to a restaurateur who refurbished the gardens, replacing some of the flower beds with lawn. [20] Today, Gravetye Manor serves as a hotel and restaurant. [21]

Long-term impact on gardening Edit

Through his magazines and books, Robinson challenged many gardening traditions and introduced new ideas that have become commonplace today. He is most linked with introducing the herbaceous border, which he referred to by the older name of 'mixed border' — it included a mixture of shrubs, hardy and half-hardy herbaceous plants. He also advocated dense plantings that left no bare soil, with the spaces between taller plants filled with what are now commonly called ground cover plants. Even his rose garden at Gravetye was filled with saxifrage between and under the roses. Following a visit to the Alps, Robinson wrote Alpine Flowers for Gardens, which for the first time showed how to use alpine plants in a designed rock garden. [3]

His most significant influence was the introduction of the idea of ​​naturalistic gardening, which first appeared in The Wild Garden and was further developed in The English Flower Garden. The idea of ​​introducing large drifts of native hardy perennial plants into meadow, woodland, and waterside is taken for granted today, but was revolutionary in Robinson's time. In the first edition, he recommended any plant that could be naturalized, including half-hardy perennials and natives from other parts of the world — thus Robinson's wild garden was not limited to locally native species. Robinson's own garden at Gravetye was planted on a large scale, but his wild garden idea could be realized in small yards, where the 'garden' is designed to appear to merge into the surrounding woodland or meadow. Robinson's ideas continue to influence gardeners and landscape architects today — from home and cottage gardens to large estate and public gardens. [22]

In The Wild Garden [23] [24] [25] Robinson set forth fresh gardening principles that expanded the idea of ​​garden and introduced themes and techniques that are taken for granted today, notably that of "naturalized" plantings. Robinson's audience were not the owners of intensely gardened suburban plots, nor dwellers in gentrified country cottages seeking a nostalgic atmosphere nor was Robinson concerned with the immediate surroundings of the English country house. [26] Robinson's wild garden brought the untidy edges, where garden blended into the larger landscape into the garden picture: meadow, water's edge, woodland edges and openings.

The hardy plants Robinson endorsed were not all natives by any means: two chapters are devoted to the hardy plants from other temperate climate zones that were appropriate to naturalizing schemes. The narcissus he preferred were the small, delicate ones from the Iberian peninsula. Meadowflowers included goldenrod and asters, rampant spreaders from North America long familiar in English gardens. Nor did Robinson's 'wild' approach refer to letting gardens return to their natural state — he taught a specific gardening method and aesthetic. The nature of plants' habit of growth and their cultural preferences [27] dictated the free design, in which human intervention was to be kept undetectable.

Without being in any sense retrograde, Robinson's book brought attention back to the plants, which had been eclipsed since the decline of "gardenesque" plantings of the 1820s and 30s, during the use of tender annuals as massed color in patterned schemes of the mid- century. The book's popularity was largely due to Robinson's promise that wild gardening could be easy and beautiful that the use of hardy perennials would be less expensive and offer more variety than the frequent mass planting of greenhouse annuals and that it followed nature, which he considered the source of all true design. [28]

In The English Flower Garden, Robinson laid down the principles that revolutionized the art of gardening. Robinson's source of inspiration was the simple cottage garden, long neglected by the fashionable landscapists. In The English Flower Garden he rejected the artificial and the formal, specifically statuary, topiary, carpet bedding, and waterworks — comparing the modern garden to "the lifeless formality of wall-paper or carpet." The straight lines and form in many gardens were seen by Robinson to "carry the dead lines of the builder into the garden." [29] He admired nature's diversity, and promoted creepers and ramblers, smaller plantings of roses, herbaceous plants and bulbs, woodland plants, and winter flowers.

Robinson compared gardening to art, and wrote in the first chapter:

The gardener must follow the true artist, however modestly, in his respect for things as they are, in delight in natural form and beauty of flower and tree, if we are to be free from barren geometry, and if our gardens are ever to be true pictures. And as the artist's work is to see for us and preserve in pictures some of the beauty of landscape, tree, or flower, so the gardener's should be to keep for us as far as may be, in the fulness of their natural beauty, the living things themselves. [30]

The first part of The English Flower Garden covered garden design, emphasizing an approach that was individual and not stereotypical: "the best kind of garden grows out of the situation, as the primrose grows out of a cool bank." [31] The second part covered individual plants, hardy and half-hardy, showing artistic and natural use of each plant — with several articles included from The Garden and chapters contributed by leading gardeners of the day, including Gertrude Jekyll, who contributed the chapter on "Color in the Flower Garden" [31]

This book was first published in 1883, with the last and definitive edition published in 1933. During Robinson's lifetime, the book found increasing popularity, with fifteen editions during his life. For fifty years, The English Flower Garden was considered a bible by many gardeners. [32]

Caring for Bamboo Plants

Bamboo plant care after the plants are established is pretty straightforward. Bamboo does best if it gets at least 1 inch (2.5 cm ..) of water a week, either from rainfall or manual watering. Water bamboo deeply to encourage deep roots, which will help protect your bamboo from drought.

If possible, do not rake up bamboo leaves from the bamboo roots. The leaves will help keep the roots protected and moist. They will also return essential nutrients to the soil as they decompose, which will encourage bamboo growth.

Adding a layer of mulch to bamboo roots will also keep your bamboo growing strong.

Proper bamboo plant care recommends that a layer of compost or balanced fertilizer be added in the spring.

La Principessa Apartment, Eboli (Italy) - Deals & Reviews

Less than 0.2 miles from Eboli city center, La Principessa features guest rooms with garden views. This Venue entices guests with free parking available nearby.


The accommodation lies within 9 miles from AquaFarm. It is also just a 30 minutes' drive from Isola Verde AcquaPark. Castello Colonna is within walking distance of this hotel. It is situated a few steps from PalaSele.


The rooms with heating, a pantry and hi-fi are offered for guests' convenience. Some rooms include an electric kettle, a dishwasher and a washing machine for self-catering.

Eat & Drink

The property serves an Italian breakfast. There are several restaurants nearby, such as Vico Rua pizza e giardino, Deus ex Eboli Ristopub Cuna Kitchen and Ristorante Piazzetta Santa Sofia.


Wireless internet is available in the entire apartment for free.

Guest Parking

Public parking is possible at a location nearby for free.

Controlling Bamboo Growth

Sometimes bamboo growing in your yard will grow too much. It is important to find out how aggressive your variety of bamboo plants are. If you have a vigorous growing bamboo, such as the running type, you will want to consider planting it in a barrier or installing a barrier if the clump is already established. The barrier should go down at least 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm.) Underground, if not more, and be 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm.) Above ground. The barrier should surround the bamboo completely.

Once the barrier is installed, check the top of the barrier at least once a year. Cut back any bamboo growing over the top of the barrier to prevent it from escaping.

Caring for bamboo plants is almost care free, especially if growing the clumping variety vs. the running, more invasive type. Also, check with your local extension office beforehand to see if planting the running bamboo varieties is allowed, as in some areas it may be banned, though the clumping bamboo is typically fine.

Enjoy the tropical and Asian flair that having bamboo growing in your garden is sure to add.


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