By: Stan V. Griep, American Rose Society Consulting Master Rosarian, Rocky Mountain District
By Stan V. Griep
American Rose Society Consulting Master Rosarian – Rocky Mountain District
Kordes roses have a reputation for beauty and hardiness. Let’s look at where Kordes roses come from and what, exactly, is a Kordes rose.
Kordes roses come from Germany. This rose type’s origin roots date back to 1887 when Wilhelm Kordes founded a nursery for the production of rose plants in a small town near Hamburg, Germany. The business did very well and was moved to Sparrieshoop, Germany in 1918 where it is still in operation to this day. At one time, the company had a peak production of over 4 million roses a year, which made them one of the top rose nurseries in Europe.
The Kordes rose breeding program is still one of the largest in the world. Each rose plant selected from many seedlings each year must go through a seven year trial before being released for sale to the general public. These roses are exceptionally hardy. Being a cold climate Rosarian, I know that a rose that has survived its trial period in a cold climate country is bound to be good in my rose beds.
The top goals of the Kordes-Sohne rose breeding program are winter hardiness, quick repeat blooms, fungal disease resistance, unique colors and forms of bloom, abundance of blooms, fragrance, self-cleaning, good height and fullness of plant and rain resistance. This seems like a lot to ask of any plant or rose bush, but lofty goals make for good plants for the gardeners of the world.
Kordes-Sohne roses of Germany have many different varieties of roses available for your rose beds, such as Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, Grandiflora, shrub, tree, climbing and miniature rose bushes. Not to mention their beautiful old roses and ground cover roses.
Their series of Fairytale roses are both a delight to the eye as well as a delight in their naming. Having a Fairytale rose bed would be a grand rose bed indeed with rose bushes like:
And this is to name only a few in this wonderful line of shrub rose bushes. Some say this line is the Kordes roses answer to the David Austin English shrub roses and a fine line of competition they are too!
Some of the popular Kordes rose bushes I have in my rose beds or have had over the years are:
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With some prior planning, you can set your rose bush up for a successful blooming season.
The rose bush you buy at the nursery probably looks nothing like the picture on the container's tag, and certainly nothing like the beautiful plant you imagine growing in your garden. Regardless of the variety of rose bush (and there are oh-so-many options) you choose, they often come wrapped in plastic, packed in sawdust, and resemble nothing more than a thorny stick. However, these plants are just waiting for the right environment to grow, bloom, and show off their natural beauty. Before purchasing a wagonload of rose plants, and then scratching your head over what to do with those scraggly things, read up for tips on how to prepare a proper home for your rose bushes.
Time it Right. As excited as we all are to get out and dig in the garden at the first hint of warmer weather, we need to practice restraint. Rose bushes should be planted when temperatures are between 40 and 60 degrees, and when all chances of freezing temperatures have passed. This will give the plant time to settle in and form strong roots before the full heat of the summer hits.
Seek Sunshine. Fortunately for those of us living in the sunny South, roses love sunshine. Choose a planting site with at least six or more hours of full sun and leave the shade for some of the other plants that thrive in the shadows. One caveat: if you are in an area with extremely hot growing seasons and limited water/rainfall, your roses will appreciate the relief offered by some afternoon shade.
Look for Protection. Choose a site that is protected from strong winds, and avoid planting roses under trees, which may provide too much shade and cause damage from falling branches.
Don't Crowd Your Rose Bushes. There needs to be ample airflow around your plants to help prevent fungal diseases such as black spot and powdery mildew from forming. It is a good rule of thumb to plant roses at least 3 feet from other plants to avoid competition for soil nutrients. Now, let's get those roses in the ground.
Dig a hole that is slightly wider but equally in depth to the rose's root ball. Mix a handful of bone meal or superphosphate into the soil you removed and save it for refilling the hole once the rose is planted. This will help the rose bush acclimate to its new home. Don't feed it with anything else at planting time. You want the roots to take hold before the top starts sending out a lot of new growth. You can also mix in some compost or other organic matter with the soil if it is poor in quality.
First, it's important to protect your hands and arms with a pair of gardening gloves. If your rose came in a container, gently remove it from the pot: grip the plant by the base, invert the pot, and gently pull the plant out of the pot. You may need to wiggle the plant a bit to loosen some of the roots from the bottom of the pot.
If your rose is bare-root, unpackage the roots and inspect them. Clip away any roots that are broken or soft with rot. Soak the roots for about 12 hours before planting to ensure they don't dry out.
For container-grown roses, place the rootball in the hole, making sure the graft union is slightly below the soil line. When the plant settles, the graft union should be fully buried, about 1 inch underground. Gently separate the root ball in the planting hole, and fill with soil. Water the soil when the hole is just about filled to help settle it. Continue filling the hole and gently pat the soil down over the root zone to slightly compact it.
For bareroot roses, make a mound in the center of the hole, using a mixture of the removed soil and bone meal. Make the mound high enough so that when you place the rose bush on top of it, the knobby graft union is barely below the soil level. Spread the roots down the sides of the mound. Begin filling in the hole with soil, keeping the roots as spread out as possible.
Water deeply and add 1 to 2 inches of mulch around the base of the rose bush and over the root zone. To get the plant established, water new roses every other day, especially in dry weather. You will know the rose has acclimated when it starts to send out new growth, a real cause for gardener celebration.
Even after you see new growth, continue to water your rose every week to encourage a deep root system. Apply a granular fertilizer when it starts to leaf out in spring and after each flush of blooms, or about every six weeks throughout the growing season. Stop fertilizing about six weeks before your first frost date but continue watering until the ground is frozen. In frost-free climates, water the rose all winter.
(Korfloci01) - Europe’s Rose of the Year in 2011. Full blooms in a mix of soft apricot and pink with a delicate fragrance cover this attractive compact bush framed by dark leaves. Extremely healthy and easy care this delightful bush is ideal for small gardens, pots or borders. International awards of Gold and Silver medals include an ADR in 2009. Growth is to 60cm high. A lovely plant that is highly recommended.
|Features & Growth Habit|
|Treloar's Health Rating||4 Star Health Rating|
|Growth Height (approximate only)||60cm|
|Rose Type||Floribunda Rose|
|Borders & Hedges||Yes|
|Planting In Pots||Yes|
|Disclaimer||Every care is taken to provide accurate descriptions and information on each variety. Please note that characteristics will vary depending on the growing conditions. The information provided below may not be completely accurate for your climate or growing conditions.|
The colour images and descriptions are to be used as a guide only. Every care is taken to accurately describe growth habits and reproduce the correct colour in images. However, other factors such as Australia's varied climatic conditions, seasons and soil type can affect blooming and rose growth.
This item is now sold out for 2021. Pre-orders for the 2022 bare root season will open October 1st. Some varieties will also be available potted in spring, please click here for availability (potted roses can be ordered from September on wards).
We also recommend trying our Official Treloar Roses Stockists as you may be able to source this variety locally to you. Click here.
Please note this product is a bare rooted rose for delivery in Winter 2021 only. What is a bare rooted rose? Click here.
Earn Rose Reward Points by purchasing with us online. Click here for more information on our reward system.
Click here to learn more about our Treloar's Health Rating.
|Family:||Rosaceae (ro-ZAY-see-ee) (Info)|
|Genus:||Rosa (RO-zuh) (Info)|
|Additional cultivar information:||(aka Aloha®, KORwerug, Aloha Hawaii, Kordes Rose Aloha ®)|
|Registered or introduced:||2003|
USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F)
USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F)
USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F)
USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F)
USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F)
USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F)
Apricot and apricot blend (ab)
From semi-hardwood cuttings
This plant is said to grow outdoors in the following regions:
Sebastopol, California(2 reports)
Newtown Square, Pennsylvania
On Jun 26, 2015, coriaceous from ROSLINDALE, MA wrote:
The correct cultivar name of this rose is 'KORwesrug' (note spelling). It is a large-flowered climber and not a climbing hybrid tea.
It has become common among rose breeders to use trade names that are already in use for other roses. It is deplorable, but there's no stopping it. Kordes is the worst offender, but far from the only one.
That's why it's important to use the cultivar names, which are unique, though often unpronounceable. Only cultivar names are correctly enclosed in single quotes. Trade names are more clearly enclosed in double quotes, or (more correctly) set in a different typeface.
Willowind (below) is clearly talking about the Boerner rose.
On Jun 25, 2015, Koalamel from Newtown Square, PA wrote:
I'd like to add to 'dontruman's comment. Gene Boerner was my husband's great-uncle and I'm told 'Aloha' was the first rose he developed in his illustrious career. I don't understand why another rose can be given the same name. It's confusing and a slight to Gene Boerner!
On Feb 14, 2015, DaylilySLP from Dearborn Heights, MI (Zone 6a) wrote:
(Westerland (Shrub, Kordes, 1969) Ч Rugelda)
On Mar 18, 2011, dontruman from Victoria, TX wrote:
This is the modern Kordes "Aloha Hawaii", not to be confused with the pink "Aloha" hybridized by Boerner and registered in 1949. The Boerner "Aloha" can be grown as a bush or trained as a short climber up to 8 feet.
On Sep 18, 2010, willowwind from Moundridge, KS (Zone 6a) wrote:
I got 2 of these roses a year ago, and was surprised that one was actually blooming in the box when it arrived from Chamblee's. Other than during the winter, they have not been out of bloom at any time since their arrival. even through our terribly hot summer this year. They even outbloom my New Dawn. The blooms are a definite but soft pink, more like Zuzu's photo above, and they are fabulously fragrant. I can't say enough about these wonderful roses. They are in full sun with little windbreak (we live in the country) and they just seem to thrive.
On Mar 26, 2007, berrygirl from Braselton, GA (Zone 8a) wrote:
Bloom: Apricot orange, Apricot-pink blooms. Apricot-coloured with some pink and red shades. Moderate, Fruity fragrance. Average diameter 4". Large, very double, in bundles bloom form. Occasional repeat later in the season. Medium buds.
Habit: Climbing growth habit. Medium green foliage.
Height of 20' 10" (635 cm). Width of 39". (100 cm).
‘All a’ Twitter’ Description:
Twinkling brilliant orange
Tall, medium size blooms
*Roses require 6-8 hours of full sun. They will bloom with 4 hours of full sun but they have more foliage and less blooms.
“A goal without a plan is just a wish.” ― Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Plan your rose garden today