What is frigo strawberry seedling

Modern technologies do not stand still. The frigo method for growing strawberries confirms this.

Dutch specialists have developed a technology for growing berries of various varieties all year round. The frigo method is storing berries in a refrigerator under certain conditions and planting them in open ground or a greenhouse at different times. At the same time, the harvesting period can be adjusted as desired.

The essence of frigo technology

The artificial conditions created for the dormancy of strawberries define the essence of the invention. As soon as the initial dormancy phase begins in the open field, the bushes are dug up and transferred to a cold place. During rest, the berry protects the accumulated reserves for the offspring.

Method effectiveness:

If you fulfill all the requirements for digging in the fall and store it correctly in the refrigerator, planting can be carried out in spring in several stages. The method is effective in regions with a long autumn and a long growing season.

As a result of such procedures, berry picking is regulated.

In greenhouses, strawberries can be grown year-round, the main thing is to withstand dormant times. In greenhouse conditions, frigo can be used after 5 weeks.

The effectiveness of the frigo method is confirmed by positive aspects:

  • strawberries take root well after planting and grow quickly. This is due to the presence of only the root system and rudimentary leaves on the seedlings;
  • the compactness of the seedlings allows them to be transported over long distances;
  • during storage there are no disturbances in the biorhythms of culture
  • landing dates are regulated. This makes it possible to avoid frost;
  • the culture easily tolerates drought.


  • expensive planting material;
  • strict storage requirements;
  • additional costs for refrigeration units;
  • the frigo method may not be used in all regions.

Strawberry classification

Strawberries by the frigo method have 4 groups of class according to the diameter of the neck, the number of peduncles:

  1. A + extra - expensive planting material. Since elite varieties are used for seedlings, and the yield per hectare is 20 tons. The diameter of the neck of this class is from 20 mm and more, one bush is capable of forming up to 5 peduncles. To get seedlings of this class, they grow it up at school.
  2. A + - no less popular group, as it is well preserved after long-term storage. Productivity - 10 tons per hectare. The neck in diameter is inferior in size to the elite class - 15-18 mm, peduncles 2-3 pcs. This group is most often used for laying late harvests.
  3. BUT - a group of this class is used mainly on small plantations, since it has only 2 peduncles, but the harvest is obtained this year by 150 g per bush or 4 tons per hectare. Shoot diameter from 12 to 15 mm.
  4. IN - the group differs from all previous ones, by the presence of one peduncle and fruiting only in the second year. In the first year, the peduncle is removed. The diameter of the root collar is 8-12 mm.

Harvesting seedlings for growing

Before getting seedlings, it is worth planting uterine bushes. For this, high-yielding varieties are chosen, for example, Honeoye, Elsanta, Alba.

Algorithm of work:

  1. The soil for planting is sandy soil.
  2. As soon as peduncles appear, they are removed. The frigo method is aimed at ensuring that the bush accumulates nutrients for the offspring.
  3. During the growing season, the berry is periodically fed.
  4. By the fall, a phase of rest begins. This can be determined by the leaves - they acquire a brownish tint, and the roots are brown with a light tip. Only with these parameters, the bush is ready for digging for storage.
  5. After digging, the bushes are shaken off the ground and transferred to a cool room.
  6. All specimens are freed from leaves, except for those at the point of growth.
  7. Treatment with chemicals is underway: Hom, Forte, Fundazol. This will prevent the bushes from diseases and rot.

Seedlings are sorted into classes.

Storing seedlings and preparing them for planting in spring

Seedlings are tied in bundles of 50-100 pcs. and placed in cellophane bags, 0.45 mm thick.

Do not deviate from the thickness of the cellophane to the larger side. The seedlings will die.

The optimum storage temperature is 1.5 degrees Celsius. Deviations by 0.5 degrees Celsius in one direction or another are possible, but not more. The seedlings will begin to wake up or freeze. Keep humidity 90%.

Duration of storage of seedlings from 5 weeks to 9 months. If the seedlings are stored longer, the strawberries will lose their yield.

Planting frigo strawberries in the ground

Before planting in open ground, the soil is prepared in the fall. The site should be dug up and organic matter added. You can also plant siderates, and in the spring, plow the green mass. This method is relevant for poor soils.

Planting time is regulated by the climatic conditions of the region, mainly May-June. The second planting should be done in 60 days, then the harvest will be uninterrupted.

The direction of the rows should be southwest, on a straight or slightly sloping surface. For seedlings, use high beds. Planting time for strawberries is better in the evening or in cloudy weather. It is good to moisten the earth.

Algorithm of work:

  1. Seedlings are taken out of the refrigerator and awakened. For this, containers with planting material are opened and watered with warm water.

Do not expose the seedlings to sudden temperature changes.

  • Once the strawberries are thawed, they are sent to cold water for several hours to replenish moisture.
  • Pre-add any stimulant to the water, for example, Zircon.
  • The root system is cut 10 cm before planting. To speed up the process, a device is used that helps to deepen the root into the soil and at the same time cut it off.
  • Within 15 minutes, you need to plant the seedlings after you pulled them out of the water.
  • With thickened plantings, the step between the bushes is 15-20 cm, with ordinary ones - 30 cm.
  • Spread the roots and place the rosette above the ground level.
  • Water and mulch the soil, you can use black agrofibre with holes for the root system.

Continue daily irrigation for 10 days. Then, it is enough 1 time 5 days in the absence of rain.

Gardeners reviews

Gardeners share their experience with the frigo method:

Vladimir: I ordered class B frigo strawberries and was very disappointed as the root system is weak. I do not advise taking it, class A is better.

Alexander: I tried to find Frigo strawberries in retail, it turned out to be not so easy. There are 2,000 seedlings in packages. I would like such a product to be sold for summer residents, and not just for farmers.

Anatoly: I have been working with strawberries for many years and now I decided to try growing Frigo strawberries. Acquired seedlings of class A. The result is simply stunned. The yield was high, in comparison with simple varieties, and most importantly, quickly.

Maria: Received Italian and Dutch supplies of frigo strawberry seedlings. In the process of growing, the Italian turned out to be much better.

Oleg Ivanovich: I bought a frigo strawberry, class A. The seller advertised the products and said that I would collect 300 g from one bush, but received 30. The summer was hot, perhaps this is the reason. Planting was carried out on May 16, 13. The first harvest was harvested on July 1. In my opinion, it is better to buy class B and grow it until next year.

The frigo method gave farmers a fresh perspective on the possibilities of growing strawberries. When one hectare can be harvested from 4 to 20 tons of berries. Depending on the class of seedlings.

The description should start by mentioning that Frigo is not the name of the berry. And technologies for special preparation of planting material for plants of certain varieties. The technique consists in the fact that uterine bushes of high yields are planted in light soils, for example, sand. When fertilizing with this method, it is important to prevent the plant from blooming. It is necessary to create conditions under which the efforts of the variety will be directed not at flowering, but at reproduction.

The seedlings must separate, after which they must be well fed. Usually the ripening period occurs at the end of October. Frigo makes it clear the process on the foliage, which becomes brown in color, and the roots become brown in a uniform tone. White root ends are considered a normal manifestation of maturity.

Further, the seedlings of Frigo strawberries are dug up, moved to a cool place, shaken off the ground. It is important not to prune or wash an already mature plant. Next, on the Frigo bushes, you need to remove all the leaves. Leaving a couple of young options. Further. Frigo needs to be treated with fungicides. The Frigo strawberries must then be sorted by size and stored in bundles.

Important! Frigo strawberry seedlings must be stored under strictly defined conditions. They should be stored in plastic bags. Premises - refrigerating chambers, the temperature of which is up to -2 degrees. The moisture level in the refrigerator should not exceed 90%.

If all the above conditions are observed, then the variety is stored without compromising quality for about 2 weeks, which is very important for strawberries. If the yield is not so important, the shelf life is increased to 4 years or more.


In specialized laboratories, new varieties of strawberries are propagated in test tubes by cloning (microclonal propagation). This frees the plants from viral and bacterial diseases, creating clean lines. Such plants are planted on specially prepared soils in film tunnels. Further, strawberries are propagated, providing them with the best nutritional conditions, forming seedlings of the super-elite class. The mother plants are changed every 2 years. In the fall, when the prepared seedlings lay flower buds and enter the dormant stage, they dig it out, shake it off the soil (but do not wash it), and remove the leaves. After that, they are sorted into classes (depending on the diameter of the root collar). Then they are treated with fungicides (to prevent fungal and bacterial infections), tied in bunches and placed in special thin bags so that moisture does not evaporate, but the seedlings breathe, for storage. The storage temperature is from -1 to -20 C. During storage, a temperature difference of no more than 10 C. is allowed. Such seedlings can be stored for up to 9 months. It can be transported over long distances (in special refrigerators) and planted in batches, extending the fruiting period. The fruiting process begins 50-70 days after planting. Those. such seedlings are suitable for forcing in greenhouses and tunnel greenhouses, in hanging pots. It allows you to save planting areas and get a harvest on time. In subsequent years, such seedlings are no different from ordinary strawberries.

Life-giving cold

First I put all the seedlings in the refrigerator, however, since it melted there anyway, after a week I unpacked the package with it and planted the plants in cups with potting soil, spilling it well with a root growth stimulator... Since, let me remind you, frigo has no leaves, I planted it, carefully making sure that the hearts were above the soil level, and the roots themselves were well spread. I would also like to note that the seedlings came alive, packed in peat very carefully.

The best conditions for the survival and growth of the frigo root system will be at a temperature of 7-8 °, and the plants should not be exposed to direct sunlight.

Such parameters can be easily created in some special storage or in a warehouse (remember, I already mentioned that frozen seedlings are appreciated by farmers?), But I don't have any industrial economy. How to be? And then our loggia came to the rescue. Usually, summer residents there, judging by the letters, harden their seedlings that are gaining strength, but I will grow them there. Frigo went there. And, as it turned out, this was the most correct decision: strawberries quickly woke up from their cold sleep and began to develop well.

And at the very beginning of May, she moved to a garden bed. Naturally, first we her

prepared: my husband dug up the ground with a walk-behind tractor, I removed all the weeds, and then we applied special fertilizer for strawberries. Taking into account the experience of summer residents, I made the landings in two lines. In general, I want to express my gratitude to the gardeners who shared their experience of planting in narrow beds. We used it, and all our vegetables grow beautifully, it is very convenient to collect and care for.

But back to strawberries. I really didn’t want to embarrass myself in front of my neighbors with my newfangled frigo, and the strawberries didn’t let me down - they sprinted, bloomed and in the same year gave berries of unprecedented beauty and taste! Since we can only visit the dacha on weekends, my husband adapted an automatic sprinkler to the garden bed, which watered the strawberries in our absence, and then I regularly put the cut grass from the lawn under the bushes.

And the next year we collected several cans of gorgeous berries from my beauty. They were just like from an exhibition: sweet, dense, shiny and perfectly tolerated transportation (you could forget about strawberry "jelly" like about a nightmare). Eh, it's a pity, I didn't take a picture of the harvest basins ... We fed both parents and friends, made a bunch of blanks. What can I say! Take a better look at the photo (sorry for the quality of the pictures, the camera in my phone is not very good).

It remains to add that the variety itself is called Rumba. And it turned out exactly the same as in the pictures from my ordered boxes. Early strawberries with long-term fruiting! And now all my friends in gardening are asking for a mustache for divorce.

Features of planting strawberries frigo

The technology provides for the use of high-yielding crop varieties for planting. Among them:

  • Honey
  • Alba
  • Clery
  • Sonata
  • Elsanta
  • Asia
  • Roxanne
  • Ducat
  • Shelf
  • Chamora Turusi.

Seedlings are sold frozen, packed in sphagnum (moss). During transportation or shipment, the safety of plants is up to 21 days.

Frozen seedlings of frigo strawberries, after being removed from the refrigerator, should lie for 20-24 hours in a package. Having unpacked the seedlings, they examine the planting material, making sure that there is no mold or traces of rot on the bushes. After thawing, the roots of the seedlings are soaked in water and only then are they planted.

  • open ground ridges
  • tunnels
  • greenhouses
  • containers, pots.

For temporary planting at home, pots are suitable (for example, before the onset of stable heat), after which the bushes are determined to a permanent place.

The ridges are prepared in advance. When planning spring plantings - from autumn, digging up the soil, adding superphosphate, potassium salt, rotted compost or mullein. It is advisable to make ridges (height 35-40 cm, width - 80-100 cm), with row spacings up to 90-100 cm. From one hole to another leave up to 50-60 cm. Row spacings are mulched. They practice planting seedlings in a film, having previously made cuts on the surface according to the scheme.

The roots are straightened at the bushes, they are cut to 10-14 cm. In the hole, the roots are placed freely, vertically down, without folding into a circle. The root rosette is placed so that its middle is at the level of the soil surface. It is unacceptable to deepen it (it will block, rot), and also leave it completely on the surface (it will dry out).

Seedling preparation

You received seedlings without leaves and with large roots. Immediately, we note that an unusual type of seedling is not a sign of a low-quality product. The main thing now is to prepare it for planting as quickly and correctly as possible, so as not to harm the elite varieties.

How to prepare strawberry and strawberry bushes for planting:

  1. Keep the bushes at room temperature for several hours (in the film in which they came so that the roots do not dry out.
  2. You can also speed up the process - pour warm water over the roots and remove the packaging. It is also advisable to soak them first in cold water (for 3 hours), and then in a biostimulator. Only the roots are soaked.
  3. Thawed seedlings cannot be kept in bags for a long time; they must be planted in a permanent place during the first days after the necessary preparation.

If you have received seedlings, and it is too early to plant them, plant the bushes in peat pots. And then, when the weather improves, transplant it to the garden bed.

Pros and cons of frigo technology

Of course, there are many advantages to modern technology. Let us note only the main ones:

  • high yield
  • ripening of ripe berries 8-9 weeks after planting in the ground
  • guaranteed healthy planting material
  • high survival rate of seedlings
  • the availability of many varieties suitable for different regions and climatic zones
  • the ability to harvest in the "off-season".

However, the overseas miracle has its drawbacks:

  • seedlings are more expensive than usual
  • strawberries are early-growing only for 1 year of life, and then they are no different from ordinary berries.

According to professional gardeners, growing frigo strawberries is a real breakthrough. So maybe you should try an unusual and very promising seedlings already in the upcoming season?

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