Room rose care - transplant and disease; indoor rose in winter; indoor roses after purchase


Houseplants Published: July 11, 2012 Reprinted: Last edits:

I tried to collect for you the most relevant tips for caring for indoor roses. Compliance with these simple rules will help you, as it helped me, to bring your indoor roses to the state of the highest decorativeness, so to speak. For the sixth year now, indoor roses have been the cause of my special pride and the black envy of my friends, who had to be handed out by cut to avoid the evil eye.
So, my "golden" rules for growing indoor roses.

How to care for a room rose

  1. Indoor roses feel better on windows and balconies facing south and southeast.
  2. Don't forget about feeding indoor roses!
  3. In the summer, indoor roses can be exposed to fresh air, it will only benefit them.
  4. During flowering, feed indoor roses at least once a week.
  5. During the active growing season, roses should be watered regularly and generously.
  6. Don't forget to repot your indoor roses in a larger pot as needed.

Room rose care point by point

Home care rules

Indoor roses react painfully to low water temperatures when watering, extreme heat in summer and high indoor temperatures in winter. Regularly inspect a room rose for pests or diseases: the sooner you find them, the less harm they will cause to the plant. Roses must be transplanted very carefully, since these flowers are characterized by increased sensitivity of the roots. As soon as the buds and flowers of a room rose begin to wither and dry, remove them without regret: dead flowers take away the plant's strength!

Indoor roses after purchase

Firstly, do not rush to transplant into a new pot, even if the old one absolutely does not fit into your interior. Wait! Let the rose adapt to its new home. As I said, the indoor rose plant loves south and southeast windows.

Roses are very fond of evening bathing: spray roses with cool boiled water, but do not abuse this procedure in too hot summer!

Transfer

How to transplant a room rose? I advise you to carry out the transshipment of roses during the waxing moon. In each tear-off calendar, they must write the phase of the moon for each day. When transplanting, I remind you once again, be careful not to damage the roots!

To protect the pot from overheating, I advise you to bury a room rose in a pot, taken out in the garden for the summer, in a box with earth.

When watering a room rose, make sure that the water flows under the root and does not fall on the leaves. The best time to water is early morning and evening.

Top dressing

I feed indoor roses with mullein solution once every two weeks, and during flowering - weekly. Sick and recently transplanted plants do not need to be fed. In addition, roses do not take good nutrition on cloudy and cold days.

Room rose in winter

How to care for a room rose in winter? Before sending my roses "to winter apartments", I cut the roses so that on each branch there are 4-5 living buds. Pruning a room rose for the winter allows roses not to be late in blooming in the new season. If you forget to prune your roses before winter, pruning can be done in early spring.

Caring for indoor roses in winter comes down to watering every three days and spraying. Make sure that the air in the room where the plant hibernates is not too dry: place containers with clean water around the roses for evaporation.

When to take a flower outside

As soon as the nights become warm and the threat of spring frosts has passed, the rose can be taken out to the balcony. The rose must first adapt to light in the shade for three weeks, and then it can be rearranged from shade to diffused light.

Indoor roses are afraid of drafts, but a cylinder made of thick paper can protect a pot of roses from them. The height of the protective sheath should be about half the height of the potted plant.

Reproduction of roses

The topic "how to propagate roses by cuttings" is included in a separate article.

Pests and diseases

Powdery mildew is enemy number one. Spray the rose with a solution of baking soda at the rate of two teaspoons per liter can of water. Make sure that the soda solution does not get on the soil. It is better to cover the ground during the procedure.

The enemy of indoor roses number two is the spider mite. Special preparations will protect from this guest: Actellik, Fitoverm, Neoron works great - it kills not only adult ticks, but also laid eggs.

One of my friends a flower girl sprays roses with pure alcohol, as she believes that he fights mites better than store-bought preparations. I haven’t tried it, I don’t know. After treating the plant, thoroughly disinfect the place where it stood, as mites may remain there.

In general, a rose is a very grateful flower, take care of it with love, and it will surely answer you with an amazingly beautiful flowering.

Literature

  1. Indoor Plants Information

Sections: Houseplants Beautiful flowering Pink (Rosaceae) Plants on P Roses


Indoor rose

Since ancient times, the rose has been considered the queen of flowers, a symbol of beauty and perfection. How graceful are hybrid tea, tea, polyanthus and other types. Undoubtedly, a home rose could be the best decoration in the house. However, growing a rose at home is not an easy task: you need large containers, free space, and an appropriate temperature regime. It is much easier to purchase a room rose, because it does not require much space, and its beauty is in no way inferior to its relatively large relatives.

The beauty of a room rose makes flower growers come to terms with the capricious nature of this flower. This plant can decorate any interior, but so that the rose does not disappoint, you must follow the basic rules for caring for a decorative bush.


Growing and caring for a room rose at home

Growing a room rose is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. It is important to competently and responsibly approach this process and then the queen of flowers will delight with her grace and charm all year round. It should be noted that a rose can be found quite often in the garden, but at home it is a rare occurrence. Many growers refer to the capriciousness of the plant, which is the case. But this is not an obstacle if there is desire and patience. A rose needs care, attention and special growing conditions.

Before planting a flower, you need to familiarize yourself with many possible problems. First you need to decide on the variety. It is important that it is frost-resistant and that the flower is not disturbed by severe frosts or an arid climate. Next, you need to create favorable conditions and then talk about reproduction. That is, to start growing a rose at home, it is enough to learn more about three points:

  • The varieties of roses that are supposed to be grown in the house.
  • Prerequisites for this.
  • Varieties of varieties of home roses.

There are a sufficient number of varieties of culture, ranging from small bushes to ordinary single flowers. Each variety requires separate conditions and temperatures, so the first criterion is climate. When it is hot at home, then they choose specimens that will be as comfortable as possible in a warm time, if it is cool, then vice versa. Decorative roses for home growing are conventionally divided into 4 types: miniature, Bengal, tea and polyanthus.

More details about each species in the table:

In gardens, you can often find standard roses, which are not a separate group. Rather, it is a cunning garden trick used by professionals to fully reveal the magnificence of these graceful flowers. They are small trees with a long trunk and a lush crown of rosebuds and green mass. Such unique ones are dissolved earlier than bush ones, with a longer period. And in combination with different varieties of roses, it is possible to create multi-tiered spectacular compositions.

As a rule, any cool room with high humidity will do. And it is better to place it where there is enough light for the stable growth of the rose. The ideal place is a window somewhere in the kitchen or living room, so that guests can admire this flower. In a hot environment, the rose dries up, therefore, it is fenced off from all heating devices, for example, with foil.

Is there enough light for the plant, just to understand by its appearance:

  • With enough foliage, it has a dark green color and a glossy surface.
  • A brown border and a withered appearance of the leaves indicate excessive sun exposure. More often this is observed on the south side.
  • Pallor, lethargy and shallowness of the leaf component also signal too abundant lighting.

In winter, it is advisable to illuminate roses with artificial lamps, since the daylight hours are too short. If you ignore such a point of care, the bushes lose their decorative effect: there is no flowering, the leaves wither, and insect pests start.

The backlight is placed on top, at a distance of 30–40 cm. In case of lateral exposure to ultraviolet rays, burns are possible.

To maintain optimal humidity in the room, it is enough to periodically spray the bush with water a little warmer than room temperature (by 2-3 degrees). In summer, the potted plant can be taken outside. In the apartment, a balcony is ideal for this purpose, because there is a fresh air flow and enough light.

Rose is demanding on only one factor - humidity, so it is often sprayed... In addition, it will help get rid of insects and other pests. It is worth remembering that spraying in cloudy weather can be fraught with wilting of the flower, dampness is contraindicated for crops.

Comfortable temperature for a room rose: in summer - 22–25 ° С, in spring - 13–17 ° С, in winter - 4–6 ° C. Keeping it cool during the winter, when the flower is asleep, guarantees a successful set of flower buds and timely dissolution.

Particular attention should be paid to the potting soil. Firstly, it should always be moist at approximately the same level, and secondly, it should contain useful minerals that can increase and accelerate the growth of a rose. It is acceptable to leave the water in the pan of the pot for no more than two hours, after which it is drained to avoid disastrous consequences.

There are special requirements for the pot, which determines the degree of survival and development of the flower. A ceramic container is ideal, allowing the roots to fully absorb oxygen. Preference is given to an elongated shape, with an extended top, so that moisture has time to saturate the root system. Optimal soil composition: sod land, river sand and humus. The ratio is taken - 4: 1: 4. If there is no time and desire to engage in self-fertilization of the soil, then it is enough just to visit the nearest gardening store and buy special land there. The cost is not too high, and you will not have to change it.

Caring for potted roses requires strict adherence to the rules. Difficulties usually arise at the initial stage, when a ready-made plant is purchased and brought into the house. In order not to lose culture, they resort to the following actions:

  • first of all, they examine the bush for damage and insects
  • remove faded buds, darkened leaves
  • shoots are shortened, leaving 4-5 live buds on each
  • as disinfection, washed with soapy water, then sprayed with an insecticidal agent
  • the next day, they are treated with fungicides against fungal diseases.

One week after purchase transplant the plant into a new pot, replacing the substrate... Prior to that, for the fastest adaptation to the new environment, the rose is sprayed 2-3 times with a growth activator.

For transplanting, a pot is selected that is more spacious than the previous one. A drainage layer about 7 cm thick is laid on the bottom. If the soil is purchased, then vermiculite is added to make it friable. Previously, the earthen lump is watered abundantly, which facilitates the removal of the bush. The old earth is gently shaken from the roots. Place the seedling in a new container, straighten the roots and fall asleep, leaving the root collar open.

Next, you need to create a greenhouse microclimate for the rose - cover with a glass cap. It is removed daily for airing. At this time, the rose is sprayed, and until the water has completely evaporated from the foliage, it is not closed again. After 8-10 days, there is no need for such a shelter, since the plant is completely rooted. The next transplant with a change of soil is carried out the next year. The best time for such a procedure is early spring.

When watering, you should adhere to certain norms:

  • For moistening, the water is pre-defended and poured strictly into the root area. In spring and summer, the recommended water temperature is 17-23 ° C, in winter - no more than 18 ° C.
  • The frequency of humidification varies, focusing on the degree of drying of the upper soil layer.
  • Water should be abundant so that the roots are completely saturated with moisture, especially during the flowering period. Indoor rose is enough 1 time in 5-7 days.

In order to prevent a lag in development, organic and mineral dressings are alternately introduced. During intensive growth, fertilize once every 2 weeks. They start a month after the transplant.

Pruning is done as the bush thickens. For the winter, shoots are cut 10 cm from the top. And the remaining fragments will become suitable material for obtaining a new plant by rooting.

Domestic roses can be propagated in several ways: by seed, grafting and cuttings. The last option is the most effective, since it allows you to get a plant with full preservation of the original varietal qualities. For this, a well-developed shoot with a full-fledged bud is chosen. Such material will take root faster, due to the large supply of nutrients. Cut with a sharp instrument at a low angle to a length of at least 30 cm.All vegetation is removed from the stem.

The resulting cut is immersed in water for 15–20 minutes, then the sections are treated with potassium permanganate. Before planting in the soil, keep the day in a manganese solution. The workpieces are deepened into a sand mixture, moistened well and covered with a film or a plastic jar. Further care implies regular spraying, ventilation, removal of condensate accumulated inside. With the appearance of young leaves, the cap is completely removed. In order for the rooted specimen to fully develop, in the first year of flowering, the buds are immediately cut off.

A rose in a pot can be attacked by harmful insects and affected by fungal diseases. This usually happens as a result of florist errors, as well as poor living conditions.

The main problems encountered during cultivation are shown in the table:

ProblemsSignsReasons and methods of struggle
Mottling on foliageScattered small spots of dark color appear on the leaf platesThe infection is caused by the fungus entering through the irrigation water. The reason may be dry indoor air and stuffiness. The bushes are treated with "Fundazol" or another fungicidal preparation
Powdery mildewWhite loose bloom appears to appear on the leaves and shoots.The development of the disease causes the cold. The damaged parts are removed, and the bush is sprayed with "Topsin", "Topaz", "Oxyhom"
Does not bloomThe leaf mass is actively growing, but there are no bud ovariesThis happens when there is a lack of sunlight. The pot must be rearranged to a more illuminated place.
Rotting rootsLeaves wither sharply and fall off, growth is inhibitedFrequent uncontrolled watering leading to waterlogging
Spider miteThe presence of cobwebs between the leaves and on the stem. A yellow spot appears on the leaf plates, there is a loss of a rich green colorReduced humidity. Treat the plant 3-4 times with insecticides every 5-6 days
AphidFrom above, the leaves become sticky, from below they are covered with black specks.Violation of humidity and temperature conditions. Treatment methods are the same as for spider mite attacks.

Growing roses at home requires complete dedication, but all year round it will be possible to admire the colorful flowering and inhale the amazing aroma. Only if all the care recommendations are followed: regular watering, appropriate feeding, disease prevention, can you really grow a whole flower greenhouse on the windowsill. It is important to maintain comfortable conditions of detention, since the slightest deviations from the norm lead to disastrous consequences, up to death.


Growing and caring for a rose in a pot

Growing a decorative rose comes down to regular caring for it. Care, in turn, consists in regular watering, feeding and forming a bush (pruning).

Summer rose care

In the summer, when the indoor rose is especially actively developing, it must be watered regularly, fed in time, sprayed and washed leaves and shoots. Caring for a room rose in a pot under such conditions should be of high quality and thorough. This approach allows you to protect the plant from the negative consequences of inadequate care.

It is very important to rotate the rose regularly around its axis so that the bush receives sufficient illumination from all directions. Thus, it will be possible to get a normally developing bush.

Caring for a rose in autumn

With the arrival of autumn, when the air temperature drops below + 15 ° C, the decorative rose moves to a warm place, with installation on the southern windowsill. During this period, the growth rate begins to decrease. Therefore, plant feeding is stopped, and watering is reduced to a minimum.

Winter rose care

Indoor rose in winter is in a state of rest. It does not grow and, moreover, does not bloom. During this period, she constantly sheds leaves due to inconsistencies in the conditions of detention. In apartments in winter, the air is dry, which negatively affects the rose. To maintain moisture, it is advisable to put the rose on a tray with water. In addition, the rose needs regular spraying.

Spring rose care

With the arrival of spring, the home rose will intensify its growth. During this period, fresh leaves appear. With the onset of active growth, watering a room rose is increased so that the substrate in the container does not have time to dry out.


Possible growing problems

Mistakes made when caring for a rose cause it to feel unwell. Often worried about the lack of flowers on the plant, the main purpose of which is to bloom and smell.

There are several reasons for this:

  • The most common is the absence of a dormant period.
  • Insufficient lighting
  • Unsuitable soil composition
  • Lack or lack of nutrients in the soil
  • Incorrect pot size.

A weakened plant is attacked by pests and diseases.

The plant dries up

The rose dries up in a room that is too hot. You can save the situation by moving the flower away from the heat source or placing it in a pallet with wet expanded clay, not forgetting to moisten the soil. It is useful to spray the leaves.

Quite often, the pet dries out, and the leaves begin to fall off due to decay of the root system caused by excessive watering, which leads to waterlogging of the soil, or the use of cold water. Too dense soil does not have time to dry out before the next watering, which also causes root rot.You can solve the problem by clearing the roots from the old soil and removing the rotten roots, they are soft and transparent, and the rest can be washed in a weak pink solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate). Then keep the roots in a solution of the fungicide "Fitosporin-M" for half an hour, then dry them in the air for 2 hours. Transplant into another container with fresh, loose and nutritious soil.

The foliage turns yellow

If the leaves turn yellow, the cause may be waterlogged soil in the pot. To restore the flower, watering is stopped for a while, just spraying the leaves.

If there are signs of acidification of the soil, the flower is transplanted into a substrate for roses purchased in the store.

Note! It is useful to feed a yellowing flower with complex fertilizers, for example, "Bona Forte" or "Greenwold".

Others

If a newly acquired flower begins to shed its leaves, it thus responds to a change in its environment. It is enough to find a corner for him on a warm-lit windowsill without drafts in order to regain his former lively appearance.

Withering of flowers and buds, blackening of leaves and their dropping may indicate a fungal infection, an invasion of pests or frostbite of a rose. That is why the flower brought from the store is not placed where the green pets are located, arranging a two-week quarantine.

Spots on the leaves appear due to too high temperature and high humidity, very dense soil in the pot, thickening of the plantings. Brown spots grow, parts of the plant die off. The affected areas should be immediately removed, the whole plant should be treated with a preparation containing copper or sulfur.


The optimal time for transplanting a room rose is spring, but in some cases this operation can be carried out in December, until the flower is completely dormant. To do this, water the rose abundantly, then gently shake it out of the upturned pot.

A new planting container should be completely ready by that time. Previously, a layer of expanded clay is laid out on the bottom of another pot, which acts as a drainage. There should be a hole in the bottom of the pot for excess water to escape.

The soil for planting should be light and nutritious, the best option is a mixture containing sand, humus and turf. The transplanted rose is placed in the center of the container and sprinkled with a sufficient amount of soil.

After that, it is advisable to move it to a dark room for a day, making it possible to survive the stress of the transplant with minimal stress. During this period, you should not be zealous with watering, it is enough to spray the leaves.

As the roses take root, they are transferred to a bright place, giving preference to the southern part of the house. Further care for a room rose in a pot involves only watering and monitoring the plant.

Experienced growers know that even at home in autumn and winter, the plant can be attacked by pests or diseases. For the sake of protecting the rose from negative effects, you will have to constantly inspect for the timely identification of the problem.

Caring for a room rose in a pot in the cold season - periodic watering and rest, provided you are in a warm and bright room without drafts. It is possible to judge how well the plant overwintered only with the onset of spring and the manifestations of its awakening. With proper care, you don't have to worry about the condition of the plant at home in autumn and winter.

Doubts among florists can arise only with frequent changes in temperature indicators or violations of the humidity regime. If you want to keep the rose healthy, it is important to create all the necessary conditions for it. It is much more difficult to rehabilitate and revive the affected flower than to initially preserve it in a healthy state. Otherwise, there is a high probability of complete death of a room rose.


Winter preparation and care

After heating appears in our apartments in mid-October, and the daylight hours become noticeably shorter, our rose clearly begins to mope. Flowers bloom underdeveloped, their number is sharply reduced, and leaves fall near the bush. The best we can do during this period is to give the rose a rest. To do this, in November, watering is slowly reduced to 1-2 times a week, the bush is cut off and sent to a cool room with a temperature of 5-8 ° C until February. Such a place can be a loggia, a basement, a cool storage room or a glazed balcony.

J. Tadeusz: “The main problem is dry air, especially in winter when the plant must hibernate. The place should be sunny, well lit, but not in direct sunlight. In winter, the main problem for indoor roses is central heating. It is best to reduce watering for the winter and put the rose in a bright and cool place. The air temperature should be between 15 and 24C. Light in indoor conditions can be sorely lacking. For this, you can use fluorescent lamps or special phytolamps. If it is not possible to highlight the plants, then it is best to lower the air temperature even more, to ten degrees, in order to completely slow down the development of the plant. To maintain air humidity, you can periodically spray the air next to the roses without splashing on the leaves themselves. To avoid fungal diseases. You can generally arrange real natural conditions for the plant by sending it into a deep sleep, gradually reducing watering to a minimum and lowering the temperature of the content to 0C. The plant will shed its foliage and after that it will not need light at all. "

It is best to reduce watering for the winter period and put the rose in a bright and cool place.

In February, the rose is transferred to a permanent place, and the rose usually shows its readiness for this with swollen buds. At first, watered very carefully, accustoming to constantly wet soil.

J. Tadeusz: “In the summer, it is optimal to take the rose out into the fresh air, it is good if you have a balcony. Better yet, take her to the garden, to the dacha and leave her there for the entire summer period. For roses, fresh air will be ideal conditions for good development and flowering. "

Rosa, of course, is a girl with a rather capricious temperament - she suffers after changing her house, she can get sick for no reason, she will not forgive us for dry soil through inattention. And he will show his cool temper, throwing off every single bud and flowers. But then she sleeps for 3 months, and blooms for 7 months a year. Frankly, this is a flower for selfless, tireless lovers of beauty, who begin their day with a raid on all windows with flowers and end it with the meditative pleasure of admiring their plant treasures.

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127 comments

Thank you for the article. I love my roses very much, I consider them unpretentious. The stems of my beauties are long, blooming all year round. The flowers are large, fragrant. In winter I spray it regularly, 2 times a day. I live in a very dry climate, in Kazakhstan. In the evenings I turn on additional lighting. I wish to achieve a more compact growth of my favorites, from time to time I cut the longest stems, but the rose stubbornly stretches up. I would be grateful for a hint.

Hello. Please help with advice. I bought a mini rose a month ago, made in Holland. 4 plants were planted in a small pot. The flowers were darkened, a friend suggested to cut them off so that the stems did not start to turn black. On one of the bushes, the stem still turned black, I sprinkled it with phytosporin, but it did not help, as a result, the whole bush turned black to the roots. Now the same nonsense started with a nearby bush. What to do? Maybe you need to plant the bushes in different pots? I'm afraid, but I don't want to lose the remaining bushes either. A friend says, you can not plant, that due to separation, the roots can be damaged and all the plants will die. Maybe you can still be neat?

You can sit down.Even if the root is damaged, the plants will still gradually recover. Not only transplant the bush that has just begun to turn black, but also cut it to healthy wood.

Good day. In November, they gave me a rose in a pot. To better adapt, I immediately cut flowers and buds. We survived the winter almost normally, except for a small fall of leaves. In the spring I planted all the bushes in my pots (there were 4 bushes), everything started fine, overgrown with new leaves. With the beginning of the heat, I brought the roses out into the street, and then the problems began. It seems to have fluffed up well, picked up the buds, began to bloom ... and threw off all the leaves! I decided that it might be because of the heat above +30 and because they were standing in the sun (they were in the sun at noon). She removed it in the shade, again overgrown with new leaves and again dropped it bald! I don’t understand what is happening to them? I sprinkled with Aktara, bathed periodically in warm water from ticks, I don't see pests on the leaves - I looked with a magnifying glass ... How can I help them?

Shedding the leaves, your rose falls into a dormant period - it clearly lacks the strength to develop and bloom normally. Start feeding her every 7 to 10 days with full mineral fertilizer. Buy Epin (it restores plants well after stress), spray it once a week with a solution of 5 drops per glass of water.

She bloomed, the flowers are large enough, beautiful. I fertilize regularly, every 2 weeks. Since the beginning of spring I have used Gumi, Bud, then Agricola. Maybe after 2 weeks too rarely? But besides these roses, there are also Angel Wings roses. These grow and bloom constantly, although they are tiny and the care for them is the same.

Different varieties may react differently to the same conditions.

Now the roses are alive, but completely without leaves. Can they be fertilized in this state? Or is Epin enough?

Can. Epin and fertilizers are not only compatible, but also complement each other perfectly.

Hello! The husband gave a rose, some of the leaves are shriveled and there are dark spots. Please tell me how to save her? This is my first rose

In this case, it is necessary to treat the leaves with Topaz, and shed the earth with Phytosparin. And then create optimal conditions for the rose: put in a cool, sunny place, water as the top layer of the earth dries out, but do not overflow or overdry. Cut and observe in time: it is often very difficult for roses to get used to room conditions. But anything is possible! If anything, ask!

thanks for the article about roses bought in pots, everything is clear.

Good afternoon) thanks for the detailed article) after flowering, the tips of the leaves began to dry out and for some reason reddish leaves grow from the cut trunk .. do not tell me what this can mean?

Reddish young leaves are an absolutely natural phenomenon for many varieties of roses. But the fact that the tips of the leaves dry out speaks of unfavorable conditions. Thus, the plant can react to dry air, to a lack of watering or an excess of fertilizer.

Hello.
In the yard in October, as you know, you need to prepare the plant for wintering, cutting off the buds, the question is brewing since the flower has appeared recently, what should be done first?
let it get used to and then cut the buds and transplant, or vice versa?
cut ONLY the buds?

If the rose has just moved to your home, then first of all it needs to be examined for pests, removed fallen leaves, cut off the blackened branches (if any). As a prophylaxis against a tick, it would be good to arrange a warm shower for the plant, treat the rest of the enemies with ankara or fitoverm.
I wouldn't cut the buds, but I let the rose bloom. The rest period will shift a little, but this is not scary. But in winter, she will enter naturally.
In order for the plant to "gather" for the winter, gradually lower the temperature in the room where it is located, to + 4-6 ° C. And when the rose fades and begins to shed its leaves, cut it off and give it a rest period.

Good day.An excellent article, I think a little later it will be extremely useful to me. But today ... I really need advice. Present now, in January, a rose, but it is blooming at the moment quite well and it also has buds. Crazy eyes, but, to be honest, I'm at a loss. Please advise what kind of care to provide for her, so that later she will enter her normal regime (well, or at least close to normal). Or not worry once again and carry out standard plant care procedures? I will be very grateful.

The most important thing is to provide it with high humidity. Watering by immersing the pot in water. At the first sign of illness - urgent treatment. Periodically hot showers (or rather, at the first signs of wilting). And close attention for two weeks! If nothing happens during this time, it will live.

Thank you for the article very useful. I have unfortunately a deplorable experience in growing a room rose. Several times I bought seemingly strong, healthy plants, and at home the roses wither and disappeared before our eyes. It's bad that I haven't read your article before, maybe I could save my girls. Thank you again for such a useful article.

Thank you for the article! Please help with advice! In November, I bought cuttings of rooted roses, one with brown spots on the leaves, I treated all three with Celandine and soon three times with an interval of 10 days. In February, I transferred it into pots with purchased soil for roses. Since March, I fertilize once a week with a half dose. But they grow so poorly, the leaves are crumpled red, some sort of, one bush stands with pale leaves and dark veins. The window is sunny, watering regularly, the animals are not seen .. What could be?

The dark red color of the leaves is found in varietal roses. The unsatisfactory growth of leaves in this period of time is most likely associated with a short day - it is too early for the plants to grow intensively.

Prompt the rose began to disappear, the leaves began to crumble and dry, dropped all the buds. After reading your article, I corrected a couple of mistakes - it was to fill the pallet with water and presented it to the sun, cut it off, removed the dry sheets, but today I noticed a cobweb near the leaves, what can be done with this and won't this web hurt it? I would send a photo but there is no such function.

This is a spider mite that needs to be dealt with urgently. Here on the site there is an article about this pest and methods of dealing with it. https://www.botanichka.ru/article/spider_mites/

Oksana, can you tell me if it is possible to plant a patio rose at home. It is grafted like tea-hybrid on a rose hip

I must disappoint you: you can experiment, but roses are still not intended for home - they are better off outdoors.

Hello! They gave me a rose in January, they didn't process or feed me anything, only watering. Today I took off the last bud, they bloomed beautifully, and the leaves are good so far, there are four bushes in the pot. Tell me what to do next, she's my first!

Good afternoon, Evgenia! It is good that the rose has adapted well (without outside help) and has fully bloomed. Now it can be carefully planted so that each plant has its own pot. And continue to look after.

I was presented with a cordan rose at the end of January. They say they don't bloom in winter, but they gave me a flowering bush. The second week has gone. The flowers have withered, the leaves have turned yellow. As I understand it, there is an adaptation. In addition to watering, I did not fertilize with anything. Tell me what are my next steps? I am afraid that she will die ...

Good afternoon, Ksenia! It needs to be inspected for the presence of a tick, if it is etched, otherwise the whole will dry out at one moment. Trim and plant in pots. Put it on the sunniest place, or better, of course, apply additional lighting. If it is not possible to add additional lighting, put it in a cool place so that it does not start growing. Do not overfill. Start feeding in March.

I don’t understand, but is it still necessary to cut it off now or not? And tell me now, after flowering, is it in a dormant stage, or can it bloom again now? And does it need to be fed?

one.Cut off, if any, dried buds and faded heads, excess (violating decorative), dry (if any) twigs.
2. Transplant each rose into its own pot of fresh substrate.
3. Place the plants in a bright (sunny) place with a moderate temperature (about 15 ° C).
4. Observe moderate watering.
5. A little later it will be possible to start feeding (buy special fertilizers in a flower shop).
6. Carefully (regularly) inspect plants for pests (especially spider mites) and diseases.

Hello! Do not tell me what happened to the rose, at first the upper leaves brightened very much, except for the veins, I sprayed it a couple of times with ferovite, I fertilize ud. For roses once a week in a half dose, like new good leaves have grown, though with a thin red border left. And now the bottom began to turn yellow, but starting with the veins. There are no animals. And the tea rose does not grow at all since November, young leaves dry out right in the axils.

Hello
At first he planted a rose by a larger pot, but did not share it, so three roots grew together. For two years she grew up and didn’t get sick. I only watered with fertilizers. And then she began to feel bad. And in August of last year I transplanted, again all together, on the street. The rose bloomed well over the winter. No buds yet. As I understand they need to be seated. Tell us how to take care of them on the street, they fit into the flower bed very well and recovered ...
Thank you

Good afternoon, Vasily! On the street, a room rose needs to be looked after in the same way as for a street one. In fact, this flower is street, just some varieties can put up with life in indoor conditions, so they are sold as indoor.
The fact that you have three roses of the same sort is very good! Best of all, roses look in flower beds in groups of plants of the same variety.
All roses belong to a group, but if you had indoor roses, then most likely these are low, not very bushy roses. They need to be seated at a distance of 50 cm from each other.
It would be good to lay a stock of fertilizers (NPK, rotted manure) in the planting pits - roses are responsive for feeding. But between the roots and fertilizers, it is necessary to put a layer of earth so as not to scorch the roots.
Further: pruning (when planting, we cut the roses to a height of 20 cm, then we cut off the faded buds, or, depending on the variety, we carry out stimulating pruning), watering, feeding.

Thanks a lot for the article.
She turned out to be extremely useful. Today I will go for the necessary

Oksana, good day! This is not the first time I see your article, but I read all the comments only today. Seeing your answers to all the questions, I was pleasantly surprised, it deserves praise ?? You are great.
Now about my roses, I bought today a premium dinica rose (pink (with aroma)) and a star mix rose (red). In a pot of 4 pieces, I don't want to plant separately, I want a lush bush of these varieties (in the future this can become a problem?). Now they are blooming and I plan to let them bloom. They are in quarantine (from the rest of the plants in another room). Has the treatment from pests already taken into account how and when to send roses for a warm shower?
Lighting is my sore subject: the window where I would like to be located is east, from dawn to 12 there is the sun. Is such a window suitable or should I darken it? For the winter period I plan to move it 2 meters from the window, but! With the usual lighting hours until 10 pm ... Point out my mistakes, tell me how to grow them at home (I really want to, but I still can't). Thank you for your answer?

Thank you, Katerina!
1. If everything is in order with the roses - right, let them bloom.
2. Roses are not afraid of the light - they are, whatever one may say, street plants and on the street they prefer open areas. Therefore, there is no need to shade the window. In general, oriental windows are ideal for roses. Sun from dawn to 12 noon is a very good option.
3. Since roses are planned to be grown in a pot, you will control their growth by pruning.However, over time, they will still become cramped in one pot, and the struggle for food will be higher than if each plant grew in a separate pot. It is for this reason that they are recommended to be seated in different containers.
4. A warm shower (1 - 2 times a month) is a good prophylaxis against many diseases and, in particular, against spider mites (it is easier to prevent than to cure). Another good method of invigorating roses is a hot (namely hot) shower. But also not often, one or two times a month is enough, and after a shower, do not expose the plants to a draft.
A warm shower can be used to treat the entire plant at once. Hot, a little differently: first, water the earth, let it be saturated with moisture. Then sprinkle the plant itself with hot water (from 50 to 70 C - at any risk). And let them stand in the bathroom, in a humid environment, you can leave it until morning.
5. Roses love fresh air - if possible, they can be taken out to the balcony, if not, ventilate the room more often.
6. In winter, it is not necessary to remove them from the sun, but it is good to arrange a dormant period with temperatures lowering to +5 C.
7. In summer, on hot days, roses must be sprayed with settled water.
And constantly watch the plants. At the first signs of ill health, immediately look for the cause and fight it, not start the deterioration of the condition.

Good day! Thanks for the article, I recently bought 4 roses in one pot, transplanted them, one could not bear it, but the rest are growing. They all had small dark green leaves, now long branches with large light green leaves began to appear, the old buds dried up and did not open, but a new one appeared, but small and only one ((((please tell me if you need to cut long shoots and how to make more big and beautiful buds appear?

I understand that the shoots are elongated (they grow long, with wide internodes). If so, this is a sign of a lack of light. It is correct that each new shoot develops moderately and has a flower bud at the end (or several, depending on the variety). What to do? Expose to the sun, cut off the shoots and wait. Roses, in order for them to bloom profusely in a pot culture, must be properly (and in a timely manner) formed (by pruning), watered and fed on time.

Hello! Please help with advice. A month and a half ago, they gave a rose to Cordana, she first dropped half of the leaves and almost all the buds that remained, and the remaining ones faded and I transplanted it,
and having washed the roots, planted them in different pots. For the first 10 days, they slowly shed the leaves, watering was moderate, sprayed, stand in a sunny place, but not in direct sunlight. Then a spider mite attached itself, washed the roses and processed Fufanon-nova (nothing else found in stores), and placed under the bag overnight. As a result, all the leaves crumbled, there are now bare twigs, on some they began to dry out. Today is the 15th day after the transplant, is it possible to save?

Good afternoon, Elya! How does your rose feel? In theory, she should be alive, she just reacted by dumping foliage to several stressful experiences at once. If some of the branches are dry, cut them off and continue caring for the plant. You can stimulate the rose with epin. It is a good anti-stress that helps plants recover from stress.

Good afternoon, Oksana! Thank you very much for the article - it is perhaps the most comprehensive I have read. And yet, like a novice rose grower))), questions remained. I never thought I'd contact roses. But I could not pass by the pots with cute Patios, Star Heats and some other miniatures without a name. It was love at first sight, and, moreover, mutual))) Roses started to grow, pleased me with flowers. It's mid-October now, and they, especially the Patio, are in buds and flowers. All summer I kept them in pots outside. Now I brought it into the house. But, seeing how they grow quickly, I decided to plant them in the ground next year.Moreover, the collection grows with each trip to the garden center. There are two questions: how to create favorable conditions at home until spring, if we are talking about a country house where there is a floor on which the whole winter is about 10 degrees and can they be transplanted into open ground in spring if they have been growing in pots for so long? Thank you so much!

Good afternoon, Olga! The fact that roses in buds and flowers are quite normal, in our south they usually bloom until the end of October, in the open field. Let them bloom. And when the flowering is over, bring them to winter. In late fall, start reducing watering, allowing the topsoil to dry out. And then cut the bushes 5 buds away from the ground. Further - the temperature regime is + 10C and all the same moderate watering. In February, bring the roses out of hibernation, and when the weather is good, transfer them from the pot to the flower bed.

I do not know if it is clear from my address, but we are in St. Petersburg.

Good day! I bought a rose of Cordana, three weeks ago. For two weeks she delighted me with her flowering, and 4 days ago she began to dry, watered enough, today she cut off all the dried branches, three or four centimeters stick out of the ground. What needs to be done to revive the plant?

Have you examined the plant for spider mites?

Yes, Oksana, the plant was healthy

I go. I'm thinking. But nevertheless, the signs are the same as in the case of a spider mite defeat, you might not notice small cobwebs. I would do the treatment with phytoverm and cover the pot for a day with a plastic bag. Then she put the rose in a cooler place and monitored not only the moisture of the earth in the pot, but also the surrounding air. And to support the plant, you can use Epin. This is a very good biostimulant.

Hello! In early September, I was presented with a cordana rose, four bushes in one pot. After two weeks, the buds began to wither and the leaves began to fall off. I cut it off, leaving 6-7 centimeters. I decided that she went into hibernation. Watered very rarely. For almost a month there have been no changes, the bushes look dried up. How do you know if a plant is alive or gone? Can you somehow save him?

Good afternoon, Lilia! Cut off some of the shoot and look at the cut - alive or dry. Or, pick off the bark: if there is a green layer (cambium) under it, the roses are still alive. If the roses have dried up, they can no longer be saved. If you are still alive, you can try to process it with epin.

Thank you, Oksana, for your answer. I cut it off, everything was dry under the bark. I regret that as soon as I began to shed the leaves, I did not process it with anything :(

Oksana, good afternoon. Tell the delitant, I'm dealing with indoor roses for the first time. Now it is October, the rose was recently bought, 2 weeks have passed, all the necessary procedures like transshipment and spraying with epin, cutting the buds ... I did everything, the rose gave very small shoots and after that it stopped growing ... I noticed that the leaves turn yellow ... maybe the rose enters dormancy , I don’t know what to think and what to do ... there are no ticks ... in any case, it is not visible ... and I am also worried about the second question, everyone writes that they need a rest regime, that they do pruning in October and the rose sleeps until spring at low temperatures ... what to do if the temperature is room temperature and I cannot lower it.

Good afternoon, Olesya! Yellowing of leaves can also be a reaction to heating (dry air). Wintering may not be arranged if there is absolutely no possibility at all. Then you can spray the plants with epin, since they turn yellow, and think over additional lighting, since the rose will need good lighting for 15 hours a day. But the heat from the lamp should not reach the roses, be sure to check with your hand. In this case, we take care of the plants as in summer. If it is possible to make a backlight, then feeding - once a month, if not - then in winter, until the end of February, we do not feed, plus we reduce watering (this is a dormant period), remove spraying, observe the purity of pests and at least sometimes supplement them with a regular lamp ...

Oksana, good afternoon.
Thank you for your recommendations, I will stick to it until spring. Do you need to prune the rose?)

If you arrange a dormant period, then you need 1/3, if not, then as needed: weak branches and those that grow inside the bush.

Good day. I cut and transplanted my roses in pots. Prepared for winter. But there were small, yellow leaves. The tips of the leaves darken, then dry out. Some leaves are lethargic. Maybe you need to feed them with something? Please tell me how and what (from which company) to heal, feed?

Symptoms are similar to overflow. Here it is not the nutrition that needs to be corrected, but the moisture of the soil. The roots seem to be rotting. Turn the pot over, remove the rose along with the soil and examine for rotten roots. If there is, remove the rotten, sprinkle with crushed coal. Feed with Zircon - this is a good anti-stress with a fairly quick action.

Thanks for your reply. She took a rose out of the pot, divided the roots (4 cuttings were planted in the pot), shook off rot from the ground, but there were warts and growths on the roots. I would send a photo, but it is impossible to attach. What are these growths. Should I process them the same way as you wrote? I don't have pure charcoal. There is a root and a rooting agent with charcoal. This is my first experience. I didn't have roses before.

similar pictures on the Internet, root damage by nematodes is written

If there are nodules, and the plant already feels so bad, then it means that it has been sick for a long time. From experience, it is easier to throw away roses affected by nematode. But there is information that you can try to treat with anthelmintic drugs. For example, Decaris. If the roses have healthy twigs, I would recommend cutting them into cuttings and rooting them.
I didn't want to upset you, but what is ... You can upload photos on the forum, create a new Temka with a question and attach them.

Thank you for your consultation. Very informative forum.

Hello!
I bought today a cordana rose (small buds). There are still buds (there are a lot of them), healthy, lush.
I put it in a well-lit place, tell me when to transplant and cut it?
Is it worth cleaning on a glazed balcony for the winter? And how to water it on the balcony in winter? This is my first rose.

If the plant is completely healthy, you can let it bloom, and only then make the necessary manipulations. In particular, transplant and prune. Now it would be good for the rose to arrange a warm shower (as a prophylaxis against the mite). Can be etched with phytoverm and actara. And when the flowering ends, plant all the roses (they are usually in a pot of 4 pieces) in different pots. Plants can be sent for wintering (if possible), or they can not be sent. But if you do not send, then it would be good for them to arrange additional lighting. If you send, then how the flowering will decline, it is necessary to begin to reduce watering and lower the temperature to + 5-6 C. You will need to think about pruning in the spring.

Good evening! Gave a Patio rose (the label is the Netherlands). Huge flowers and a lot of buds, but after I removed the packaging, I found that there were a lot of dry twigs and leaves. The buds and the flowers themselves were in perfect order. A round black spider 2mm in size was found in the center, the most curious thing is that when removing the packaging it was in the center of the pot, on the ground, and when it was placed on the table, it ran from the outside of the pot. I killed it with my fingers, it seemed like it didn’t look like a spider mite, it’s too big ... ... I looked at the leaves for a long time, even under a magnifying glass ... like nothing, although there were suspicions of some leaves ... Unfortunately, I did not read your article when I did the following: cut off all the buds, flowers, leaves (there were many bad, dry, withered ones). The result is the bare stems of four bushes. Above the bathroom, I pissed all the stems with a warm humigel, after 5 days I will repeat it again with the humigel. I put two ISKRA GOLDEN tablets. Interested in: do a transshipment or rinse the roots from the chemistry of the purchased land of the rose (I read for a long time that Dutch roses are stuffed with chemistry when they come to us, perhaps I am mistaken)? Thanks if you take the time to answer.

Good day! Since you have dealt with them closely))) immediately plant the bushes in different pots (usually they are sold several in one pot), just add fresh soil.

Good evening! Thank you very much for the article! If possible, please reply to my comment! Today my husband brought home roses "cordana mix". There are 4 of them in a pot. Outwardly, the flower looks healthy, a lot of buds and light green shoots. These are the first roses in my life, I really want to keep them.
1. What to do next with the plant?
2. Many people write that flowers and buds need to be cut off so that the power goes to the roots. Do you need it? It’s a pity to cut off such beauty!
3. Also, in various articles, opinions differ as to when to transplant a rose: immediately after purchase, or let it get used to the climate for 1-2 weeks, and only then transplant?
4. It's winter already, do I need to send my plant to hibernation? Or let him grow stronger in a new place, and only then see him off to rest?
5. Regarding transplanting: is it necessary to separate 4 plants into different pots? Or can you leave it with a bouquet?

Good day! In fact, there are a lot of tips and only you can choose!)))
1. I would carefully examine the roses and, if pests and signs of disease are not observed, I would let them bloom calmly - for this reason they were bought! Just create conditions for them, admire and observe (at the first sign of sickness, you need to take action!).
2. Nobody sends artificial roses for wintering either. They can generally be illuminated and not tormented by a dormant period if there are no suitable conditions. Or, send to a cooler place when they bloom and begin to show signs of the need for rest - shedding foliage.
3. But it makes sense to transplant over time into different pots. Plants will grow and lack food.

Good evening, tell me, please, how to prepare the roses for wintering on the balcony, how to hide them there? The apartment is hot and it is impossible to create a cool temperature for them and the north side. I have 4 pieces in a pot, before hibernation from planting? I wanted to keep it until spring to plant it in the country, in which month is it better to do this?

Good afternoon, Victoria! Since you are going to plant them in the ground, you should not plant them in different pots now, in the spring and plant them in a permanent place. For wintering, roses are prepared as follows: reduce watering to 1-2 times a week, if the leaves do not fall off themselves, remove partially, gradually reduce the temperature until you bring it to 8-10 C. And to the balcony. If the balcony is glazed, then most likely the temperature on it will not drop to critically low rates. If not, the roses can be covered with a cardboard box, covering non-woven fabric. A staircase can become a better place than a non-glazed balcony (if you are not afraid that someone will steal a flower). Occasionally in winter, but watering is needed, closer to spring and ventilation. In the spring, transplanting into open ground depends on the weather conditions in your area. We've had it since mid-March.

Good day. Oksana! Please tell me how to bring roses out of dormancy if they spent the winter in a country house at a temperature of +5? Some look dry, some are green. And some of the leaves have already appeared. Although here, in St. Petersburg, winter is in full swing. Roses I have - Patio, Mix and Cardana. I want to transplant them in the open ground in the spring.
Thank you very much for the detailed forum!

Good afternoon, Olga! I understand that in winter they did not water at all? Drizzle them with cold water, in moderation. Slowly start raising the temperature to +15 C. Cut off, leaving 3-4 buds on each shoot. Begin to feed already, alternately, then organic, then mineral water. Place on the windowsill. Pay attention to the condition in order to respond to diseases or pests in time. Plus, it would be nice to rarely spray them. And don't forget to ventilate the room.

Good day! Can you please tell me if it is possible to transplant roses in April? My husband gave me an ordinary black pot, terrible! Roses seem to have adapted, new leaves began to grow. And another question is the earth with a white coating, as if mold, what to do?

Good afternoon, Maria! Yes, roses can be transplanted. Plaque on the ground can be mold (if soft) or mineral deposits (if dry). When replanting, remove it and add new soil. Subsequently water with settled water.

I bought a Cardan rose. When transplanting into another pot, I noticed some white small worms in the ground. We ran very fast. Then everyone climbed inside. What is it and how to fight?

It can be suckers (if jumping), if with a dark head - larvae of sciaris or nematodes - just white worms. You need to understand who it is and then decide on the measures of struggle. Take a closer look at them, better with a magnifying glass. The first two options are harmless, they settle in waterlogged soil. But the last one is more complicated.

These are white worms. Don't jump. What to do? What to water with? Maybe phytosporin?

If they are nematodes, bloating should be observed on the roots of the rose. And, if they are there, unfortunately, nothing can help the plant. It needs to be removed urgently (it is recommended to burn it). Do not reuse the land. Wash the pot with chemistry, treat with boiling water and also do not use for some time.

Good day!
I have a rose-cordana and a rose-mix. It took 1.5 months to transplant. roses have let out the first buds, do I need to pick them off? I feed them with soluble fertilizer, after. once I mixed potassium nitrate, and organic matter can I do this?
How often do you need to feed plants and fertilize the soil in indoor roses?
I was tortured with a winged midge and tried to transplant plants and water them. What should I do to make it disappear?
Thank you!

Good day, Natalia. Do not pick off the buds - let the roses bloom. You mixed fertilizers incorrectly, potassium nitrate cannot be mixed with organic matter. For a rose, it is good to alternate organic matter and mineral fertilizers every other time. It is recommended to feed her once every 10-14 days. You can see about midges here https://www.botanichka.ru/article/sciara/. The article describes a number of folk remedies. Or shed roses with Aktara.

Good day!
The cordana rose bush was transplanted into a separate pot. DOES NOT bloom, there are foliage, but also leaves look down. The roots are in order and there are no pests. how ?! Help !!

Good day, Natalia. This description is not sufficient to understand the problem. If the leaves do not hang like rags, but just small and thin light shoots, then perhaps this is just a lack of light. Wait a bit. Stimulate her with the same epin. If your spring is just beginning, then it will go away in the sun! If the leaves hang like rags, this is clearly a violation of the root system. Here you can try to pickle with a foundation ...

Hello! For the new year, my mother and I were presented with a mini-mix rose. After reading on the Internet, we then transplanted her. She felt good, fresh leaves grew. Now she began to dry terribly, shedding dried leaves ... Will she really die? We cannot understand what happened to her ((Tell me, please!

Good afternoon, Alexandra! Look for the reason urgently. Look for spider mites first. Very carefully! White dots, small cobwebs in the axils of leaves ... Here on the site you can read about him https://www.botanichka.ru/article/spider_mites/

Please tell me if the plants can be turned in different directions towards the light, if they are on a loggia, for uniform crown formation?

Good afternoon, Yana! If we are talking about roses, then - yes, it is advisable to turn them towards the light so that a uniformly developed bush is formed. If about other indoor plants, then depending on what, many do not like to be disturbed.

thanks for the answer! yes, it's about roses :)

Good day! I read all the comments, but could not figure out what to do in my situation. I bought a cordana rose about a month ago. Unknowingly, she did not process it with either epin or anything else. About two weeks ago, the rose dropped all the buds, incl. unblown. I cut off all wilted buds, did not touch the bushes. Now the rose partially sheds its leaves (not yellow, healthy in color, but slightly dry at the tip or wilted). Along with this, new young leaves grow. There are no signs of pests. There are 4 bushes in the pot, I want to plant them. It is now October, there is no way to send for the winter. Do I need to plant the bushes first, then treat with epin and reduce watering for the winter? Do the bushes need to be cut to the fifth bud? Do I need to feed now or after transplant? Or wait with feeding, transplanting until February?

Good afternoon, Juliana! Autumn is a good time for transplanting, especially since you will not send plants for wintering. I would plant them, cut them a little to reduce the load on the root (remove the weak and growing inside the bush). It is impossible to feed in the next two weeks - the root is restored after transplantation for two weeks. You can start feeding in a month, or even two, the earth will not have time to deplete so quickly. If it is possible to make a backlight, and the rose needs it during the winter months, at least periodically, then feeding can be done once a month. If there is no backlight, then we will not feed until the end of February. In addition, you need to reduce watering. And make sure that the temperature is not too high and the air is too dry.
Why has the rose dropped its buds and continues to shed green leaves? The reason may be a lack of light (buds), as well as an incorrect irrigation schedule, both too frequent watering, and too rare, or too high temperatures (above +16 C it is already hot). We water the rose in winter as the soil dries out and watch for pest damage!

Good day! Thanks for your advice! I tried to do everything according to your recommendation - unfortunately, it seems that the transplanted roses did not take root. Perhaps due to the strong interlacing of the roots of four bushes in one pot, she damaged them too much during transplantation, perhaps she did something else wrong. After the transplant, I made a greenhouse - on the trunk, closer to the root, after 3 days I found mold. The greenhouses are very small, but the bushes have turned black. I continue to water, but it seems already hopeless. I bought a second cordana rose. I cut off some of the buds after the purchase, and left some of them, I really wanted to enjoy the flowering. I followed the regularity of watering, sprayed more often. The remaining buds bloomed to the end, but after that the rose shed its leaves again (the leaves gradually dried out without turning yellow, despite watering and spraying). Now there are only green twigs, I don't know what to do with them. There is no balcony, on the windowsill about +20, I'm afraid to transplant. Maybe the rose is not my flower? Still, I really want to make friends with them.

Good afternoon, Juliana! Do not despair! The rose is actually a tricky indoor plant. When transplanting, you can and well use the root, you also need to take epin, zircon on a note. The fact that the branches are alive is good, they will most likely stand up and then wake up (I also had it). While the rose is without leaves, it needs moderate watering, a bright sun. It is imperative to observe that there is no spider mite on the plant - he loves a rose very much.

Oksana, hello! I bought a rose in the summer, acted according to your instructions, the adaptation went well. The flower lived on the loggia, the autumn was very warm, so I did not bring it into the apartment. In October, there was only one flower left, I decided to plant a rose, after it became clear that each bush had taken root, I decided to cut it off for the winter (it was already the end of October) and leave it on the loggia (it is glazed). She cut off all the bushes, except for one, it bloomed.The temperature outside the window dropped, I reduced the watering, and then the rose decided to surprise me in the form of two new buds. In this connection, the question is: what should I do with them?)) The temperature on the loggia is still +5, the buds do not fall off, even slightly increase. Should you bring the rose into the room and let it bloom, or leave it as it is? Or cut off altogether? I'm afraid that if I bring her into the room now, it will be very stressful for her.
Thank you so much for the article and for the comments!

good day, Elena! I didn't bring mine into the house for the sake of a few buds. I just prepared for the winter with everyone else. You are right - it will be hard for them in the room - in addition to a sharp change in conditions, the plant also waits for dry air, which will not allow it to bloom normally (the heating is already on). Or it will be necessary to supplement the lighting and carefully look after. I would cut and send to winter rest with everyone else.

Thank you very much, I will! Tell me more, please, what is the lowest temperature the roses can withstand on the loggia? I am afraid that when the frosts begin, there will also be sub-zero temperatures. Maybe it's better to cover them with a box and insulate them a little?

Somewhere I met data that up to -3 C. So, it is better to warm it up a little.

Hello! I got a cordana rose) Since now it's winter time, I don't know where it will be better ?? On the loggia we have +5 degrees and it shows through, but in the room +25! The rose is blooming, I really want to survive! There is no experience in keeping plants, please tell me!

good day, Elena! Rose is a street plant. And of course, she will be better in conditions close to natural. I would let her take it away, but you need to observe not only the moisture of the earth, but also the air, and so that any pests (for example, a spider mite) do not get divorced, and then gradually cooled it down and put it on the loggia. + 5C is a very good option for a rose!

Thank you!) I looked through all the leaves with a magnifying glass and the roots - there seemed to be no pests) After, I arranged a warm shower. The recommendations for the rose say that you need to water it periodically from below! Or is it better as usual? I also wanted to ask you about the transplant) Probably it is worth doing it now at the beginning of spring? And about fertilizers, do I need to buy something at the moment?)

If you send them for the winter, it is better to transplant them in the spring and no fertilizers are needed!

Hello Oksana! Gave a cardan rose. There are 4 bushes in the pot, all with buds. Their height is about 20 cm. Can they be planted in March? How to choose the right pot for them? Thanks in advance!

Good afternoon, Svetlana! You can plant a rose in March. For transplanting, you will need pots with a volume of 1.5 - 2 liters. Ordinary plastic pots will do.

Hello Oksana. I have a problem with the cardan rose. First I bought it, then I began to read about leaving, in general one bush was black from the root and somewhere 2 cm to the top. I seated them all 4 pieces. As a result, one sick woman almost completely turned black, I threw her out. After a couple of days, in parallel with the first bush, I saw that the other 2 pieces were also turning black, both from the bottom and from the top (I cut them off when transplanting), I decided to throw it out too. And now my last bush also turns black but from the top, I cut it to green in the morning, but by the evening I see that it has turned black yet. What to do how to save. When transplanting, spilled and sprayed with phytosporin, after a couple of days with an incentive ... It did not help

Good afternoon, Christina! Honestly, from experience, I think nothing will help her - apparently the root system is completely affected.

Good afternoon, Oksana! Thanks for the article, but unfortunately I was late reading it. They gave us a Star Mix rose (blooming and in new buds) about a week ago. Foolishly, I decided to immediately transplant it into a new (larger in volume) pot. Now I notice the leaves drying up from below, one of the flowers and the edges of the other buds have also dried up. What is it? Incorrect transplant? Dry air? Stress? or has she already started preparing for the winter? Please tell me. My first rose. It will be a pity to lose it in such a short time.

Good afternoon, Ekaterina! The reasons for the sharp drying can be (very often) spider mites. There may be dry air (if the apartment is already heated, the plant is just very hot near the radiator). Or maybe, unfortunately, the rose is over-fertilized. In shops for a presentation, roses are "well" fed with various stimulants. We bring them home and just water them. The roots react to a different composition. Start by examining the subject of a spider mite - he loves roses very much and they just dry up in one moment. Make sure the area where the plant is standing is not hot. You can feed after transplant only after two weeks, when the roots take root. You can try feeding by leaves. In stores, fertilizers are sold in spray guns.

Today Rose has thrown off absolutely all the leaves, the dried buds are kept on bare stems. No pests were found. Moved to a room with cooler air. Cut the buds and wait for a miracle? Or is there nothing to help?

If it has turned black, then, unfortunately, most likely - everything. If not already, you can try cutting the branches to see how dry the fabric is. If you are still alive, cut the entire bush, leaving a few buds from the ground and see what happens.

Hello. Gave a rose to Cordan today. I don't understand colors at all. Help advice where to start? Do I need to handle something? And what are the next steps? There are 4 bushes in a plastic pot, do I need to transplant them?

Good afternoon, Elizabeth! Inspect for diseases and pests, rinse under warm water, treat against a spider mite - if it appears on the plant (and he loves roses very much), it will simply dry up at one moment. If the rose does not bloom, transfer it to a slightly larger pot. More details about adaptation can be found in the article above)).

Do I need to transplant it into another pot? And is it worth replanting each bush separately? (there are 4 of them)

Yes, you need to take a larger pot and it is better to plant the roses in separate pots so that they have the opportunity to develop.

Is it better to transplant now or give time for adaptation? A week after the acquisition, the lower level of the leaves turned yellow and the roses lost their usual appearance

Better right away, because after transplanting the plant also experiences stress. But in separate pots he has more food, more ventilation, more sun - which means it is easier for him to recover.

Oksana, good afternoon!
My roses are almost 3 years old, once, at the very beginning, your advice helped a lot, and now I have to ask for help again ((
The winter was warm and humid, the roses, as usual, wintered on the loggia. And, probably, due to the humidity, by the spring, when I brought them into the apartment, midges appeared in the soil. I transplanted the roses three times, and it seemed like I managed to get rid of them, but some kind of attack fell again. The leaves began to dry around the edges. Roses massively release new leaves, after a while they become covered as if with some kind of pimples and begin to turn black and dry. I thought of the spider mite as the most frequent pest, treated it with phytoverm, but it seemed to make it even worse. They are in this state all summer long, they bloom very poorly, I break off the dried leaves, they release new ones, and the same thing repeats. In some, the stems begin to turn black, one rosette has died like that. I do not know how to help them, so I am asking for help and advice.
I apologize for the long text. And many thanks for your time.

good day, Elena! It is difficult to diagnose this problem, but there is a problem, and apparently there is something with the root. In this case, I could advise to plant the plants in the ground so that they can come to their senses, it usually helps. If this is not possible, you need to help them get stronger for the winter, feed them with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. And look if there are earthworms in the pots - this can be seen on the surface of the soil, there should be balls of earth and holes on it, if there are worms.Worms eat the roots of plants once they get into the pot, which greatly oppresses them. Perhaps this happened in this case as well.

Good day! Forgive me if I repeat myself, it takes a very long time to read all the comments.
In the summer I bought a Cordan rose, loaded it into a slightly larger pot (all four bushes), watered it with root. She threw off the buds as expected, released new ones. Now it has completely faded. Stands on the balcony (glazed, but cold). Over the summer, I was very stretched out (apparently I was looking for light ... although in the summer it seems to be enough). The question is: should it be cut and by how much? Will the rose shed all the leaves for the winter, or should something remain?
Should I be seated? Or is it better in the spring?
Will she freeze on the balcony in winter? (it's cold there) At home I can only put on a window, under which, of course, there is a battery…. Additional lighting is also a problem. In general, how to prepare a rose for winter and how to properly care for it in winter? When to start waking her up?)
Thank you in advance!

Good afternoon, Daria! The rose may not have shed all the leaves, this is normal. You can cut it for the winter, or better in the spring. And you can plant it now, but you can also in the spring. (I would have left all the procedures for the spring). On the balcony, if you live in warm regions, it will not freeze; if in cold regions, it can. If you are not sure, you can put it not on the balcony, but, for example, on the window in the entrance. In order to help her enter the dormant period in November, watering is slowly reduced to 1-2 times a week and sent to a cool place (recommended temperature + 5-8 ° C) until February. In February, they act in the reverse order - they are slowly moved to a warm place, they begin to water, or they leave it on the balcony, they give the opportunity to wake up in accordance with the weather.

We live in Pskov, it will be cool on the balcony (
And how far should the rose be cut? (Or how much should you leave?)
If I cut it off in the spring at what time is it better to do it? She will hardly rest with me, I will put it at home on the window.

Good afternoon, Daria! If you do not plan to organize a cold wintering for the rose, then you need to slightly shorten its shoots and put it on the coolest, lightest window sill. Spray the plants every day (for prophylaxis against spider mites). Better to light up. In the spring, at the end of February, in March, it can be trimmed.

Good day! I read an article about adapting indoor roses, but I got even more confused. A week ago I bought a cordana rose - a lot of unblown buds, lush greenery. For 6 days it stood unchanged, but yesterday the buds and flowers began to dry, I cut them off immediately, but now I see that some of the leaves are turning yellow and crumbling. Examined, there are no pests. Can you please tell me what actions to take next? At first I wanted to plant a rose - now there are 4 roots in one pot, and send it to the glazed balcony during the winter, because now the room is very warm (they gave it heating). But now I am afraid to replant - I am afraid that the rose will not stand and completely crumble and die.

Good afternoon, Anastasia! Judging by the signs, this is either rotting of the root system, for a spider mite (you cannot immediately see it without experience). Planting is just what you need to preserve at least one plant. You will transplant, carefully inspect the roots, if there are rotten ones, remove them, and only then plant them in a new substrate. Just in case, from spider mites, at least rinse the plants with warm water. If they feel really bad, plant them in open ground, if possible, at least something may survive (but this is if you have not yet snowed, as in some places).

Good day! Thanks for the answer! I'll try to transplant. Yesterday I took out a rose to the balcony (it was +14), it seems that fewer leaves turn yellow. But I am confused by dots and spots on the leaves, maybe there really is a tick - I asked this question on the forum about Mini-roses along with a photo

There is no opportunity to transplant into open ground, and I don’t want to - I bought a flower for the house.

Hello! I bought three cordana roses in early December in Leroy Merlin.They, as expected, dropped some of the leaves and I cut the flowers and buds to the first five-leafed leaf and transplanted them into slightly larger pots. In each of the three pots, unfortunately, one rose has disappeared. I poured it with zircon. They are standing on the windowsill, screwed on the battery and bought phytolamps. They went into growth and released buds, and one has already bloomed with the first long-awaited flower, but it is much smaller than when you bought it. The leaves are also not as dense as when buying, but the buds are swollen, I hope that new branches and leaves will appear soon. I have a question about the size of the flowers - why did they become so small and what to do to make them larger? Thank you!

Good afternoon, Irina! They can be smaller for various reasons - a different feeding mode, a different lighting mode. If they are planted in the ground in the spring or placed on a balcony in the sun and fed, they will most likely recover in size.

Hello, in February I planted roses in a 5 liter bottle for overexposure, now they began to pick up buds, what should I do now? Can they then be transplanted into open ground? Please tell me.

Good afternoon, Ekaterina! Then, when the temperature becomes comfortable for planting, it will be possible to transplant it into open ground. Now they need to provide a moderate temperature so that they can develop as slowly as possible. And as much light as possible, it is better to make additional lighting so that they do not stretch out.



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