Not all gardeners love remontant strawberries, but they certainly have a number of advantages. Most remontants find it difficult to compete in the quality of berries with ordinary varieties, but recently strawberries have appeared, according to most indicators, very good. One of the best, and in the opinion of a number of experts and simply the best, is the Garland variety. It is good for both the taste of berries and the yield.
The strawberry variety Garland is quite young, appeared at the beginning of this century as a result of the work of the team of the RSAU im. K. A. Timiryazev under the guidance of Professor G. F. Govorova. Most of the varieties bred by Galina Fedorovna are distinguished by high disease resistance and resistance to unfavorable climatic factors. The repairing strawberry Garland is registered in the State Register of Breeding Achievements of the Russian Federation in 2012, and is allowed to grow in all climatic regions without exception. True, in the coldest areas, greenhouse and even greenhouse cultivation of this strawberry is accepted.
The variety is early ripe, the first berries can be ready for consumption in May, this strawberry bears fruit until the frost. The bushes are spherical, up to 25 cm high, medium dense. The number of whiskers is moderate, they are medium in size, painted green with a pinkish tinge. Leaves are medium in size, smooth, blue-green in color, have strong pubescence. The flowers are medium-sized, bisexual, white. The height of multi-flowered inflorescences is at the level of the leaves. The type of bushes is decorative, which is often used for vertical cultivation of this variety of strawberries. To do this, use hanging boxes, pots or pots, arranging cascades of various shapes.
Garland is one of the popular varieties for growing in pots.
The berries are large, up to 4 cm in size, weighing about 30 g, conical in shape, without a neck. The size of the berries does not depend on the time of year: by autumn they do not become smaller. Colored red with a strong sheen. The pulp is light red, juicy, tender. The berries have a good dessert taste, a strong strawberry aroma, the assessment of the tasters is 4.1 points.
In field conditions, the total average yield exceeds 600 c / ha, which means approximately 1 kg from each bush. Fruiting is continuous, undulation is not expressed. At the same time, there are buds on the bushes, and opened flowers, and ovaries, and ripe berries. Winter hardiness and drought resistance at an average level. Disease resistance in normal weather years is high; in case of heavy rains, fungal diseases may occur.
Strawberries Garland have a not quite regular conical shape: at the top of the head, the cone is, as it were, elongated. They are quite large, but the ordinary red color does not give the impression of a very noble berry. Even shine does not help in this. However, the outward simplicity turns out to be quite deceiving: it turns out that among the remontant varieties of strawberries, the taste of Garland berries is very good.
The berries are of the usual appearance, nothing outstanding in either color or shape.
It is difficult to compare remontant strawberries Garland with ordinary varieties that bear fruit once a season. After all, these are fundamentally different types of plants. But among the varieties of continuous fruiting, it is considered one of the best. Its peculiarity can be considered that with a very high yield, it also differs in berries of a rather decent taste. It is also one of the most popular wall cultivars.
The main advantages of the Garland variety are:
The disadvantages of the variety are considered to be the low tolerance of dry weather and waterlogging, as a result of which the plants can get sick, and the berries become watery.
Currently, only about a dozen remontant varieties of large-fruited garden strawberries are included in the State Register of the Russian Federation, but many varieties, mainly of foreign origin, are grown by amateurs and without official registration. All registered varieties are approved for use in any climatic region, almost all are included in the list already in this century. Actually, not so long ago, remontant strawberries were completely unpopular, a certain change in the minds of gardeners occurred precisely with the appearance of varieties that bear fruit with rather tasty berries.
One of the oldest remontant varieties is Moscow delicacy. The variety is characterized by high frost and drought resistance, bears fruit with red berries of a sweet and sour taste, twice as small as those of Garlanda. Elizabeth 2 is a very good variety: its berries were rated by the tasters at 4.7 points. They are very large, fragrant, but the yield of the variety is half that of Garlanda. The taste of Koketka berries was estimated at 4.6 points, but its yield is even lower. The varieties of foreign origin Monterey and San Andreas are considered very good, but they are quite picky about the climate.
San Andreas is one of the currently fashionable varieties
Thus, the taste of Garland strawberries is not ideal, but it differs for the better from its analogues in the aggregate of all other indicators.
Strawberries of the Garland variety are considered dietary, their energy value is about 45 kcal / 100 g. Their use is universal. If we talk about growing on personal, including suburban, plots, then we are talking mainly about the use of fresh berries: usually in small gardens, no more than a dozen of remontant strawberry bushes are planted. However, this variety is also suitable for industrial cultivation, and there already the amount of harvest is sufficient for processing.
The berries of this strawberry are suitable for absolutely any harvest. They can be used to cook jams and compotes, a lot of juice is obtained from them, which can be used in winemaking, they are used to make marmalade, candied fruits and liqueurs. Frozen berries, when thawed in winter, have almost the same aroma as fresh ones in summer.
Strawberry liqueur - a gourmet drink
Since the Garland strawberry gives a sufficient number of whiskers, it can be propagated not only by seeds, as is often done in the case of remontant varieties, but also by more familiar methods: dividing the bush and whiskers. All three methods have approximately the same frequency of use. The seed method is more time consuming, but the seedlings are healthy, and the plantings are renewed reliably. When dividing the bush, which is very simple, the accumulated pathogens do not disappear anywhere. Propagating strawberries with a mustache is the easiest way, it is important to take the mustache from 2-3-year-old strong bushes after their natural rooting. The best rosettes are the first from the mother bush. They should be dug out with a clod of earth and immediately planted on a prepared bed. When buying seedlings, you should give preference to the potted version.
The mustache should be allowed to root well in the mother bed.
Seed propagation is also not as difficult as it seems: everyone who grows seedlings of vegetables can cope with strawberries. In late February - early March, the seeds are sown without sinking into the box, at the end of March, the seedlings dive into individual cups, and at the end of April they are planted in a permanent place. Strawberry bushes Garland are placed at least 30 cm apart. The variety grows on almost any soil, but prefers sandy loams and loams with a slightly acidic reaction of the environment, and best of all - chernozems fertilized with wood ash.
Caring for plantings in an ordinary garden bed does not differ from caring for other remontant varieties. In normal weather, water the strawberries 1-2 times a week. If it rains, watering is not needed, and in case of excessive moisture, the bed is even covered with a film during precipitation. They try to fertilize strawberries with organic compounds and ash. Before flowering, strawberries most of all need nitrogen, during the period of intense flowering in potassium, and during fruiting, no feeding is applied. In the fall, in preparation for winter, humus and ash are embedded in the garden bed. The soil is loosened often, but very superficially, mulching helps to fight weeds.
Normal fruiting begins in the next summer after planting, the maximum yield occurs in early August. At the end of the season, all damaged leaves are cut off, snow retention measures are taken. Strawberries winters well under the snow, but just in case, coniferous spruce branches are laid on the beds.
In cold regions, shelter will help before snow falls
When growing strawberries in pots, you can use a separate container for each bush (half a bucket in volume) or long boxes in which the bushes are planted every 25-30 cm. It is important to fill the containers with fertile soil (a 1: 1 mixture of humus and sod land is suitable) and not forget to put the drain on the bottom. In pot growing, the care is slightly different. So, it almost does not require loosening the soil, but you have to carefully monitor the moisture content of the soil: both drying and overflow are destructive for plants. Feeding should also be done carefully, using infusions of mullein or wood ash. Excess whiskers that violate the aesthetics of plants are cut off, the rest are allowed to hang down, forming elegant cascades.
Repair strawberry Garland is very popular due to its high yield and good taste of berries. Many amateurs consider it to be the best of modern remontant varieties in terms of the totality of indicators.
[Votes: 3 Average: 4.7]
It is difficult to find a garden plot that does not grow strawberries. Vegetable growers set aside at least a couple of beds for this tasty, sweet berry. Breeders have developed varieties, hybrids that can be easily grown even in areas with unfavorable climates. One of these territories is Siberia.
The article discusses how to choose a variety, tells about the best remontant, frost-resistant, large, musty-free varieties. A brief description of each is given. At the end of the article, there are reviews of Siberian vegetable growers.
Strawberry variety "Russian size" is a large-berry hybrid of garden strawberries. The period of abundant fruiting of the plant is very long and stops only in the first decade of October, when there is a steady decrease in temperatures at night.
Garden strawberries of the "Russian size" variety are characterized by very tasty berries with juicy and dense pulp. The weight of one berry, subject to the cultivation technology and care measures, can reach 48-50 g. The average diameter varies from 5 to 8 cm. Strawberries are bright red in color with an excellent dessert taste. Berry formation is very abundant and amicable throughout the growing season. The formation is insignificant.
Garden strawberries "Russian size" are very often grown using seed material, you can also cultivate it in seedlings. Sowing work to obtain high quality and strong strawberry seedlings should be carried out from mid-January to mid-March. Seeds should be carefully and evenly distributed over the surface of well-moistened fertile soil. Crops must be covered with glass or plastic wrap.
Subject to the optimal temperature regime of 18-22 ° C, massive shoots of garden strawberries appear no later than a month after sowing. Planting containers with seedlings must be regularly ventilated and irrigated with a spray bottle. The picking of grown seedlings at the phase of a pair of true leaves should be carried out in separate planting cassettes filled with a fertile soil mixture.
You can plant seedlings of garden strawberries if you have five true leaves.
Ali Baba's strawberry has the following advantages:
In the process of growing, gardeners noticed not only the excellent qualities of the variety, but also its disadvantages:
Experienced gardeners recommend paying attention to another relative disadvantage. This variety does not form a whisker, therefore, new plants can only be obtained by the seed method.
The minus is considered relative, because growing from seed seems difficult only at first glance. The technique allows you to get a lot of healthy and fruiting plants with minimal physical and material costs.
There is another way to reproduce garden strawberries - by dividing the bush, but it does not protect the resulting "young" from bacteria and viruses that the "parents" have. The procedure is carried out in early spring or autumn.
It is necessary to divide a large bush into several parts - so that each has 2-3 white healthy roots. The disadvantage of this method is that some of the plants may die.
Description of the plant:
Garden strawberry 'Venta' is a variety obtained at the Lithuanian Research Institute of Fruit and Vegetable Economy. The parents of the plant are ‘Zenga Zengana’ and ‘Festivalnaya’ varieties.
On state variety testing since 1981. Included in the state register in 1993 for the North-West (Yaroslavl Region), Central (Bryansk Region) and Volgo-Vyatka (Nizhny Novgorod Region) regions.
Size and shape of growth:
The bush is medium-sized, semi-spreading.
Flowers and fruits:
The berries of the garden strawberry 'Venta' are large, with an average weight of 12 g, blunt-conical in shape, and have a small neck.
The skin is dark red, smooth, shiny. Achenes are slightly impressed into the pulp, yellow. The pulp is dark red, dense, juicy, fragrant. The taste is sweet and sour, very good. Application is universal.
Early maturity, ripening time, productivity:
A variety of medium early ripening. Differs in high productivity.
The ‘Venta’ variety is not resistant to gray rot, weakly affected by powdery mildew.
Obtained by crossing Zenga-Zengana and Festivalnaya varieties at the Lithuanian Research Institute of Fruit and Vegetable Economy.Medium early ripening. unstable to gray rot, weakly affected by powdery mildew. The yield is high. Universal.
The bush is medium-sized, semi-spreading. The berries are large, with an average weight of 12 g, blunt-conical in shape with a small neck. The skin is dark red, smooth, shiny. Achenes are yellow, slightly impressed into the pulp. The pulp is dark red, dense, juicy, aromatic. The taste is sweet and sour, very good. Recommended for the Northwest region.
A modern strawberry variety should have the following set of characteristics.
- Powerful, upright, compact or semi-spreading bush, dense or medium leafy.
- The ability to form a mustache with rosettes is moderate.
- Peduncles are numerous, strong, resilient, not lodging, at or above the level of leaves.
- Inflorescences are compact, multi-flowered, umbrella type, raised above the leaves.
- Flowers are bisexual, self-fertile, blooming at the same time.
- Berries ripening at the same time, large (more than 25 g), even, symmetrical, conical shape with a pronounced neck, smooth, shiny.
- The stem comes off easily, the calyx separates freely from the berry.
- The peel of the berries is bright red, evenly colored, dense, achenes are few in number, slightly immersed in the pulp.
- The pulp is red, juicy, dense, aromatic. The taste is sweet and sour, harmonious.
- High technological qualities of berries, suitability for freezing, all types of processing.
- In addition, the varieties must be resistant to diseases and pests, damping, soaking, freezing, drought-resistant, fruitful, different ripening periods.
- Most of the existing varieties of garden strawberries are not sufficiently resistant to diseases and pests.
- Peduncles often lodged under the weight of berries, located below the level of the leaves.
- Berries ripen for a relatively long time, not equalized in weight, unevenly colored.
- The pulp of berries is often poorly colored, not firm enough.
- The fetus is difficult to separate from the fetus.
- Fruits are often asymmetrical, comb-shaped, with an uneven, ribbed surface.
- The skin of the berries is delicate, easily damaged when picking and caring for plants.
- Not all varieties have a harmonious full flavor.
Productivity: low (less than 6 t / ha) medium (6-9) above average (9-14) high (more than 14 t / ha).
Taste: mediocre, satisfactory, good, very good, excellent.
Aroma: absent, weak, medium, strong.
Juicy pulp: small, medium, high.
Direction of use: dessert, table, technical, universal.
It is of particular interest to gardeners. Its main distinguishing feature is the ability to lay flower buds at high temperatures and long daylight hours. The yield of the crop continues until late autumn. In culture, two types of remontant strawberries are common: small-fruited and large-fruited.
Currently, there are many varieties of small-fruited remontant strawberries with berries of various colors. Some of them form a mustache, others do not. In addition to nutritional value, remontant strawberries are highly decorative. Large-fruited remontant strawberries, unlike small-fruited strawberries, have two, or even three periods of fruiting. She gives the first harvest at the usual time, which coincides with the fruiting of early non-repaired varieties, the second - from August to frost.
With a great potential for remontant strawberries in the open field, only part of the crop has time to ripen. Most flowers and berries are ruined by autumn frosts. Plants do not have time to prepare for winter and often freeze out. It is possible to accelerate the development of remontant strawberries in protected ground. Repaired large-fruited strawberries are grown for one or two seasons, since in the future its yield decreases, the berries become smaller.
Strawberry-strawberry hybrids bred as a result of a large selection and genetic work - by crossing garden strawberries and Milan strawberries. All varieties are winter-hardy, not affected by powdery mildew, resistant to gray mold. Peduncles are located at the level of the bush or slightly below, stand upright even when the berries are fully ripe.
Among the many varieties of strawberries or garden strawberries, there are both domestically produced varieties and those with foreign roots. Since the 90s of the last century, numerous imported varieties, mainly from Holland, Spain and Italy, have filled the berry market and gained such popularity that often under their guise you can only find fakes that have nothing to do with the true varieties. But even many real varieties from Southern Europe and America are poorly adapted in their growing conditions to the Russian climate. At best, the yield obtained from them does not correspond to the declared characteristics. In the worst case, the plants simply freeze out or disappear for other reasons.
Strawberry seedlings from Japan, a country that is much closer to Russia in many climatic characteristics, behave somewhat differently. All over the world, it is the Japanese strawberry that is considered the largest-fruited, and, most importantly, having outstanding taste characteristics. After all, a large berry is rarely really sweet, and the varieties of Japanese selection have a really dessert taste.
Tsunaki's strawberries, a description of the variety and a photo of which you can find in the article, leaves mostly rave reviews about themselves. However, there are still not very many people who grew it, since this variety appeared in the vastness of Russia relatively recently. Many even believe that such a variety does not exist at all, as well as the varieties of Chamora Turusi, Kipcha, Kiss Nellis and others, presumably of Japanese breeding, similar to it.
It is worth starting a description of the Lydia Norwegian strawberry variety with interesting information about its main feature. Strawberry Lydia Norwegian is a remontant species that bears fruit from spring to autumn, forming fruit even on a loose and unrooted mustache. This variety is grown not only in the open field, but also in greenhouses, as well as in pots on the balcony.
They are always in demand. On an industrial scale, they are also most often grown, planting only one variety in a certain area. The fruits ripen approximately at the same time, which allows them to be harvested at the time when they are most suitable for long-term storage and transportation.
High-yielding, bears fruit from May to early winter.
High-yielding variety 'Albion' suitable for indoor use
It is characterized by large dark red conical berries. Due to its pronounced pleasant aroma and excellent taste, the variety is classified as the best. The maximum yield of strawberries of the garden variety 'Albion' can be obtained by cultivating them in greenhouse conditions.
The late high-yielding variety 'Zenga-Zengana' is also very common in Russia.
Late high-yielding variety 'Zenga-Zengana'
Extremely sensitive to gray mold and strawberry mites. The berries have a sour-sweet taste.
This is perhaps the highest-yielding strawberry variety of American origin, which has taken root well in our country.
'Honey' is a high-yielding variety of garden strawberries
Belongs to early varieties, resistant to cold weather, gray rot, not afraid of rainy weather. The berries are sweet and sour, with dense dark red flesh; it is better to pick them fully ripe. Most often used for industrial cultivation.
Tatiana, San Andreas has shown itself well - this is an improved, modernized albion, from the early clergy and honey they still keep the brand, I also like rem Pineapple, it is very tasty and is almost not affected by a tick, although it is prone to spotting, but if treated with phytosporin - phytopreparation, it is easily cured, but - in that the berry is tender, it is not suitable for the market, but those who buy the berry for themselves and for preserving jams and preserves come straight home, choosing this particular variety, since it tastes wild strawberries.
Try Florentina, we liked it better, softer than Albion and sweeter
And how to deal with beetle larvae in planting strawberries? When I see that the leaves are withering, I dig out a bush, and there are 4-5-6 pieces of larvae.
Strawberries in BOXSAND wall units
I grow strawberries in the usual way.
Maybe this recommendation will help you. Process features
Transplanting berries to a new place has a number of features that you need to know in order to do all the manipulations required in this situation correctly. The transplant itself can be done every two years. But some gardeners argue that this process is necessary when strawberries have been growing in one place for four years.
This is due to the fact that in the first year after planting, strawberry bushes will not produce a crop. At the same time, a good harvest should be expected for the next two years, and in the fourth year there is a drop in yield up to the complete absence of berries. Therefore, a site with old plants should be dug up, and young bushes should be transplanted to a new place. As a result of this process, you can get better quality planting material for new bushes.
To achieve a quality result, you must adhere to the following recommendations:
it is necessary to determine the optimal planting time (autumn or spring). Use a calendar for this
you need to use sockets from the most productive or large bushes. Up to 30 outlets can be assembled from one such bush. Remember that fruitful bushes rarely form a good mustache in large numbers.
before transplanting, the beds for new bushes should be watered with ammonia solution. This will help get rid of bugs like the May beetle and strawberry-loving wireworms.
transplant is carried out only on a cloudy day
wattle, on which rosettes have grown, must be cut
it is necessary to shake off the soil from the root system of young plants
you need to pinch the root a quarter
before direct transplanting, the roots of young plants should be dipped in a mixture of water, manure and clay
the best distance for transplanting is 25-30 cm (between plants) and 60-70 cm (between rows)
when watering outlets, it is recommended to cover them with paper
in August, the beds are loosened. As a result, you will improve the aeration of the soil, as well as reduce the loss of moisture.
for the winter, it is necessary to cover the transplanted outlets with straw.
Some gardeners recommend a two-line transplant. This method involves the location of two adjacent rows at a distance of 30 cm between each other. In this case, it is important to ensure that the point is not located above the soil level (preferably at the same level with it).
This process ends with watering the transplanted plants and sprinkling the soil with peat. It can be exchanged for sawdust or non-woven mulching material. The latter must be left in the beds for the winter. Not all gardeners, especially amateurs, are aware of such features of transplanting strawberries to a new place. Therefore, they do not always manage to achieve an excellent harvest from new bushes.
An important point in the process of transferring plants to a new place of growth is soil preparation. Properly prepared soil, regardless of whether a transplant will be carried out in the fall or in the spring, is the key to successful plant survival in a new place. Prepare the soil a few days before transferring the bushes. Soil preparation involves the following manipulations:
the entire area to which the transfer of new bushes is planned must be completely dug up
the land should be fertilized. To do this, a bucket of compost or humus should be added to one square meter. Fertilization of the soil with chicken droppings, wood ash or peat is allowed
after fertilizing the soil, it should be re-dug up and leveled
after that we mark the future beds.
At this stage, the preparation of the soil can be considered complete.
Many gardeners cannot give an exact answer; in spring or autumn, the process of transferring strawberries to a new place of growth should be carried out. Here people are divided into two groups in terms of how the calendar should be interpreted: respectively, those who transplant in the fall and those who do it in the spring. Let's take a look at each option in terms of pros and cons.
Transplanting strawberries in spring has the following benefits:
the soil is richer in moisture
the beds are less prone to ticks.
The disadvantages of this period include:
it is difficult to find time for work, since in the spring there are many other things to do in the garden
the harvest will appear only next year
the spring sun can "burn" the seedlings.
Still, most prefer to transfer plants to a new place in the fall. This process can begin even not in the fall itself, but already at the end of summer (August - the second half). The transplant can last until the first half of September. The calendar will help you navigate the time frame, since you can not pay much attention to the climatic conditions here.
Planting in the fall has the following advantages:
easier to choose the desired weather
more free time in autumn
the ability to annoy the bushes in the spring.
Among the disadvantages here is the possibility of early frost or freezing of young bushes.
Transplanting strawberry bushes consists of several stages:
in spring we choose good bushes
remove flowers from them
until autumn, plants only need to be watered
preparing a new site
in a new place we dig holes (diameter 15 cm). The distance between the bushes is about 40 cm
cut the "umbilical cord" of the sockets with garden shears
then carefully dig up young bushes
we transfer them to the dug holes
cover it with soil and water it. Watering should be moderate (twice a day)
loosening is carried out once every two weeks.
This algorithm is universal for all strawberry varieties. It is necessary to start the transplanting process in the spring (selection of material), and you will receive the first harvest only the next year.
By following our recommendations and using the calendar, you will be able to correctly transplant strawberries to a new place of growth. And confirmation of the correct execution of the algorithm will be a high-quality and abundant harvest of berries.
before transplanting, the beds for new bushes should be watered with ammonia solution. This will help get rid of bugs like the May beetle and strawberry-loving wireworms.
I would like to clarify: how much ammonium nitrate per bucket of water. And whether the roots of young strawberry seedlings will not burn out after planting on such a prepared soil.
Lyudmila is nonsense, a myth. Doesn't help, but only harms strawberries (strawberries)
Why are strawberries useful?
Everyone's favorite garden strawberry is distinguished by early maturity, an early harvest of tasty and healthy berries. Valuable properties make it possible to use it as a remedy for gastritis, kidney stones, liver, diabetes, gout, and anemia. Strawberries quench thirst, improve appetite and digestion. A good remedy for insomnia, hypertension, atherosclerosis, constipation. Delicious and very healthy - berry with milk!
Strawberry is a light-loving plant, bears little fruit in the shade. She is sensitive to lack of moisture. But waterlogging contributes to the growth of vegetative mass, and poor fruit formation. The older the plant, the lower its resistance to freezing.A layer of snow 20-30 cm will save the plants from freezing. In winters with little snow, it is imperative to protect the strawberries from freezing of the soil. This is a lover of fertile soil rich in humus. Prefers light loamy and sandy loamy - water and moisture permeable soils, neutral and slightly acidic soils.
Spring planting from late April to 15 May. Over the summer, I grow powerful bushes, which will give a good harvest next year.
Summer planting from August 1 to August 20 will give a moderate first harvest next year, and maximum in the second year of fruiting. Favorable conditions for planting - cool, cloudy, rainy weather, evening. Seedlings planted after September 1 are at risk!
Consider a two-row and square-nest fit.
Two-line (in two rows) planting provides strawberry bushes with good illumination, is convenient when leaving, watering, when feeding. With this scheme, strawberry bushes are planted in two rows - two lines. The distance between the rows is 30-35 cm, the distance between the plants is the same. Row spacing 60-70 cm. Adjacent beds are made in the same way. It is advisable to orient the beds in a north-south direction. And between the rows in the garden, make a groove for watering and feeding.
With a square-nested planting of the beds, the bushes are at a distance of 50 cm from each other, the nests are at a distance of 50 cm, in the nest there are 3 plants 9-10 cm from one another, arranged in a triangle.
An important point - do not bury the strawberry bush. The root collar should be at ground level, the kidney - the "heart" is open! After planting, water the beds at the rate of one bucket per ten bushes. Garden strawberries like regular watering, about one watering per week, depending on the weather.
Humus and mineral fertilizers are applied either when digging the beds, or in the hole when planting. The use of superphosphate for berry and fruit crops is necessary! This fertilizer stimulates good development of the root system, fruit buds and ensures a safe wintering. Phosphorus does not accumulate in plants, unlike nitrogen. One teaspoon of granular superphosphate per well is beneficial for the plant. Plant strawberry seedlings carefully, straighten the roots, compact the soil, watch the "heart" and mulch the soil with peat or humus.
With proper care, strawberries bear fruit for 5-6 years. Feed old plantings with urea, loosen the soil, remove old unnecessary bushes, leaving large young ones. If there was a tick on the site, treat the strawberries with actelik (1 ampoule per bucket of water), spray each bush, especially the middle of the outlet.
Caring for a new landing. A fresh planting of strawberries needs frequent watering. Water until a fresh leaf in the heart begins to open. The spring planting is sure to bloom. But it is better to remove the peduncles, because there will be no normal harvest, and on the contrary, this will give a good development to the plant. For summer planting, the peduncles are not removed for the next spring.
Caring for fruiting strawberries. In the spring, carry out moisture retention, gentle cleaning of the plantation from old, dead leaves. Weed and loosen crops regularly. Mulching retains moisture in the soil, protects against drying out and weeds. Remember that the roots of strawberries lie almost at the surface and deep water is inaccessible to it. Strawberries are watered often enough, but in small portions.
Strawberries are juicy, tender and overripe quickly. Waterlogging and pollution is a source of gray rot. To keep the berries clean, scatter straw or dried lawn grass under the bushes. Collect the berries in 2-3 days, do not overdo it.
This flower beetle lays eggs in the bud of strawberries, even before flowering, which gradually turn black and fall off. How to fight:
sprinkle the aisles in advance with sawdust moistened with creolin (1/2 bucket of sawdust with a spoonful of creolin)
there is an old folk remedy for pest control - mint tooth powder, it helps against ticks and weevils
you can spray the bush from all sides with mustard powder (a tablespoon of dry mustard in 1 liter of water) until the buds open. Repeat this treatment after each watering or rain. And another tip: do not take planting material from random people! Do not use chemical means of struggle, otherwise they, together with the ripe berry, will get into your mouth.
On fruiting bushes, from which you expect a harvest of berries, do not leave a mustache, remove them as early as possible, while they have not yet grown and have not taken away part of the food intended for ripening berries. For strawberry cultivation, it is better to create a separate master plantation.
The mother plantation is a site where all conditions are created for obtaining high-quality mustache of pure-bred zoned planting material.
So, strawberries reproduce vegetatively - by seedlings. Seedling is a rooted rosette in bushes. It is taken from healthy uterine bushes - no older than 2 years. Before rooting, the rosette is fed by the mother bush. The better the bushes are, the more they are able to form whiskers and rosettes. Large and well-developed rosettes are formed on the whiskers of annual and biennial plants. One mother plant in the second year of life can give from 70 to 100 rosettes. The highest quality planting material is obtained from the first two or three outlets.